12V. vs. 24V power
12V. vs. 24V power
Following the advice of some members, I moved this over here to see what to do. I have this 96' 3500 4 x 4 with a 5 speed and a 01 2500 with an auto. I just bought the 96'. Question is: The 96' seems to feel sluggish compared to my 01', it still goes but seems to "level off" in power at about 2200 rpm. My 01' will spin the rear tires ( granted they aren't all that good of tires) from a stop if I hammer it, while the 96' seems to be sluggish. I just wondered if it was a difference in the motor, or if maybe I should look for something causing this. I don't know much about the 12V motors, hell I don't know much about the 24s either but I'm learning. As for the cat, I think it is original with 216k on it, plus I just read about the pre-filter screen, so I will tackle that next also. But I think that cat has to go. Both trucks are stock, so I would like to "play with the 96' as much as possible, since it is out of warranty by a long shot. So any info you have would be greatly appreciated. I crawled under it to check the cat out and what I saw was a smaller "muffler" with a tapered end towards the front of the truck ( I assume the cat ) and the large round muffler behind it. As far as I'm concerned both of them are just addding weight to the truck.
Am I on the right track?
Thanks,
Cole
Am I on the right track?Thanks,
Cole
Re:12V. vs. 24V power
I'm surprized that the cat hasn't plugged by now. It is the tapered thing you saw. Also I was wondering if the '96 smokes when it is cold (white) and it is an eye burning smoke. I am leaning towards timing to be a potential problem. Another thing to chech is the overflow valve. Try the simlpe things first and see how it goes. As far as smoking the tires, I can't do that unless I really really try hard. Even then it is kind of iffy.
Tom
Tom
Re:12V. vs. 24V power
Thanks MnTom,
Only my 01 will break em loose from a stop, and its an auto, but stock. When it's cold out they both will give me eye burning exhaust until they warm up. I love it.
Cole
Only my 01 will break em loose from a stop, and its an auto, but stock. When it's cold out they both will give me eye burning exhaust until they warm up. I love it.
Cole
Re:12V. vs. 24V power
If the smoke is a raw fuel smelling eye burning excessive smoke then look for other symptoms of timing. Does it run a little rough when cold or possibly even miss until it warms some? These were known for the timing to slowly retard. When I retimed mine it made a big differance. It started better, ran better, EGT's ran cooler, AND BEST OF ALL fuel mileage increased. Also the pyro dropped quicker when idleing.
Tom
Tom
Re:12V. vs. 24V power
[quote author=MOSTWANTED link=board=16;threadid=20944;start=0#msg196525 date=1066100877]
I agree with tom,
After ditching the cat. I would slide the plate and look into some governor spring tricks to give it a better throttle response.
just me .02
[/quote]
tricks ;D is that what you call them
DM01
I agree with tom,
After ditching the cat. I would slide the plate and look into some governor spring tricks to give it a better throttle response.
just me .02
[/quote]
tricks ;D is that what you call them
DM01
Re:12V. vs. 24V power
The 96 should blow the doors off the 01, if the differential ratios are close to the same. I would also suggest the 96's timing is too retarded, it happens because Cummins failed to properly tighten the timing gear nut and they slowly slip back over time.
Follow MnTom's advice on getting the cat dumped and getting the engine retimed.
Then go through your fuel system and make sure all your hoses are new (including the hoses on top of the fuel tank) and properly clamped with compression bands, not air plane type screw hose clamps. Get the kit from Cummins with the screen for the fuel heater and also replace those seals, pull the fuel heater plug and fill it with dielectric grease and plug it back together to take care of any small air leaks. Replace your filters (air and fuel), then check your overflow valve on the inside of the injection pump, next to the head, to be sure it does not have a broken spring.
Set the timing up to at least 13.5 degrees, and then run some Hydrotex injector cleaner through the fuel system for a couple of tanks to clean the tars out of your injectors.
Follow MnTom's advice on getting the cat dumped and getting the engine retimed.
Then go through your fuel system and make sure all your hoses are new (including the hoses on top of the fuel tank) and properly clamped with compression bands, not air plane type screw hose clamps. Get the kit from Cummins with the screen for the fuel heater and also replace those seals, pull the fuel heater plug and fill it with dielectric grease and plug it back together to take care of any small air leaks. Replace your filters (air and fuel), then check your overflow valve on the inside of the injection pump, next to the head, to be sure it does not have a broken spring.
Set the timing up to at least 13.5 degrees, and then run some Hydrotex injector cleaner through the fuel system for a couple of tanks to clean the tars out of your injectors.
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Re:12V. vs. 24V power
Hey Guys,
Thanks for all the replies and help. I forgot to mention that it has a 4:10 rearend and she also has 216,000 miles on it. I towed with it the other day it it seemed fine. I am going to do all of those things you guys suggested and see if it helps. As far as timing the pump, is it difficult?, or should I leave it to a shop. I consider myself mechanically able, and have enough tools to do about anything. I've never played with a diesel engine though.
Thanks again
Cole
Thanks for all the replies and help. I forgot to mention that it has a 4:10 rearend and she also has 216,000 miles on it. I towed with it the other day it it seemed fine. I am going to do all of those things you guys suggested and see if it helps. As far as timing the pump, is it difficult?, or should I leave it to a shop. I consider myself mechanically able, and have enough tools to do about anything. I've never played with a diesel engine though.
Thanks again
Cole
Re:12V. vs. 24V power
Setting the timing is not all that hard. HeckI even mannaged to do it. BUT the price of the tools makes taking it to a shop a good if not better alternative.
Tom
Tom
Re:12V. vs. 24V power
BUT the price of the tools makes taking it to a shop a good if not better alternative.
Re:12V. vs. 24V power
I read somewhere here that Snap-On sells the kits. If thats true then I used to work for a Snap-On dealer here and could probably get a decent deal on one. I would like to do it myself, just cause I like doing things myself, must be a guy thing. Anyhow if you guys know if they sell the kits, let me know and I will try it on my own. Again, thanks for all the help with this "differently" valved truck. BTW, I fixed the E-Brake and now I drive it more than my 01' just cause it's noisier and more fun
Re:12V. vs. 24V power
The timing kit is pn #500 and cost about $200. The only other tool you will need is a baring tool. You may want to consider a fuel plate kit from TST
, comes with a video on how to install.It will put a big ;D ;D on your face for around $250. Let us know how it goes.
, comes with a video on how to install.It will put a big ;D ;D on your face for around $250. Let us know how it goes.


