Is this a fairly easy install, That a I guess you would say a novice mechanic could do?The biggest thing I'v done to one is replace the vp44 on Dad's truck,Im new to all this but very eager to learn,But dont want to mess anything up in the process..Thanks for You'r help.

 

Very easy. Just make sure to take your time and don't miss any steps. Save the OEM springs in a zip lock bag... you will never use them again believe me, but if you sell the truck its a nice gesture to send them with.

Big Jimmy

 

Thats not true. The big gov spring works well as an AFC spring.

 

Allright,thanks guy's,I was looking at a thread on the install and it looked pretty straight forward,looks like another chance to get dirty!,Thanks

 

What made you go with a 3K over a 4k. Was it the valve springs? I am wanting to order the parts to put in my 12V. I have heard that the 4K is better and actually offers more fueling, but I have also heard of idle issue's with the 4K and not the 3K

 

You can run a 4k all day without valve springs, just dont take it over 3200 rpms. These engines do not rev that fast so it is easy to control. The 4k does have better low end fueling and you don't have to dig into the pump again when you say "I wish I went with a 4k kit". I put more than a few 4k kits in and none of them and idle trouble... 5k kits have idle trouble.

If you are digging into the pump, I'd say go with the 4k.

 

My 3k came with a third inner spring to go up to 4k if need be, from DDP. They say you need a depth indicator to measure top of hold down stud to bottom of nut for tension setting, which I used, but if you are mechanically inclined at all its pretty east to set it back. One more "click" felt like way too much on mine, and one less was way too loose.

 

Excellent instructions> http://www.pacbrake.com/PDF/L5658.PDF

 

Ok,so i dont have to get the valve springs right off,just control the rpms? if thats it then i will for sure go with the 4k,and then a little later put in the valve springs.and thanks Bill those are great!