Short history 6 months ago changed wheel clyinders and rear shoes. When brakeing rear of truck would "hop", after it would lock driver side rear. So I loosened it up. Lately it has been "hoping" again, been meaning to check passenger side. Today after a drive as I passed drivers side wheel I noticed the unmistakeable smell of a dragging brake. Why would an adjuster over tighten, especially on one of these trucks? ( I hear that they don't work well, and never hear of them too well. ) Any thoughts will be aperciated, anyone wanting to give their .02 feel free to PM me for my address .

 

Check to make sure that your Ebrake isnt hanging. I had a wheel hop like that the other day when I forgot to release the Ebrake leaving the gas station. Truck pulled good as always till I hit the brake. Instant wheel hop. Ironically I usually recheck the parking brake once i start driving down the road. I never liked the fact that the Ebrake pedal comes back to the top after engaugment.

 

Are the new shoes on the right side?
Bigger shoe goes to the rear. It is possible to install them on the wrong side and have the shoes reversed. Only one shoe serves to self adjust, if the wrong one is there you will have problems.

 

Check and make sure your axle seals aren't leaking. Diff fluid on the shoes can cause them to grab. Good luck

MIke

 

This does not happen every time I stop. Some days it does it, some not. The whole reason I tore into them was because the passenger side axle seal was leaking. Also changed gear lube in front and rear at the same time. Busy day. I checked the E-Brake cable today. It seemed to not be catching but I was able to push the cable back into the protective sheath about 1/4" or so. Of course today was a didn't do it day so I wasn't able to check the cable after it did it. Thanks for the suggestions.

 

Look on the bright side. My rears stink and hardly work. I have the 1 ton cylanders and new pads sitting here while the lines are soaking with penetrating oil. I know that my drums are going to be bad to get off as I let the guy play with them for 1/2 an hour when I got new tires a couple months ago. I may have to try the jack the drop up and slam the brake method. Hopefully we both get our brake issues fixed.

 

Agreed. I hope that you don't run into what I did when I upgrade mine. Here's the cut version from my post after I found it.

While rear cover was off started the brakes on driver side, jacked up and removed wheel fine. Drum was another matter, had to beat it off with a brass hammer. Come to find out the shoe retaining pin had either broken or was not installed correctly before and the front shoe was twisted in the drum and rubbing the front of the drum creating a shallow cut in the drum. Also on this side the pin that pushes on the rear shoe from the wheel cylinder was in front of the shoe and not pressing on it at all. Needless to say this is probbaly where my bucking while breaking was comming from and had minimal to no breaking from this side. Went to pass side to check how bad it was going to be. Not bad other than drenched in oil witch I had been expecting.

Good luck on yours.

 

Sounds like the drums are slightly out of round. If new return them, or have them run on a brake lathe to true them up.

 

to get the drums off in 10 seconds.....remove the tires and place the rear axle on stands. be sure there is a lug nut on each side of the axle to stop the drum from flying off, start the truck and put in gear.....now with the rears spinning....hit the brakes. if the drums are BADLY worn you may need to back up the adjusters to get em off, but not usually.

 

I know exactly what you mean high country. I am going to try and avoid that method as I dont trust my jackstands that much. If I do end up that way I will be stacking some logs under the axle also as an added safety margin. I have to finish the injector install before I do the brakes today or tommorrow. My pipe wouldnt fit over the dog ring on the injector body so I called it a day yesterday. New pipe in hand and a ton of things to do to the truck.

 

Hey guys, new to your group, (last month) still shopping for my truck so no signature (hard to find what I want that's not red), but for my .02 having 30+years with tinkering with my own brakes. All (yes all) new drums and rotors and rotors are not true always have them turned before first install, all replacement shoes particulary lower end relines are subject to being warped during the relining process, and any brake springs and hardware that are not new have been subject to heat and will not hold your shoes in place, combine all these things and you will experience the drag you seem to get when adjusting the brake by hand, there is not much tolerance in there with a new (unworn) drum and new shoe, this causes heat to build and in itself can cause a seal to fail if overheated for and extended period, then you have a lube dump and another rebuild on hand this problems are particulary prevalent on a heavier vehicle with heavier components. In the meantime you allow it to continue for too long it will cause unncessary strain on the front (calipers) resulting in sticking or dragging, even in normal commute driving.. ie all the brakes gotta be working right and in proportion to each other or you will just nitpick yourself to death with it . Hope that helps, I know this because I have made all these mistakes, nothin worse than a redneck with a lil education... I have learned a lot on the forum and am using every bit of it in my search...wish I had this much exchange of information available for some of my previous uhhh... mistakes or adventures.