I am about three months into my CTD. It lacked power and MPG's from the day I bought it. I've yet to address the big three factors on the engine that are causing the bad performance. IP timing, boost leak, and air in the fuel. I have been impatiently awaiting my guages for a while now (still have'nt shipped yet) so I don't know where my boost and EGT's are. As for the air in the fuel I noiticed the line coming from the steel line above the bell housing looks rottn' so I guess I should just replace them all. While I'm at it I'll go ahead and replace the overflow valve too. So should I replace the lines all the way from the tank? If so, how do you hook them into the tank? Do I have to drop the tank?

Now on to the boost. Will I be able to tell if I have a boost leak once my guage is in? I already tested the w.g. and it was bad so I pulled the line and plugged it good. I noticed the other day that the first IC boot from the turbo had been rubbing against the pressure sensor on the A/C and is now softer in that spot. Is that a common place for the boost to leak? Can I squirt some soap on it and have somebody rev it up and have enough pressure to see a leak? I have tightened all the clamps so I'm good there. Any other places for common leaks?

Finally the pump timing. I was planning a trip to a local shop to have the timing set but I found out they don't use a dial indicator, they use the ol whiteout on the harmonic bal. trick. Is it a bad idea to pay the $125.00 to have them set it? What is the safest degree to set at. I've heard of many different settings but the more input I get the easier my final decision will be.
The truck smells extremly ritch and smokes gray/white most of the time, especially in the morning. Any input will help and if I missed any thing else to check let me know.

Thank's' Chad

 

Yes, replace the lines all the way back. You don't have to drop the tank as long as you can squeeze between the fender and the frame. The lines just slip over the steel nozzles on the tank module and you can hose clamp them tight. Use some vaseline to help the hoses go over, it's a tight fit.

The gray/white smoke usually means cold combustion. That's common in the mornings. Not sure on the rest of your questions, but someone will chime in soon. Good luck!

 

http://www.boostcreeps.com/phpBB/boo...r.php#assembly look here this is similiar to what I and im sure everybody else uses to check for boost leaks, try to regulate the air pressure somewhere around 15 or 20psi.

 

Thats great! I was thinking about making an adaptor for my coolant leak detector but it is a hand pump, the compressor is much better thanks. I was going to cut an old radiator cap off and clamp it in a boot like that. Hey you should give that to monty for his new post.

 

No, you need to have it under load to produce boost, truck needs to be moving.

Only works if you know for sure what the current timing is, otherwise the number you end up with is just a guess. Only use a mechanic that uses the dial indicator method. Have it set to 16°.

My boost tester, pipe and cap are 4"
rubber 4"ID x 4" OD hose clamp connector is $6 from Home Depot.

 

Thanks for the help. Today I drove around with a small trailer and the truck did'nt do so well. When I got home it had heavy gray/white smoke and smelled even more ritch than usual. I wonder if the injectors are clogged. The truck sat for at least 8 months before I bought it and the p.o. got 18-20 mpg (he is a good friend and I trust him) I've changed the fuel filter and pre filter a week ago. Timing or injectors? Or Both? I also noticed moisture around the fuel shut off, can those sometimes leak?

 

Well I ran a pressure test today and there was a small pin hole leak in one IC boot. I also heard air flowing pretty good from somewhere near the oil pan. It almost sounded like it was in the engine. Should I hear the air in the engine. However I did notice when I disconnected my air hose, the fitting was leaking.

I also went to a diesel performance shop today and had the timing checked and he said the timing was fine and he thought it might be a boost leak. Would that little pin hole make that big of a difference?

 

The sound from the engine you heard was probably air leaking though an open valve. If you bump the starter to rotate the engine a little bit you can make the leak better, or worse.

 

That's what I was thinking but I was'nt sure. I also checked my overflow valve today too and it was 12mm and seemed strong. I can't see how someone could charge $45 or more for that little spring.
Does any one have a link for a good shopping list for how many feet of fuel line, size, how many hose clamps, ect... I need to buy to completely replace my lines? thanks

 

Here's one I sent to someone else in response to their question.


Well, if you have a 12 valve, which I assume you do if you found my name, then here goes.
1. Get diesel rated fuel hose. Enough to go from front to back is probably the best method. Keeps you from having to deal with cracks in the metal lines. I used about 12' of 3/8" (supply) and 12' of 5/16" (return) hose. That was on a regular cab. If you have something different, or just to be sure, measure yours from the front wheel to the back and then add a little for the bends. The marine hose is more expensive, but tougher and will last longer. There are a couple of sites commonly listed on these posts, or you can find it at your local marine shop.
2. Get a couple of good hose clamps for each end of the hose. (8 total)
3. Remove the fuel filter. It helps to reach the return line.
4. Reach around down in behind where the fuel filter was and find the rubber line that runs to the injector pump area. Usually there will be a hose clamp of some sort there. Can't remember the socket size, but mine were the same as the new hose clamps. Take that clamp loose and pull the hose off.
5. While you are still somewhat patient, hook the 5/16" return line up to this same place and secure it with clamps. It is a tough job to reach in there. I found that laying over the valve cover helped.
6. The supply hose is right behind the fuel filter bracket. From the same position (laying on the valve cover) take this loose and install the new hose and secure with clamps.
7. Now route the hoses back to the tank, using the old metal lines both as a guide and anchor point for your rubber hose (I used zip ties).
8. Take your choice here. 1.Drop the tank-2 15MM nuts hold the straps in place. Use a floor jack with a big piece of plywood or 2x4's to spread the load out. 2. Lift the bed-6 bolts through the frame to the bottom of the bed. You can loosen the back two and tilt the bed back if you wish. Just make sure you block it up securely. 3. (the one I chose) Squeeze in between the bed side and frame. From this position you can see the module on top of the tank.
9. There are the two lines on top of the tank that are probably connected to some plastic pipe with "quick disconnects". They are kinda hard to get off, but I just used a screwdriver and pulled them apart. (the tool I had was the wrong size) You won't be using them anymore anyway.
10. Connect the supply line to the bigger fitting and the return to the smaller. (Also check out the condition of these fittings as they are a source of leaks) I used a bit of vaseline to help the hoses slide over the barb in the fitting. Secure these with the hose clamps. I would use one in front and one behind the barb.
11. After that is done, replace your fuel filter from step 3 if you haven't already and you are ready to prime. The air pressure to the tank works good. Just loosen the bleed screw on top of the filter housing and apply pressure with an air compressor and rag. Not too much, don't want to blow the tank up (10 psi is good).

Everything should prime up in 15-20 seconds when you get diesel coming out of the bleed screw. After all this, you are ready to start it back up and make sure you don't have any leaks.

Couple of notes. If you drop the tank, make sure you have enough room for the wires on top of the module to come down too without pulling or breaking them. Also, there is a line between the fuel heater and lift pump (about 6" long) that may leak too. I haven't replaced this one, but 1/2" is the hose size. You will probably need a couple of feet as the original is pre-moulded.

Hope this helps! Let me know if you have any further questions.

 

Be safe measure first. Length all depends on what type of cab you have. You will need 5/16" for the return and 3/8" for the delivery hoses. Use USCG approved diesel hose if you want to do it only once. I use two clamps on each end for a total of eight.

 

Thanks for the help I'm gonna tackle that this weekend. I noticed fuel seeping somewhere from the fuel shutoff. I don't know exactly where though. Is that a common place for a leak?

 

Not really but the forward end of the return hose is close enough that it might drip on the solenoid.

 

Well I'm not 100% sure that it's the solenoid. The back of the pump is damp around the throttle stop where you adjust the idle. My valve covers are leaking too, I think the truck just sat for too long and everything dried out. None of the leaks are bad, nothing ever hits the ground it's all just minor seeping.

 

When you guys made your test boot, did you hook it up where the air intake goes on the turbo or on the elbow comming off the bottom of the turbo? The reason I ask is because I hooked it into the elbow.