12 Valve Engine and Drivetrain Talk about the 12V engine and drivetrain here. This is for 1994-1998.5 engine and drivetrain discussion only.

#8 doesn't seem like enough

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Old Sep 29, 2007 | 08:35 PM
  #1  
Yellow Yota's Avatar
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#8 doesn't seem like enough

Got in contact via E-mail with TST a couple of days ago. Asked them about how far I could go with the other modifications I have planned.

Planned mods include a torque converter and valve body from Goerend, so I assumed I could get more aggressive with the fuel plate.

They replied back, still reccomending a max of a #8 plate. What's up with that?

I'm sure it'll be a noticable difference, but I really want more if I can do so safely.


Any thoughts?

Here's the E-mail I sent to them:
Quick question for you.



With the mods I have planned for my 12V 98 auto, what is the reccomended fuel plate? I want it to have as much power as I can safely, in a rig that is primarily used as a daily driver with occasional towing of loads up to 10,000 pounds. Keep in mind that I live in Oregon, where we have lots of hills. I do not want to have a truck that is a rocket on the top end without a good amount of grunt down low.

I see on your site that the max you reccomend is a #8, but I assume that is for a stock tranny. I'm curious if I can get a little more aggresive without risk.



Here's my list of mods to be done at the same time as the fuel plate:

1) Intake

2) Exhaust

3) Guages (pyro, tranny temp, boost)

4) 3000 RPM GSK

5) torque converter (triple disk, undecided on brand at this point)

6) new valve body (undecided on brand at this point)

7) adjustable boost elbow

8) your fuel plate #?





Any help or advice is appreciated.

Thanks,

Chad


Here's the response I got back from them:

We would recommend going with our #8 kit and staying away from the governor springs seeing as you would be using it for towing. The 8 is what is recommended for the stock tranny, but it would also be the best for EGT’s especially during towing steep grades. The only way we have seen to really reduce EGT’s is to go with a moderately larger turbo, which at that point you’d loose some bottom end power due to the longer spool up time of a larger turbo.



Thanks

Annette

TST Products, Inc



Didn't exactly answer my question completely.
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Old Sep 29, 2007 | 11:28 PM
  #2  
Fueling around's Avatar
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After the trany mod upgrade to GSK & #4
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Old Sep 30, 2007 | 11:05 AM
  #3  
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What's up with that?
They have to cover their butts on emission laws.
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Old Sep 30, 2007 | 06:56 PM
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Yellow Yota's Avatar
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Originally Posted by infidel
They have to cover their butts on emission laws.

Would that maybe have something to do with the recommendation to NOT use a GSK?!?!?
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Old Sep 30, 2007 | 11:54 PM
  #5  
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The GSK is the best thing ever you can do to a 12 valve. And they must never mess with timing, because my EGT's went way down with advanced timing. For what its worth, my truck setup just how it sits with the 181 delivery valves was perfect. You really had to run it HARD to get the EGT's hot, even towing.

Eric
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Old Oct 1, 2007 | 12:01 AM
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Towing is an added obstacle. Too much engine rpm and the the stock converter runs out of air and your EGRs do climb very quickly.
In this case Piers, came up with the optimum combo, GSK and #10 along with setting the governor arm. Good low rpm fueling, but a significant de-fuel at higher rpm.

A GSK is one of the best mods (including towing) if you have control of your right foot.
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