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Chugging at Low RPM's

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Old Oct 17, 2006 | 02:03 PM
  #1  
JPurcell's Avatar
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From: Oakview, California
Red face Chugging at Low RPM's

Hello I am a new member:
I am somewhat mechanically skilled and have a 95 CTD with an Auto, LB and ext cab.
Bought the truck in 05 4X4 with 156K and the Auto Tranny was already rebuilt (ATS) along with the front end. Overall the truck is in great shape for 12years old. I only drive it on long hauls with 8K loads.
My need for extra horses has led me to install 315 Bosch inj, a D- HTB2 turbo, 4" outlet pipe, new alt, new K&N filter, fixed KDP, exh. shims, went thruogh all the fluids, frnt rubber brk lines, vac. pump, serp. belt, starter.

Question is that after installing the new inj & turbo the truck has very bad "driveabiltiy" at the low end <1500 RPM's but when it gets about 1700 it is a beast . Turned the star up 15 clicks thinking that it was starving for fuel, but when I returned the star to the origanal position (stock) it seem not to chug as much. Any suggestions or comment??
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Old Oct 17, 2006 | 02:56 PM
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From: Georgia/Kentucky
Pull your AFC housing and slide your fuel plate forward, or just buy a fuel plate and gov. spring kit.
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Old Oct 17, 2006 | 03:03 PM
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From: Laredo
Originally Posted by wilderness
Pull your AFC housing and slide your fuel plate forward, or just buy a fuel plate and gov. spring kit.
AFE intake

for better airflow, go ahead and ditch that stock fuel plate, get yourself a 10 plate or grind urs down to that pattern, set it forward, put some gauges in the truck, and ur good to go...

U might need slight tranny work tho after those upgrades..

Rick
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Old Oct 17, 2006 | 03:21 PM
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From: N 48 25.707 W123 21.887
Your governor arm is too low. If you bring it up it will bring the power down into the lower rpm range. With it taking of like a beast at 1700 rpm this is normally what happens with the arm to low. With the AFC housing top off you can determine what fuel plate you have and set the gov. arm accordingly. This link will explain it to you in detail.

http://www.cumminsdatabase.com/read.php?id=58
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Old Oct 17, 2006 | 03:48 PM
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From: Oakview, California
Thanks to all three of you. I will try adj the gov arm and may even try the plate adjustment.
BTW: I was at the Diesel Manor.Com and looking at the triple pillar with Pyro, Trans Temp & Boost. Is this the best set up for a 95 or should I go with the Fuel Pressure instead of the Boost?
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Old Oct 17, 2006 | 04:05 PM
  #6  
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From: Georgia/Kentucky
Originally Posted by JPurcell
Thanks to all three of you. I will try adj the gov arm and may even try the plate adjustment.
BTW: I was at the Diesel Manor.Com and looking at the triple pillar with Pyro, Trans Temp & Boost. Is this the best set up for a 95 or should I go with the Fuel Pressure instead of the Boost?
Definatly Bost! Fuel pressure can be mounted under the hood later to make sure that your lift pump is working right and see if you have leaks in your fuel lines. Check your private message.
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Old Oct 17, 2006 | 05:24 PM
  #7  
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From: Laredo
Originally Posted by JPurcell
Thanks to all three of you. I will try adj the gov arm and may even try the plate adjustment.
BTW: I was at the Diesel Manor.Com and looking at the triple pillar with Pyro, Trans Temp & Boost. Is this the best set up for a 95 or should I go with the Fuel Pressure instead of the Boost?
Id go all four if i were you

A FP really isnt needed on a 12V, but i have mine in the cab as well and its always good to know where my Pressure is at, when it lowers, i know its time for a filter change. I do have a new OFV, a new LP, and new rubber lines.. So if my FP drops i know its time to change out my Fuel Filter..

Rick
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