Here's what I did after trying the unsuccessful Torx jibber-jabber (for about 45 minutes with no luck)...

I got a center punch, grinded it down to where it was like a flat-blade screwdriver. Then I started tapping it with a hammer on the side of the break-off screw in a counter-clockwise direction. After it rotated about 1/4 turn it was removeable by hand. Took about 15 seconds and it didn't damage the head of the break-off screw much at all (less than the Torx BS) I then slotted the break-off screw with a cut-off wheel so that it could be reinstalled and removed later with a screwdriver.

 

Screwdrivers or slotting probably won't work at this point, I'll try the Socket idea, but do you guys pull the injector lines to do this? It just seems like there's no room to do it otherwise.

 

how ever you decide to do it, don't bend the lines out of the way. I heard that they are easily broken that way

 

If you remove #6 and 7 from the IP and from the holders on the drivers side of the head they can be easily and safely moved aside. There is enough length by then that they will move w/o bending.

 

I only slotted the screw so that I could re-install it with a screwdriver.

Once you nudge the side of the head a few times with a punch it'll loosen up and can be removed by hand. Then just replace the screw, as well as the other 3, with allen head or hex head cap screws with the same size and length.

No reason to move anything out of the way as far as fuel lines or anything goes.

 

This only works on 7 cylinder engines though

 

I always used a hacksaw blade to cut a slot in the head and used a screw driver to get them out. Maybe not the easiest but it always worked.
Tree DR

Got to change the Signature soon.. Picking up a 98 12v QC in a couple of days.

 

I tried the Screwdriver deal, this thing is in there pretty good, as is the opposite flathead screw, I put on the biggest flathead I have, threw a crescent wrench on it and tried twisting, and it still wouldnt turn without popping out of the slot, its hard to get it on there straight, but still, it shouldn't be this hard.

 

Did you try a sockett? A 3/8 or 5/16 should do it. It should pound right over the head. Just use a cheap sockett.

Also when using a screw driver tap the top of the screwdriver with a hammer while turning and it will help break it loose. But I'll put my money on the sockett trick.

 

I gotta try that, but how the hell can you get in there with the injector lines in the way?

 

Haha, oops. You caught one of my half asleep posts, but then again my brain only works half normally.

 

I'm tellin ya...use a flat punch. After trying the Torx method, and trying to hammer a socket over it, I feared that I would crack the AFC Housing Cover if I smacked it too hard. The head was boogered up pretty good and I thought "great". But, I got the punch and hit the screw from an angle about 5 taps and it was removeable by hand. Took less than 15 seconds, literally. If I had done it that way from the beginning I wouldnt have been cussing it for an hour.

 

I just son't know if I can get in with a punch without pulling the injector lines, but I'll give it a shot...Thanks TexasHardcore.

 

1 more thing, how much power am I gonna be making with a 100 Plate and AFC Slid forward...Enough to make my transmission skip a beat or two?

 

If you have a stock tranny I give it a month
Of course it all depends on how you drive but whats the fun of having a #100 if you don't use it?