5sp vs auto opinions
5sp vs auto opinions
I sold my 99 back in August and regret has set in. I have been looking for a 12 valve for about a month now. I now have two trucks I want to look at. Luckily they are in the same area. I still can't decide whether I would rather have the auto of the 5 speed. Both trucks have close to the same milege, 144K for the stick and 150K for the auto. Both are 4x4 long bed club cab. The auto is black. The 5sp is blue. Any opinions on auto vs. 5sp. I have been reading these boards for quite a while, so I know some of the issues. I just want opinions.
they both have their issues when you start turning up the power.......the manual is okay, but the clutch is not big enough. The auto is okay, but the converter is weak. It should fall down to personal preference and driving style. Either one costs equally if you go to modify the engine above 250 or so, but both can handle that power no problem, and even a little more, given proper maintenance and driving habits.
After spending big bucks on a crate trans, I wouldn't do it again. Maybe buy a good converter, but I know my way around an automatic now, and could have built the same trans for a fraction of the cost. Spend the money on a good converter and save on everything else.......depends on your abilites though.
As far as manuals go, once you get the right (expensive) clutch set in there, I hear they're pretty tough to a point, but I'll let a manual guy say more on that.
Chris
After spending big bucks on a crate trans, I wouldn't do it again. Maybe buy a good converter, but I know my way around an automatic now, and could have built the same trans for a fraction of the cost. Spend the money on a good converter and save on everything else.......depends on your abilites though.
As far as manuals go, once you get the right (expensive) clutch set in there, I hear they're pretty tough to a point, but I'll let a manual guy say more on that.
Chris
Well, my 99 was a manual and I really got sick of shifting in traffic. But, i got used to it and now I live in an area where I can avoid the big traffic problems. My honda is a manual and I don't mind that at all; allthough it is much easier to shift than my truck. I reaaly haven't driven a CTD with auto. I don't know if I will like waiting for TC "engagement", with my manual, it seemed like the torque was there instanly when I let out the pedal. I am definitly going to drive both trucks since they are in the same town. I sure hope the 500 mile drive is worth it. I will most likely increase power with a fuel plate and GSK, maybe injectors, but that will be all. What would I be looking at for a TC & VB in an auto, or a South Bend in a manual?
john
john
there are several VB and TC combos out there, and each manufacturer has their own reasons for their design....triple disk, single disk, high pressure, low pressure....blah, blah, blah. My sig shows who I got mine from. I like it alot, but am not hi HP yet.....time will tell. And I'm sure other guys' trans perform as well or better or worse.....who knows. It's alot in how you drive 'em.
regarding waiting for the lock-up vs a manual's on tap power as ludwick_j points out.......I agree. I don't care how "magic" a converter is......direct hook-up feels like the best power transfer!! My solution?? Here goes the debate.......I have my controller set to lock-up at 5 mph. The VB doesn't care what gear it's in....it locks. Most of the time this is in first. Then the trans shifts lock to lock and the torque is there buddy without having to pull on a stick. The controller is a little late to disengage the clutch on the decel, so it chatters a little. To solve this, I adjusted the "B" setting on my true speed to fake out the controller into letting go of the converter at a little higher speed. This "B" setting is only in the loop when the accelerator pedal is in full retract mode via a microswitch, twitch your toe and the switch opens, which allows for good e-braking without disengaging the converter too early. Otherwise, default setting is "A".....normal speed sensor output. I love my auto when it transmits power like a stick. I know the criticisms about shifting lock to lock, and I'm sure they'll chime in here at any time. There is a certain amount of driver responsibility that goes with any driving style.....I'm sure a clutch and the gears in a NV4500 or 5600 can take a thrashing as well if you drive them like a hemi 'cuda. I have a driving style that eases the shift timing and doesn't bang the gear as hard as a "to the wood" run does. Anyway.....direct power transfer CAN be had with an auto if it is set-up right and driven the "right" way
.
I am not partial to eith er auto or manual...I got dealt an auto, but made it perform like a manual.....so I have the best of both worlds.
I wouldn't let the trans make your decision unless EVERYTHING else is equal. Both varieties cost a little jingle to make 'em handle power. It's 6 to one, half dozen to the other in my book.
Chris
regarding waiting for the lock-up vs a manual's on tap power as ludwick_j points out.......I agree. I don't care how "magic" a converter is......direct hook-up feels like the best power transfer!! My solution?? Here goes the debate.......I have my controller set to lock-up at 5 mph. The VB doesn't care what gear it's in....it locks. Most of the time this is in first. Then the trans shifts lock to lock and the torque is there buddy without having to pull on a stick. The controller is a little late to disengage the clutch on the decel, so it chatters a little. To solve this, I adjusted the "B" setting on my true speed to fake out the controller into letting go of the converter at a little higher speed. This "B" setting is only in the loop when the accelerator pedal is in full retract mode via a microswitch, twitch your toe and the switch opens, which allows for good e-braking without disengaging the converter too early. Otherwise, default setting is "A".....normal speed sensor output. I love my auto when it transmits power like a stick. I know the criticisms about shifting lock to lock, and I'm sure they'll chime in here at any time. There is a certain amount of driver responsibility that goes with any driving style.....I'm sure a clutch and the gears in a NV4500 or 5600 can take a thrashing as well if you drive them like a hemi 'cuda. I have a driving style that eases the shift timing and doesn't bang the gear as hard as a "to the wood" run does. Anyway.....direct power transfer CAN be had with an auto if it is set-up right and driven the "right" way
.I am not partial to eith er auto or manual...I got dealt an auto, but made it perform like a manual.....so I have the best of both worlds.
I wouldn't let the trans make your decision unless EVERYTHING else is equal. Both varieties cost a little jingle to make 'em handle power. It's 6 to one, half dozen to the other in my book.
Chris
if ur into performance and fun then go 5 speed...if ur a sloppy driver and dont maintain tranny fluids and like to abuse trannies then go 5 speed as well...if u like burning rubber with ur friends in parking lots then go 5 speed as well....ONE performance clutch and one quick fix of the 5th gear nut will have u set for quite a while.....but if u have money to boot on auto tranny parts then once u go with a beefy auto tranny u'll be very happy and u'll pull anything u want while drinking ur coffee reading ur map and chatting on ur cellphone
i like shifting and i like to pretend like im driving a big rig and i regret not waiting longer for a 5 speed but they're extremely hard to get....u have an apportunity to get one id say jump on it
i like shifting and i like to pretend like im driving a big rig and i regret not waiting longer for a 5 speed but they're extremely hard to get....u have an apportunity to get one id say jump on it
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I have the manual..
I have the banks powerpack and i have a major flaw in the stock clutch.. they are a pain in the A**! i had to set my plate back and slightly defuel the truck the clutch slips rather easily.. BUt i couldnt afford the southbend... The autos have the same issues as already said with the TQ converter.. I wish i had an auto sometimes, i get tired of shifting and after a long day of school and work would just like to put it in drive and go, but i love my manual for the towing control and more wheel spin/speed control.. so its a good and bad with both, its your call,
TxDiesel007
I have the banks powerpack and i have a major flaw in the stock clutch.. they are a pain in the A**! i had to set my plate back and slightly defuel the truck the clutch slips rather easily.. BUt i couldnt afford the southbend... The autos have the same issues as already said with the TQ converter.. I wish i had an auto sometimes, i get tired of shifting and after a long day of school and work would just like to put it in drive and go, but i love my manual for the towing control and more wheel spin/speed control.. so its a good and bad with both, its your call,
TxDiesel007
The way I see it is that I can spend about 3 for a dual disc SBC clutch and have no warranty or a little over 3 for a Goerend modified tranny (100k warranty) with triple disc torque converter with lifetime warranty on it. The $500 difference between the two is negligable difference IMO.
Manual:
More RPM Control
Exhaust Brake Friendly
Clutch is to small, needs expensive clutch to hold good power
Hurts 0-60 Speeds
5th wheel nut on NV4500
Having to watch bogging motor
Auto:
RPM Control with modifications
Exhaust Brake with modifications
Needs torque converter and valve body to hold good power.
Shifts much faster, no problems in traffic or pause between gears to hurt 0-60, never need a BOV valve
Having to watch tranny temps
Manual:
More RPM Control
Exhaust Brake Friendly
Clutch is to small, needs expensive clutch to hold good power
Hurts 0-60 Speeds
5th wheel nut on NV4500
Having to watch bogging motor
Auto:
RPM Control with modifications
Exhaust Brake with modifications
Needs torque converter and valve body to hold good power.
Shifts much faster, no problems in traffic or pause between gears to hurt 0-60, never need a BOV valve
Having to watch tranny temps
I was manual all the way till i ended up with my auto. I really like it so far. It needs some work to it to get it to hold the power, as my TC slips, but with the lockup switch it sure can be fun to drive, and will smoke any 5 speed that has even quite a bit more power than i make. Auto's are just much faster, and it is nice in town. I dont like it the best when i pull loads int he summer, but i have a feeling once i get a better torque converter with a low stall, clutches,and seals, i will really like it pulling, since you are always in the power. Just get the one you want. I cant complain with how my auto has held out do far. The transgo shift kit really helped, and if you get an auto do a fluid/filter change as soon as possible because that really helped mine a lot too.
Eric
Eric
here's how I see it... with 150k on it, the stock auto already has a fair amount of wear on it... so in order to beef it up, you're pretty much looking at a full rebuild on top of whatever hot rod parts you put on there...
you only want to do something like that once, you you might as well do it right...
so plan on $3000-4000 to upgrade the automatic tranny.
with the manual?
$1000 on a clutch, and you're holding probably as much power as you're gonna need to hold.
my original NV4500 has over 240k on it, and although I'd like to put new synchros in it just to make shifting quicker and smoother, it doesn't grind or anything, so I just keep on driving. and those haven't been "easy" miles
my local tranny parts distribution center sells bearing/synchro kits for the NV4500 for just shy of $200.
Forrest
you only want to do something like that once, you you might as well do it right...
so plan on $3000-4000 to upgrade the automatic tranny.
with the manual?
$1000 on a clutch, and you're holding probably as much power as you're gonna need to hold.
my original NV4500 has over 240k on it, and although I'd like to put new synchros in it just to make shifting quicker and smoother, it doesn't grind or anything, so I just keep on driving. and those haven't been "easy" miles
my local tranny parts distribution center sells bearing/synchro kits for the NV4500 for just shy of $200.
Forrest
Anything above 500hp and the price for the manual with a dual disc and billet is about the same as a modified auto tranny with all new seals and upgrades. The auto may get a little less mileage though, but once the tranny is modified it should bring things closer.
you can hold more than 500hp with a single disk... and for what it's worth, you can get a dual disk and input shaft for $2000-2500.
but I'm betting he's not looking for that kind of power based on his post.
if you're looking to eventually build a drag racer, get the automatic... for dang near anything else, I'd get the 5sp.
Forrest
but I'm betting he's not looking for that kind of power based on his post.
if you're looking to eventually build a drag racer, get the automatic... for dang near anything else, I'd get the 5sp.
Forrest
I love the 5 speed......
If you want to drag race get an auto and then modify....
If you drive a ton of continous stop and go traffic, get an auto.
The 5 speed shifts great for a truck tranny but they just weren't meant to drag race.
But you just can't beat them for towing, egine breaking and putting a big smile on your face.
If you want to drag race get an auto and then modify....
If you drive a ton of continous stop and go traffic, get an auto.
The 5 speed shifts great for a truck tranny but they just weren't meant to drag race.
But you just can't beat them for towing, egine breaking and putting a big smile on your face.


