1996 dodge cummins mods on a budget.
02-17-2012, 07:43 PM
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1996 dodge cummins mods on a budget.
I have a stock 1996 dodge 2500 4x4 with 120 thousand miles on it. I was wondering what mods to do to the truck that will give me more power and mpg. Im thinking intake, exhaust, fuel plate and maybe some gauges. I use the truck everyday so i dont want to mod it out to much and i dont have alot to spend on the truck just like 1500 to 2000. I do pull with the truck quite abit in the summer so im just wondering what companies i should look at to get a good cheap intake and exhaust? The intake im a little nervous about because i drive on alot of dirt roads so i dont want to get one that is going to dust my engin. So what should i get?
02-17-2012, 09:41 PM
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Address your transmission first, if you have an auto you'll need to upgrade your valve bodies and torque converter. For manual you'll need a clutch. For the free mods your stock trans will hold but they will not like it at all. Next is a nice set of guages, EGT, boost, FP etc. Then you can tear into your pump, tune the afc, put a plate of your choice in or just tear it out. And probably the most effective mod is the 4gsk, it will wake your truck up ten fold. For intake Id just mod my stock airbox or spend $40 on a bhaf. Throw a 4" exhaust on and have fun, your truck will be a completely different animal. Theres a few write ups floating around the interwebs for real afc tuning, ill try to find them and post em for ya.
02-19-2012, 08:43 PM
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I have that clutch. My next clutch will probably be SB as they have good service, but that one is not enough clutch if you are looking at any serious mods. With a plate, boost elbow, and GSK I find myself worrying about it. I have not added injectors or turbo because of the limit of the clutch. Given another try at it, I would, and soon will, go with a higher rated dual disc that will allow for light launches in 3rd gear. Drag racing with the manual is tough when shifting from 2nd to 3rd, and I know leaving in 3rd would be much quicker. If you can promise yourself you will stay away from turbos and injectors you will be fine, but I found I had lied to myself.
Good luck.
As far as modding the pump, and getting cranking on your truck, try the wiki at the top of this page. It has many useful articles.
Also try this : Awesome beginner thread number 1.
And this : Awesome beginner thread number 2.
Good luck.
As far as modding the pump, and getting cranking on your truck, try the wiki at the top of this page. It has many useful articles.
Also try this : Awesome beginner thread number 1.
And this : Awesome beginner thread number 2.
02-20-2012, 12:42 PM
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02-21-2012, 01:29 PM
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I think the cheapest mod I've done so far is my home-ground zero plate. All you have to do is pull the plate from the AFC and grind the profile flat completely. Infidel has a picture of the different plate profiles in his photo gallery that are helpful.
When you do your plate, you may as well do a 3k GSK kit. The difference is mind blowing, and it's only $100 or so. Don't play around by shimming the inside springs (yes, it's extremely cheap, but as others have pointed out the internals of the pump are planetary, and having uneven weights of washers could cause some serious damage).
Like others have said, guages should be the first purchase, followed by exhaust and BHAF with a prefilter IMO. I wouldn't bother with a "cold air intake kit" because there are a million inefficient nooks and crannies that reduce airflow considerably in these engines. After that, you can consider upgrading your torque converter and valve body.
When you do your plate, you may as well do a 3k GSK kit. The difference is mind blowing, and it's only $100 or so. Don't play around by shimming the inside springs (yes, it's extremely cheap, but as others have pointed out the internals of the pump are planetary, and having uneven weights of washers could cause some serious damage).
Like others have said, guages should be the first purchase, followed by exhaust and BHAF with a prefilter IMO. I wouldn't bother with a "cold air intake kit" because there are a million inefficient nooks and crannies that reduce airflow considerably in these engines. After that, you can consider upgrading your torque converter and valve body.
03-10-2012, 01:40 PM
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Your right foot is the determining factor in fuel economy. A ground plate just means you have to be more careful with that foot when running through the gears. I'm a big fan of a #10 plate and a properly tuned AFC. Better power delivery and less smoke and just plain more fun to drive.
03-10-2012, 05:18 PM
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x2 on the 400hp southbend clutch. while i appreciate sb quality that clutch has 3 different ratings anywhere from 350-400 hp @800tq. with my mods it just isnt enuf even though its way better than stock. i would do a 450-500hp single dics valair next time or find the money to do a sb dual disc. trust me no fuel plate puts out loads of tq and u wont b happy with it. not bashing sb, but myself 
and i though i still had room for 5x12s and a 62.....
and i though i still had room for 5x12s and a 62.....
03-10-2012, 08:13 PM
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I have a single disk south bend in mine that I put in used when I did the nv 4500 conversion and couldn't be happier, never a sign of slippage and it sure doesn't get babied! Not sure what it's rated at however. The next clutch will be a dual disk, supposed to be not so grabby