infidel

If you try to start it with a dry filter the air bleeding process will be more involved.
Once the injection pump is air locked it will take a lot of cranking to expel the air.
After you have the filter full of fuel and no bubbles are coming out of the bleed valve on top of the filter loosen the first three injector lines at the injector a couple of turns and crank the engine for no more than 15 seconds at a time till bubble free fuel comes out.
Tighten the lines back up and try starting it with a lot of throttle.
It should run rough for a bit but will pull out of it.
Most times it will require charging the batteries at least once to go though the entire process.

tgriffin27

Filled filter with fuel, Poured 5 galllons of fuel in the tank and the gauge went from empty to a quarter tank which made me happy because now I know the gauge works. Bled air out of the fuel filter,cranked it several times never could get fuel to the injectors with them loosened. Pushed the ever living crap out of the primer button on the lift pump. The shutdown solenoid is pulling the rod up while it is turning over so im guessing it is working right from what I have read on the site. Took the wires off the intake heater, loosened the rubber boot going to the intake and pulled it down. Had someone spray starting fluid in the intake while it was turning over it hit and tried to start twice but it never fired off and ran After doing all that with the three injectors still loose never did see any fuel at the injectors. The previous owner is going to call his diesel mechanic tomorrow and see if he has any ideas and I probably will be trying the compressed air threw the gas cap trick tomorrow.

infidel

Try using WD-40 instead of starting fluid.
You can run it on WD for several minutes if necessary.
Keep the grid heater disconnected though.

tgriffin27

Ok I will give that a try tomorrow.

NE frmhnd

You can run it on ether OR WD-40. Just remember the guy holding the can is the guy is running the throttle.

patdaly

I kept one going for over 5 Min. with WD40, don't ask, a VP44 that didn't want to prime.

I wouldn't personally use Ether, WD is perfect.

And yea the nut spraying the can is the throttle, make sure he knows it........

bnold

Thought the new WD was flameless?

patdaly

Hmm, guess I had better get a can to try then, I did my last run with it in 2008........

tgriffin27

Got it towed over to a friends garage so I could have tools readily available to work on it. Thanks to a air compressor we got the fuel up(bubble free) to the injector pump last night. Can't seem to get it to come out of the injector pump though. Tried to turn it over but its really slow and it melted a positive battery cable end on the drivers side battery. Charged the batterys back up and started installing new positive cable ends last night. The cables where really corroded cleaned all that off and going to install new cable ends on some of the small wires today. Hopefully that will get it spinning really fast so it will finally run again. Has a almost new starter from oreilly's (PO Installed that before he parked it) on it now so I'm hoping thats not going to be a problem since aftermarket starters I have used in the past tend to go bad when they sit for awhile.

gotdiesel2

Subscribed

Nice find! Keep us posted of your progress....

patdaly

If you find the starter is bad, and most aftermarket ones don't last on the Cummins, get your new one from Foster truck....... Expensive, but brand new genuine Nipp.....

tgriffin27

Installed new connectors on some of the small wires going to the drivers side battery positive terminal. Took the starter off and exchanged it under warranty. The old one was rebuilt in china the new one said rebuilt in the USA so it should last awhile. If it doesn't I will be checking into buying a nippendenso starter. The truck spun over so fast it only took three tries at ten seconds each to get fuel to the injectors. I tightened all 6 injector lines back up, sprayed a little starting fluid in the intake and she fired up and ran awesome. I took a minute long video of it running right after start up but can't figure out how to get it off my android phone and upload it or email it to myself. I can say one thing I will never ever run this truck out of fuel. That was such a pain in the a@@ to get the fuel back to the injectors words can't describe how awful and hard it was. Started the truck today
in 30 degree weather and it spun over twice and fired up and it surprised me because I can't get any power to the intake heater now and I don't hear a click anymore after the wait to start light goes off. The PO said he has never had to plug the block heater up in the winter and it fired right up in 7 degree weather with no problems. I guess I was the first one to use the block heater when I used it yesterday to see if it would help starting the engine. I heard a click before I put new positive battery cable ends on it, but now I hear no click when the wait to start light goes off. I will be cleaning the interior this week and trying to find what I messed up with the wires to the battery. I do need some advice on what clutch to buy as this one has 206,000 on it and I went for a test drive yesterday and if you really floor the pedal the clutch slips so I am about 100 percent positive if I try to two something the clutch is going to fall apart. I will be pulling a two horse trailer in the future and hopefully a 24 foot trailer with my camaro in it. I also would like to do some of the mods to the fuel plate and governor spring in the future so I know i will need to upgrade the clutch for those so might as well do it now and get a good clutch that can handle it. Thanks guys for all the help if it wasn't for you and this forum I would not have known how to get the truck running again.

infidel

Ram Diesel Manifold Heater Problems

Diesel Dave2

Congrats on getting the old girl going....

patdaly

Congrats on getting her going. Since you changed the small terminals as well, look from the Grid Heater large terminals at the wires leading back to the battery. Those provide the 12V to the heater, and are fusible links, believe they are blue in color? Anyway, they are noted for becoming corroded, could have broken apart under the coating when you were replacing the ends.

And don't be so worried about priming her, you had a truck that hadn't run in years, a bad starter, and mucho corrosion to boot. As you learn her, you will find she isn't nearly as much of a pain to work on as when you first got her.