12 Valve Engine and Drivetrain Talk about the 12V engine and drivetrain here. This is for 1994-1998.5 engine and drivetrain discussion only.

94-98 auto vs manual differences

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Old Dec 19, 2007 | 08:16 PM
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From: Zephyrhills Fl
94-98 auto vs manual differences

I have an unusual question regarding the P7100 from 94-98. I know what the HP ratings are on them, and what the stock set-ups are(used to work on them at DODGE). But what internally if anything is different from an auto to manual besides the lift and valving of the pump? Is there any differences in the governor from one to the other? Particularly the idle governor. And if there is any differences in the way they respond to boost? And what are the differences in the camshafts if any?

I've been considering doing a CUMMINS swap in my old SUBURBAN, and I've come to the conclusion that the best choice is a 12 valve with the P7100 pump. I'm not after huge numbers for power, just reliable with GOOD milage. I would like to do whatever possible to boost the milage out of it, and to get a broader RPM operational range(closer to what my 6.5 has). I've seen a few 215HP CUMMINS for sale recently from 96-98 trucks, but don't want to get one if I'm going to have idle issues from the governor operation.

Any help is appreciated. I did do a search, but couldn't find the answers I was seeking.
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Old Dec 19, 2007 | 09:49 PM
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From: Bellingham, Wa
the cam is different in the bigger pump, i dont know the specifics, but I do know its been discussed here a few times before.

If you just want reliable power and good milage it wont matter which pump u get between a 160-215. I have a 160 pump and rarely use above 1/2 throttle, because even after 1/4 throttle it's enough to get a nice cloud going and enough to pass cars so I dont really need that on a daily basis. So really get whatever pump/engine u get a deal on because u can get good milage with any, and great power with any (the 215 pump will of course be easiest to get lots of power out of, but u can get enough with any pump) and still pull 18-20 mpg while blacking out a street on occasion, lol.
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Old Dec 19, 2007 | 10:07 PM
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From: Zephyrhills Fl
I know that I've read on here that the 96+ pumps respond better to the 4K GSK. My search did come up with people saying the 160 and 175 pumps fell somewhat flat after 3K RPM's. The camshaft i was refferrring to is the one in the engine, not the injection pump. I wish I could just get the injection pump off of my grandfathers 83L in his motorhome. He has a 300HP P7100 pump on his 8.3L. A set of 4K GSK's would make it ideal for a 5.9L for mild power.
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Old Dec 19, 2007 | 11:56 PM
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From: Wisconsin
I don't think your 6.5 reved to 4k. I have 3k gsk in my truck and it will rev to about 3400rpm. If you go to 4k kit then you better replace your valve springs and make sure you have an egt gage and use it. I presume your suburban is an automatic. If so then you probably will never see 4k with your engine. If it is a stick then that is a different story. When you run these engines that tight they run hot on the egt. Like stated before any of the engines you get will be able to produce decent power. I have the 180hp engine in my truck and with the mods I have it is somewhere in the 325-350hp range. If you want milage then you will want to keep your engine in the 250-300hp range because it will start to decline after that. For about a year I had mine at about 275hp and I could get 22-23 mpg on the open road and I got 13-14mpg towing a 12000 lb trailer. Now My milage is about 19 on the highway and I get 10-11 towing the same trailer. For that reason I am thinking about putting it back to around the 275hp. When the truck was stock it got about 19 on the highway and 15-16 in town not pulling a trailer. If your suburban does not have a locking tc it will not get as good of milage. If you go over 250hp you will need to beef up that GM trany. or you won't hold the torque of the cummins anyway. My sig is what I had for approx. 275hp, I have not updated it since doing more work to it.
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Old Dec 20, 2007 | 05:40 PM
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From: Zephyrhills Fl
My current 6.5 will rev to around 3500, then falls flat electronically(DS4 pump). I will most likely be going with either a 47RE, or a 68RFE if the aftermarket has adopted them by the time I get this done. My current 4L80E is the early style with the lighter duty components. I would be rebuilding the 5.9L I get, or at the minumum freshen it up. So the stiffer springs was already on the list. I already have full instrumentation in the SUBURBAN, so guages are taken care of.

My biggest questions regard the injection pump, and the camshaft in the engine. Did they use a different cam with a manula than an auto? And is the governor from a 215HP pump compatible with an auto? I didn't know if the internals of the pump were set-up different based on what trans. I know they differ based on HP and fuel outputs.
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Old Dec 21, 2007 | 07:28 PM
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From: Toledo,Oh
lifer,what else have you done to ypur engine to make 275 hp?I see a #10 what inj & timing to get that good mileage?
Bob
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