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Brake rotors, 95 4wd

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Old Apr 3, 2013 | 10:57 PM
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glockrow's Avatar
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Brake rotors, 95 4wd

was a very frustrating day! I spent the entire afternoon trying to remove the right front hub so that I can replace the brake rotor. The hub is stuck solid, I've tried everything I could find in these forums to no avail. Is there any reason that I shouldn't go rent a big puller? Could I break something? Does anyone have any suggestions?
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Old Apr 4, 2013 | 06:51 AM
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From: Land of the Toxic Avenger
Originally Posted by glockrow
was a very frustrating day! I spent the entire afternoon trying to remove the right front hub so that I can replace the brake rotor. The hub is stuck solid, I've tried everything I could find in these forums to no avail. Is there any reason that I shouldn't go rent a big puller? Could I break something? Does anyone have any suggestions?
For some reason this was posted in the 1st gen forum, vs the second gen. I don't know if the setups are different, but on my first gen, the rotor and hub are pressed together with the lug studs.

Not the same on the 2nd gen ? the search criteria came up with a ton of info. on how to do the front brakes on your truck, if you specify where you want the information from in the search function.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...archid=5416766

This thread below, in particular, gives you "pictures" to view and tells you the hub must be removed to do it properly.... although I've never done one on a 2nd gen myself

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...or+replacement


I would suggest spending the $50 and buying yourself a repair manual.... or at minimum the cheapo chilton or hayes manual available just about anywhere ...
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Old Apr 5, 2013 | 08:29 AM
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In a perfect world, you do not have to remove the hub to remove the rotor. The rotor should pound off of the hub. I just got doing them on a 2nd gen. To remove the hubs without breaking a sweat, heres what you do: There are 4 14mm bolts holding the hub in place that thread in through the back. They should be 14mm.Take them all out, and thread two of them back in at opposite corners. Get a 16MM 12 point socket (so it fits over the head of the bolt but not past the built in washer and you don't ruin a good socket/head of the bolt) and an extension long enough that it will contact the spindle (best to have 2 people, 1 to turn the wheel the other to center the extension on the spindle and monitor the hub) and with the truck running (DO NOT HIT THE BRAKES) turn the wheel and force the hub out 1/2 inch at a time ALTERNATING between bolts so you don't **** the hub inside the spindle/housing. This is how I did it on a friends 2nd gen and at 176k miles my 3rd gen is due for hubs tonight.
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Old Apr 5, 2013 | 11:29 AM
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Use your truck's built in hydraulic press> http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94...ake-rotor.html
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Old Apr 5, 2013 | 09:47 PM
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joem's Avatar
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From: Brightwood, Oregon
the 95 does not have slip off rotors, hub must come off
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