I noticed after washing my engine that there was something seeping around my injectors. My valve covers are leaking so I assumed it was the oil. I was watching the injectors and one bubbled and when I cut the engine off hissed for a second.
Can injectors be tightened or is there a seal that has to be replaced. I'm not ready to upgrade yet but if it's better off then I will. Is that something that I can do in my garage or is there a need for specialty tools ect. I would like to do them myself if possible.
Also if I were to upgrade my injectors, what other things need to be done to accommodate them?

 

Easy cheesy to do Injectors, make your own puller with a short piece of PVC pipe, a washer and a lug nut from you 94-02 2nd gen. Youtube has videos, and the parts are cheap, here is enough to do all 6 for 35 bucks..... Might be even cheaper on fleabay.

http://www.dieselpowerproducts.com/p...e-cummins.aspx

 

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94...tall-pics.html

 

Thanks. I have what I need laying around my garage for that. I guess I need to go ahead and replace my fuel lines too. The strainer gasket looks dry rotted and I'm sure the lines over the transmission are too.

 

that seal kit from dpp is a total ripoff. realistic price range for a seal kit is $9-13.

op--try to determine where the leak is. three places can leak, return banjo, tube nut or nozzle seat. if its leaking at tube nut tighten it up a bit, there is no gasket--its a ball seat. if leaking at nozzle you'll see fuel coming up through the injector body hold down nut. to tighten hold down you will likely first have to remove supply and return lines. if still leaking after tightening you will want to pull injector and install new nozzle seal. with injector out look down at nozzle seat with flashlight. chances are it could use a little clean up. I just did this yesterday, with an injector po had out and did not reinstall properly.

 

Ok so they are leaking thru the hold down nut at the top of the nut. Can I reuse the brass washers that the fuel lines use to connect to the injector? Also can I get the nozzle seals at Napa or a parts house? I wasn't sure if its just an o ring. I have to replace the valve cover gaskets because they are leaking right on the injectors and exhaust. I would like to do all this Saturday so that's why I was wondering if I could get the injector seals local.

 

http://hdengineparts.com/KIT6-INJECT...M-MCB59000.htm

http://www.gillettdiesel.com/injecto...itm-59010.aspx

the above links are realistic priced seal kits.

I don't believe the info in the thread posted about pulling injectors is correct in reference to the use of 9/16-18 lug nut and threading it onto the injector to pull(if that's what they implied-i just glanced at it quickly). the injectors threads are metric. I believe the 2nd gen threads are 14mm. I will look into it. yesterday I was working on one of my 1st gens--which have m12-1.5 threads on injectors.

as far as tightening your hold down nut. your going to need to loosen and/or remove the line clamps associated with the injector line your working on. this will allow it to carefully be moved to the side to allow a deep 15/16" socket to tighten the hold down---after you remove the return line banjo bolt and neighboring return line banjo bolts to allow it to also be carefully moved aside while tightening the hold down nut.
I would recommend ordering one of the above seal kits to have on hand if needed.

 

Thanks for all the help. I'm planning on tightening the hold down this weekend. If they still leak then I think I'll just change the injectors. I'm not looking to blow smoke or race but I am looking to be able to pull out in Atlanta traffic without getting shot at. Right now without a trailer the truck takes off pretty good. But with my double axle enclosed trailer, it's a bit sluggish. If I have to pull my injectors to fix the leak then I want to make sure everything is clean and like new. So with that I think I should install new.
If I do install new injectors, what HP should I use? I want good fuel economy and good wide range power. Pulling hills, take off ect. If I change the injectors to higher HP, then do I have to change other parts? I am planning on putting a 4k governor spring in and also a #10 plate. Do I need to change valve springs if I do that? Like I said, I could care less about blowing smoke or shaming a Chevy (well maybe shaming a Chevy every now and then) but good overall performance for towing/hauling and fuel economy for daily driving. Thanks for all the help.

 

Is the fuel seeping from the injector shim at the head, or from the body / nozzle and out past the nozzle holder?
Ive run a few sets of rebuilt injectors. used bodies with new nozzles. Every single !@#$!@#$ set Ive run like this has leaked at the body / nozzle interface (theres no gasket there its machined flat).
Ive tried lapping the mating surfaces, tried sealant.. I give up.
Ive gone through a pile of the thin washers in the process which arent cheap.
Next set I buy will be new bodies and new nozzles.

 

Its leaking around the whole down nut. On the inside of the knot Closest to the injector. I'm obviously going to try to tighten first but if that doesn't work I'm going to remove and clean everything.

 

If it leaks past the nozzle holder, it will fill that cavity and bubble up through the injector hold down nut. If you see fuel there, it can be an injector shim or a leak at the body/nozzle.

 

That's exactly where it's leaking. I ordered the seal kit and plan on tightening this weekend. I replaced the valve cover gaskets Saturday so the oil doesn't leak on them and I'll be able to see when they are dry. I also replaced my fuel lines yesterday so after I fix the injectors, the fuel system should be completely fixed.

 

My new seal kit arrived this week so I'm planning on fixing all the leaks. My plan is to pull all of them one at a time, clean and replace seals. I've seen the puller that can be made with a lug nut and was curious how tiff they are to take out. Also what's the torque spec for tightening the hold down nut? And finally what are the things to watch out for in the remove and reinstall process and the best way to clean? I'm not ready to install new injectors yet. I want to install my exhaust and look into a transmission or converter first. I slid my stock plate and housing all the way forward and put a boost elbow on and I'm already nervous about shredding the converter. Any help will be much appreciated.

 

Using the piece of pipe lug nut method sometimes you don't even need a wrench to turn the nut, they come out easy.
Don't bend any lines, even the small return, remove them totally from both ends. Otherwise they are very difficult to line up again.
I use a shotgun cleaning fine wire brush to clean out the bores or you can buy the right brush from a Bosch shop or Cummins.

 

I have a set of brushes for anything from .17-.54 Caliber so those should work. Do the lines get any gunk built up in them? I didn't know if I should blow them out as well. After I finish this I think I've taken care of all of the fuel leaks. Next I need to bump my timing. My fuel mileage is horrible. I've already changed the overflow and fuel lines so I figure that's about the last thing that could be effecting it.