Clutch/Starter Interlock Switch...
Has anyone had any problems with this switch in cold weather? I seem to so am thinking of putting in a bypass switch......... I THINK the switch is on the clutch linkage inside the cab? Seems to be some sort of gravity slide switch? Anyway, I think I should just be able to put a toggle type switch between the two wires on the switch? I know of the safety ramifications, hence the toggle switch, not just tying the wires directly together. Thoughts, suggestions?
TIA
R...
TIA
R...
Some people do this as a anti theft device. The switch is very obvious when you look at the clutch linkage.
Just be careful, hear stories all the time about people starting their rig from the ground and having the truck run away or run over them. These engines are strong enough that they have no problem starting in gear.
Just be careful, hear stories all the time about people starting their rig from the ground and having the truck run away or run over them. These engines are strong enough that they have no problem starting in gear.
Ricktye-
Yes I do have a simular problem. But after investigating i have made a discovery...The problem was NOT the switch tied in with the clutch, It was in the ignition itself. I bypassed the cluth switch with a pigtail. Then the very next day I still had the problem. I figured out if I turn the key "briskly ", I make contact in there EVERY time! Try it. (by the way, I removed the pigtail....I didn't want someone else starting the truck and going through a garage door!)
The funny thing about the problem before i diagnosed it is the responce the dealer threw me when they had it happen to them, "you need a new switch", the switch with labor was $250! And they said it was somewhere in the linkage.
Anyway, when you turn the key, try throwing it a bit faster than you normally would. Like you are trying to turn the key a couple of extra inches past the start point. I've been doing this for about two years.
Good luck,
Tom
Yes I do have a simular problem. But after investigating i have made a discovery...The problem was NOT the switch tied in with the clutch, It was in the ignition itself. I bypassed the cluth switch with a pigtail. Then the very next day I still had the problem. I figured out if I turn the key "briskly ", I make contact in there EVERY time! Try it. (by the way, I removed the pigtail....I didn't want someone else starting the truck and going through a garage door!)
The funny thing about the problem before i diagnosed it is the responce the dealer threw me when they had it happen to them, "you need a new switch", the switch with labor was $250! And they said it was somewhere in the linkage.

Anyway, when you turn the key, try throwing it a bit faster than you normally would. Like you are trying to turn the key a couple of extra inches past the start point. I've been doing this for about two years.
Good luck,
Tom
Well, tried the "quick" key movement today after work, and didn't seem to help, had to "pump" the clutch, so guess will have to make up a switch. The point on being careful is well taken.... Hence the switch so I can use it ONLY when needed. Hate to back into the fifth wheel when I started it in reverse!
Wonder what goes wrong with the switch, anybody ever taken one apart?
R...
Wonder what goes wrong with the switch, anybody ever taken one apart?
R...
If you follow the wires to the switch youll see where its hooked into the tin bracket. Get the wires free here and behind there is a plug that you can unplug abd make a small jumper to bypass the clutch switch. Youll need 2 narrow female push terminals and a few inches of 16 guage wire. mines been like this for a while now and its great. Just remember to put it in neutral before starting
on my 94 there was a recall on the ignition switch and head light switch, with key in the run position all u had to do to start the truck, was push in the clutch!! the ignition switch cured it.
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