so im going to get my 3gsk put in thursday or friday, but what should i look for rpm wise? to what rpm should it let you reach with it installed? any things i should look for after its installed like dont let it rev past a certain rpm? any imput on anything about the gsk would be great

 

to remove the retainer nuts, i took and old chisel, ground it flat, then ground out the middle part of it, crude but works.
Make sure you have the vermier caliper, alot of people say that counting clicks can work, i tried that method, and to this day, I still have idle issues.

 

Smokeyram is totally right. I used both clicks and calipers and the clicks were not correct.. The caliper saved my lunch as I had to adjust both sides about 2 clicks from where the stockers "counted" from. Measure twice!

Once you get them it, it will drive totally different. The GSK doesn't just change the top end number but the entire torque range..

If you think about it the governor arm only travels so far on the plate. So the GSK makes the governor take longer to travel up the plate. For me the mid range power on the #10 that was between 1700 and 2500 is now stretched out from about 1700 to over 3000 before it defuels. WOT went from 2900 in 5th gear to well over 3300..

 

thanks, i have a 0 plate on a stock auto tranny which i know is a no-no but i love it plus im about to upgrade the tranny. with the 3k and a 0 plate will it eat the converter up? if i have to i will put the plate back in since i have it still, if i do have to put the plate back in tho, what number could i grind it to and not have it eat up the converter?

 

I've always had better luck going through the side of the pump to install the gsk. It sucks to have to remove the shock, shock tower & fuel shutoff soleniod, but it gives you peace of mind that you will be less likely to drop a shim or spring down into the pump. As far as counting clicks vs. calipers, I've always counted the "turns" it takes to get the retainers off. The last 2 I've done have worked perfectly right after startup. I'm going to be installing a set in my new truck here very soon. Hopefully it works out as well as the last 2 :knocksonwood:

MIke

 

Best way to save your converter..... your right foot. Takes a little restraint not to just stab it to the floor, but the go by feel is the easiest way to save your parts.

 

The Dog is right on.
Hard to resist breaking the tires loose every once in awhile but every time you do gets you closer to tranny death.

 

I went through the top. I can't even see the plug on the side of the pump. Only downside is that the idle spring won't fit through the top, so I had to have my little mechanical fingers hang onto it while I pulled the shims out of the bottom.

 

you really shouldnt hurt it if you drive it right.. ive been runing on the stock trans for a while now (a college student trying to get money is darn near impossible) with a 3 gsk and my trans is ok. I suggest a few things onces its done. 1. dont rev the crap out of it while its in park it will go right past 3000 rpm and go in to valve float territory (did that by accident) 2. If you have gauges (which you should have since u added a fuel plate) your going to find that up top now that you have more rpm theres going to be more heat so watch that egt gauge. 3. if you have enough fuel (i dont think you do but added mods will do this) you will be able to go right past 3200 and thats again valve float territory so if you plan on consistantly doing it id get valve springs (only 110 bucks for 12 but on only need 6)

 

MDKRam did my F-I-L's truck through the top.. I did mine through the side. I was more worried about dropping a shim from the top, so the side made it less of an issue. I wish I would have found the drain plug on the back of governor before I started, pretty messy..

 

thanks 97-d-tec for the info but i hear ya on tryin to get money im still in school too

 

I just did my 3gsk two weeks ago. I bought my springs from PDR and followed the instructions they sent. Same as these
http://www.cumminsdatabase.com/read.php?id=30

I never removed the shock and shock tower, I measured and marked as the instructions stated and my idle didn't change at all. It was not very difficult. Have something under the truck to catch the oil that will come out of the plug nut when you remove it. I used the bolts on the damper to rotate the engine to get to the springs on the other side.

The truck is way more fun to drive now.

 

if you put them in to tight your throttle will be REAL touchy and it will make the truck jerk when your towing. thats what happened to me. i went in and backed them off one click and the truck drives awesome now