Ok today has been a crazy day. I lost my brakes because the line has blown out in between the fuel tank and the frame. I've been told that its going to be "FUN" replacing this. Now I wanted any info you guys have on this project for me, I can't drive my truck and I will be in the shop all weekend fixing it ( guess this is my late Christmas present) Is there after market brake lines that are better then stock, I don't know anything about my stock brake lines here, but I would like to upgrade if I can because the truck spent most of its life in NY, and has lots of rusted lines like brakes, fuel, and trany. Also should I just stick with the DOT 3 brake fluid or is there something else. Thanks in advance guys.

 

I am not aware of "after market" brake lines for your truck. However if you want to spend the extra cash, check out the boat trailer industry. They have been puting stainless steel lines on boat trailers for years. Buy the kit for a single axle trailer or just the brake line of the same diameter and roll your own. Be mindful that all brake lines nowadays are double flared. The brake systems on boat trailers are a hydraulic surge type and the componets should be DOT approved for the same pressure ratings. Then again you can always take it to one of the local brake shops? I have found that some jobs are not worth doing myself and the extra money is well spent.

 

I did my brake lines, not to bad. have fun trying to loosen the bleeder screws on the wheel cylinders. soak em' good in pb blaster, then use a 6 pt deep socket. if you feel any slack at all in the socket on the bleeder screw, drop down to the next size (may be a metric one) and tap it on with a hammer.

you'll be doing the tranny, power steering, steel coolant lines, etc. next

 

I have a serious problem with the very cheap auto industry. Why is it that people buy top of the line cars and trucks for $50,000+, and they still come with steel lines, instead of stainless? I think the DOT should make stainless lines mandatory for brake and fuel lines for safety. It would only cost a couple dollars per vehicle and would be far less headaches a few years down the road.

For an alternative, try www.classictube.com I have dealt with them in the past and they are great. I haven't checked lately, but they have specs on hand for many OEM lines so they can make them in regular steel or stainless and ship them to you. Their prices really aren't bad...I've seen entire vehicle kits for under $200. Its a lot compared to the straight line available at a part's store, but that crap will need replacing in a couple years, and you have to cut it, bend it, and flare it. I'm a very cheap person, but I need lines, and if they have specs for my truck, I'll definately spend the $$$ for their stainless lines.

Oh, and if you manage to remove a line in decent condition (still has the original shape and fittings), you can send it to them and they will duplicate it. They have a machine that will actually scan your line and duplicate it exactly. I saw their place and its really cool. Great bunch of guys and they will make just about any line for any application. They are located near Buffalo, NY but ship lines anywhere.

Jim

 

what about running Steel Braided Brake Line do I have an advantage with these?

 

One other quick question does this truck have 2 or 4 wheel ABS? Thanks in advance guys.

 

i have almost the same truck as you. mine is even green. you have just rear wheel abs. My abs has been down for over a year, i replaced the speed sensor in the rear diff. and the fluid. still no luck. we even put it on the computer and were not getting a response from the abs module. so, either that is fried or it's got a bad ground or power?

as far as the brake line, you have to stick with steel high pressure. there flared on both sides. mine blew behind the fuel tank too

i wiped mine down with brakeclean then painted them with a rusty metal primer spray before installing them, this might give me a couple more years?

 

Well I live in AZ now so rust is not a problem for me, the stuff that is already rusted is killing me now. Ok so I can use stainless steal brake lines right? Now I was told that the brake lines have a 30 degree flare and the stainless steal lines have a 45 degree flare and I could not use it unless I change the connectors on the brakes. Any ideas here or am I just rambling on about something I have no clue about.

 

just change them with the steel 3/16" lines. there very cheap. if you are down there now, they will last 20 years. the biggest pain is bleeding the lines.

don't try to cut the lines and try to flare them. just do your best to measure. if you need 72" buy a 60" a union and a 12".

 

so can I just go to any autopart store and pick this line up, also do I have to bend this?

 

yes, any autoparts store. yes you can bend them very easy by hand. just connect one end, take your time and dont try to do a quick 90 without a bender. they sell 90's if you need them. remember, soak the old fittings in pb blaster or liquid wrench, chop the line off at the fitting and use a 6 pt socket. you'll round them off with an open end wrench!

dot 3 or 4

you'll be doing the fuel lines next

 

I redid all the lines on my 86W250 with stainless. I got it in a roll from Summit. The hardest part was bending & flaring as the stainless is alot harder than the stock mild steel stuff, but it will last forever.

 

Ok great I will start looking around after work today for some brake lines. Now could you give me an idea of how much I will need, the reason I ask is because I am on a Marine Corps base so I have no way to pull the truck apart and look around until I take it into the hobby shop and that is 3.50 an hour to put it on a lift and check things out. I would like to get it all done at once. Also this liquid wrench that you’re talking about, I can pick that up at an auto parts store also right?

 

Yep, Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster are both good penetrants but I bet you have Kroil in the armory. That beats all I have ever seen for penetration. It was developed as a solvent for machine guns. You can also buy it in the local auto parts store.

 

if you have to get it done one shot deal, I would buy a set of rear wheel cylinders also ($30)ea. then, if you can loosen the bleeder screws, just return the wheel cylinders. if your lines are rusted as bad as you describe, chances are you'll twist off the bleeder screws in the process and need those wheel cylinders.

otherwise you'll be back and forth to the parts store while your truck is up on the lift.

going buy memory, you need a 60" to cross over the front axle (front brakes).

you need 2-60" and 1-24" to go from front to rear (rear brakes).

pick up extra line to in case you screw up. and some unions.

this does not include the segments from the master down to the frame.


spray your bleeder screws now if you can!