I buy my brake line in 25 ft rolls. Cost about $20 or less.

 

If you're going to buy the wheel cylinders, upgrade to the Chevy 1 tons. They are 13 bucks each and make a big difference. Infidel has the part numbers for them, or just do a search as it has been discussed many times before. It isn't hard to bend your own lines, I've done 2 sets so far, all you need is a bender($20) and a double flaring tool ($35). Good Luck

 

Ok I will check with my shop first to see if they have those tools to use. Now is there any major work that I'm going to have to do, or move anything big out of the way to get to my brake lines? My girlfriend’s father told me that I would have to drop the gas tank to get to the brake lines, would I be able to just pull the bed up and get to the lines this way? What is my best bet for this, and also you said that I can get the Chevy One ton for 13 dollars a peace instead of paying 30 something for the dodge?

 

I can add this, I used to have a 97 gasser that I had to replace the fuel line on (loong story). I should have dropped the tank, it would have been quicker in the long run. Then again on my 86 gasser, when I did the brake lines, I just unbolted all the line clips and was able to finagle (is that a word?) the line outta there. If it were me, I`d drop the tank, that way you can get a good picture of any other nasty-ness going on back there, and it`ll make the job easier in the long run...all just MHO of course.

 

Well if I do that then I have a tank with 17 gallons of diesel in it, no back to the lines. Have you guys found steel brake lines that have machined flared ends? The Chilton’s book recommends that I use those if I can find them at my local auto parts store.

 

Most any auto parts store has brake lines already made up with the flares and fittings . They come in different lenghts so you can piece it together , you will also need some unions for where they go together. To get the new line behind the tank ( between the frame) , cut the old line in front and in back of the tank where it's easy to get at. Then tape a string to one end and pull it through . Now you will have a pull sting to pull the new line through.I think I used a 72" section for that . Be sure to tape the end of the new line before you pull it through so it doesn't get full of crude. Changing the wheel cylinders to the Chevy 1 tons is a good idea , the chances are slim you will get the old bleeders out , plus you'll have better brakes.Mine is a '94 , I used the steel , if they last another 12 years it will be someone elses problem. Good luck

 

yup, those are the ones they sell out of the cardboard tubes. you do not have to remove the old lines. you do not have to take the exact route although it is recomended. i did not have to drop the tank. although mine line blew in september and i had to tilt the bed in december for fuel lines anyway.

when you go to "finagle" the line between the tank and chassis, take some tape and block the end of the line while you pass it through. otherwise the rust flakes will contaminate your brake hydralic system.

so, moral of the story, dodge's steel lines are programmed to fail in 10 years in the northern climate. if you have the time, do the fuel lines too! there not far behind. they will be rotted out at the 90 going into the fuel module.

 

I like the stainless because the lines you purchase through a part's store are a very poor quality. If they lasted the 10 years the originals on my truck did, I'd use them. But I have worked in the auto repair business in this area, and once the original lines are replaced with the part's store lines, they usually last 2-3 years. I haven't replaced mine yet because I'm waiting until the truck can be down for a bit, and I'll be shipping my old lines out to Classic Tube to have them duplicated in stainless. Right now I cross my fingers every time I drive the truck. The originals are in very scary shape, and I have no idea why they haven't started leaking yet.

And yes, I think Dodge has a timer on the lines. My '97 Dakota needed all the lines replaced 2 years ago. And the cheap lines used to replace them need replacing again.

Jim (wishing he lived in a dry southern climate)

 

Ok I am working on this and I think I might be ready to take on this project, just a quick thing. Does anyone know how long the brake lines are from the Master cylinder, down the frame and so on? If not does anyone know of a site that would tell you that kind of specs?

 

since you have rear abs (if it's still working) you actually have 2 short lines from the rear brake port of the master to the abs valve.( only 6"-8" long) one line is feed and one is return.

then you have a segment from that valve to the 90 block on the frame that feeds the rear axle,this section is less than 30" long.

then you have a line from the front brake port of the master to the 3 way block on the outside of the chassis (drivers side) this is less than 30" also.

you also need a 60" to cross from the 3 way drivers side front to the passenger side front.

then you need about 11 feet to make it to the rear axle.

-------------------------------
i would get...


2 wheel cylinders

2 - 8"-3/16" lines
2- 30" 3/16" lines
3- 60" 3/16" lines
2- 12" 3/16" lines
4- strait unions
2- 90 unions
1- pb blaster

i have not done mine from the master to the frame but they look like 3/16" also take a peek at them before you go!
-----------------------------------------------------
here are the lengths that are readily avalible...

8",12",20",30",51",60"


remember, your always better off with 6" too much than 1" too short

 

Ok well I have done some shopping around and here’s where I'm at.
4.99 for LW can
3.87 For 60inch of 3/16" brake line
12.99 For Chevy 1 ton wheel cylinder
Truck has to be done by the end of this weekend. I think I am going to go with the saying if it aint broke, don’t fix it. The line that runs down the frame to the rear axle is the one that broke so I am going to just R&R that one for a quick fix so that I can get my truck back on the road cause the mother is having surgery and I have to get this fixed. Then in about a month or so I will pull out the old car and use it as the everyday driver. Pull off all the lines and send them over to NY so that I can have all my lines done in Stainless steel, this will save me a lot of time bending and so on. I want to go that route anyways, but I don’t have the time to wait for mailing right now. Thanks for everyone’s input and help and I will let you know how it came out, truck goes in the shop at 0900 tomorrow.

 

You'll end up replacing the other lines when they actually break. Trust me...I know. When i did the front brakes on my truck (2 rotors, 1 caliper, and pads) I decided to put off the lines for a "couple weeks" until after I had time to drive the truck and evaluate it. That was around May or June. Now I'm hoping the lines make it through the winter.

Good luck with the fix!

Jim

 

Ok I wanted to thank everyone here that gave some input on the brake lines, job is all done and I was able to buy the lines and finish the job in 5 hours and the whole thing came out to be under 40 bucks. I kept the original line because I will send that one in and have it made into stainless steel and then I will drop the fuel tank again and replace the brake line along the frame and I will also replace the fuel lines. Now for anyone that wanted to know the distance from the 90 degree union on the drivers side of the frame back to the rear axle can be covered with 13 feet of steel cable.

 

Great,

I'm glad you are up and running, especially for under $40!

Did you have go back for more parts?

were the bleeder screws frozen?

happy new year!

 

Nope didnt have to go back for any parts, used PB blaster on the bleder screw and bought the 30 mm wheel cylinders for the chevy 1 ton, but I will put those on later. I didnt include that with the 40 bucks, 12.50 for labor in the hoby shop ( did that myself) and 20 something for the parts. Thanks tim, and happy new year to you too.