Sidewinder

When I was adjusting the TPS I used a paperclip but I put it in from the back of the connector the same way the wire goes in. You have to push it in so it will make a connection by touching some of the wire inside the connector. If you use a thin paperclip it just slides in past the rubber beside the wire. I can even leave it in there when doing test runs but I always remove it before driving.

cumminsdriver635

GUYS, I cant thank you enough for the help. I adjusted it from .850 at idle stock to about 1.020, and it shifts quite a bit better, but the main thing is how much better the Torque converter holds!!!!! It used to slip in 2nd gear when i used my mystery switch AWFUL, but i just did a test run after the truck was warm, and it only slip just a little bit now right when it gets wound out. I havent had it in overdrive yet on the road, but it used to slip bad just over half throttle when i was trying to get going. Im hoping that now it will just barely slip if it does at all. I thuink im also going to knock out the pins, and get the voltage a little higher than it is now, so that maybe it wont slip at all!!!! Are the metal pins around the outside of the bolts? I know i seem really excited, but its because i am!!! You would understand if your torque converter slipped as bad as mine did. Thanks again for all your help guys! This is a great site.

Eric

Sidewinder

If you are asking about the "metal pins" on the TPS, they are actually inside of the holes that mount the TPS to the bracket. You have to remove the TPS from the truck and then you can just lightly tap or press them out. Removing them allows you to get a little more adjustment by letting the TPS rotate on the bolts. Some have even suggested making the holes slightly slotted if necessary to get the right voltage. Now you got me excited. I can't wait to try the adjustments on mine once my starter is fixed.

cumminsdriver635

Ill have to try that. Main thing it fixed for me was TC slip. It did improve WOT shifting too though. I stomped it from a stop, and took off burning both tires, and then it made a nice smooth quick shift to second. I still need to remove the pins though. I was only getting like 3.5 volts at WOT though. What gives? I checked bot the outside connectors, and got about 4.8 volts, so i dont know what the deal with that is. Thanks again. Good luck with the starter, my dad, uncle, and cousin both had the same problems with their CTD's.

Eric

infidel

3.5 is the minimum, 5 volts is the maximum needed.

cumminsdriver635

Well, my TC still slips bad enough, but it might have helped a little. IS 3.5 volts OK though, or do i need more? Could my TPS be bad? Will 1.2-1.4 volts be much better than the 1 volt im getting at idle right now? I pulled out the pins, but may oblong the holes. Thanks again.

Eric

infidel

Did you read this?



Posted to a TPS thread on the TDRoundtable by Bill Kondolay (Bill is one the true transmission experts out there):


Before anyone follows advice on how to adjust the TPS keep in mind that every action has a reaction. You can adjust the TPS voltage to pretty much what ever you want without following Chryslers procedures. Before starting, always record your original idle voltage; you must have a baseline to start from.
Make adjustments in small increments. First remove the TPS, knock out the 2 steel sleeves, with a small file oblong the holes, and install the tps sensor. Always start with the original voltage you had; as you increase your voltage your OD and TCC lock up will start to come in later and later. The down side of doing this is that when you slow down or if you remove your foot from the throttle, the TCC will not unlock unless you step on the brake pedal or your vehicle speed drops below a certain setting.

From http://dodgeram.org/tech/transmissio...TPS_adjust.htm

kandgo

On the TPS adjustment, I have been tinkering with mine,for the last three days on and off, I have had better luck with delaying the shift somewhat with higher settings with no problems on the down shift, Now for the problem I started with, as the TC was going in and out,Cleaned the TPS and all connections, cleaned the switch at brake, and the Trans switches, the problem went away only when I took the TPS wires out of the wiring harness, It was a bit of a chore but alas!! No more TC shifting in and out problems. There is a fellow who sells the rewire kit,but for the money I would recommend just taking it out of the harness and you will pay yourself about $15 per hr as it takes about 2 hrs to do it and put it all back together. If this is your problem I hope this will help. If yours is a shifting problem then adjust the volts and measure the 5 inches and take small adjustments at a time and test, I was adjusting mine for the 3rd to 4th shift with the volts. Goodluck,,, Rick

Sidewinder

I tried again to adjust the linkage for the throttle/TPS but I seem to have a problem. With all of the adjustment used up on the TPS to throttle rod I can only get a measurement of about 4-3/4" at the TPS not the 5" as in the diagram. To make things even more complicated if I adjust the rod there I can only get 0.45 volts on the TPS, this is with the sleeves removed and elongated holes. When its adjusted like this the engine pulls really good but the tranny doesn't shift right (hangs at 2500 RPM before each shift, very erratic TC lockup). If I lengthen the rod so the measurement is about 4" I can adjust the TPS to 1.2 volts and the tranny shifts good but I have no power. I can't seem to win.

I did notice a bit of play on the ball and socket joints so I will replace them but its not enough to make up the lost 1/4". Am I missing something here? Is there another adjustment I need to check?

infidel

Sidewinder, when you mess with the linkage adjustment you are also messing with the throttle valve cable adjustment. Until you get the linkage back to 5" things will not work correctly.

kd460

Hey Rick, can you post or even start a new topic on "how to" separate the TPS wires from the rest of the harness. What colors are the wires, any obstructions, etc. What did you do with the TPS wires once they were separated? Did you run a separate wire loom next to the factory loom? I imagine you had to cut some zip ties, tape etc. Any red flags, tips, boo-boo's etc. Thanks, Kevin

kandgo

Yes, I will kd460 tonight, Hey sidwinder be sure you are measuring from the back side of the bracket and not catching the rubber gromet, the adjustment is in very small increments on the volts, You do not state your mileage,so I cannot say for sure but I doubt your ball and joint sockets are worn to a degree of needing replaced, Now I might think that maybe somewhere along the line they could of gotten bent?? I made the mistake too about not measuring on the back of the bracket as I was catching the rubber grommet. If this is your mistake also as I hope it is,because if it is not you most likely have everything out of adjustment. As the TPs can be varied up and down from the voltage needed for it to work properly with out changing the other arms, it takes very little to do the volt adjustment, I also have noted that it helps greatly to clean the entire assembley with di-electric solvent such as methanol or any di-elect. spray solvent, I got mine at the local parts house O'rielys, it was made by CRC and the main ingredient was methanol. It was a bit difficult to get mine right where it needed to be before cleaning the whole tps with it. If you have the TPs adjusted and are able to get to 2500 rpms that is about the top of your fueling{as your signature states you are stock} that leads one to start thinking about the Governor solenoid and pressur sensor in the transmission. Goodluck, and hope you get it all adjusted right. Rick

Sidewinder

Kandgo,

I was measuring from the front of the bracket so I will check it from the back. My truck has 190000 miles on it so it's ***** are quite worn and loose .

I don't think there is a problem with the tranny because if I adjust the TPS voltage high enough it shifts great, only when I do this I have no power because the throttle linkage is too long.

I have it at a setting in between right now, linkage at 4.5" and TPS at 0.75 volts. Thats the best I can do right now. I will also check for bent linkages. The catch is that if I increase one the other goes down. It seems to shift best with the TPS at about 1.10 volts but best power is with the linkage as long as possible (close to 5.0"). I think I will leave it where it is for now and wait for some warmer weather.

Thanks for the help!

cumminsdriver635

Did it help your truck shift any faster on WOT runs? What im asking, is, does it keep it lower in the rpm range where the torque is? Thanks.

Eric

kandgo

I am certain that the wires need to come out of the harness,as they are in my mind to small of gauge to carry the current when rubbing and enclosed with all the other ones as they tend to either give or take some interference,which leads me to believe that when you set your volts correctly it fluctuates up or down in volts when the truck is started and moving and then causes the tps to act up. As I stated above , I took them out of the harness and wraped them in thier own harness from the pcm to the tps and have never had a problem since. As far as taking them out of the harness I started at the plug and worked up and across the harness any where from 6 to 10 inches at a time, breeched the harness and took a dental tool with a curve and fished the wire out so I could pull it the 6 to 10 inches, just do not force it, if it does not come easy, shorten your breech distance, It also helps when in the breech area to take the dental pick or whatever and cut the black tape a few inches both ways,{do not use a razor blade !!!!}after it was all out to the pcm I just enclosed it in its own harness and zip tied it back across and plugged it in and guess what?? When I went and checked the volts once again I had to readjust with the wires out of the harness, so go figure, they do indeed fluctuate in the harness, when you first breech the harness you will be amazed at the amount of wires in there, Goodluck to all and you will have sore fingers but no more tps voltage fluctuation and hopefully no more TConvertor problems, There are three wires the black will run up and to the left towards the front of the engine it is a common ground the other two will go all the way to the PCM. If you do not want to tackle the harness you can just look at the wire colors of yours and go to the pcm and cut and add wire back to the TPS plug just be sure to take the black out the 6 to 8 inches up and to the left. Hey sidewinder be sure when measuring from the back to not catch the rubber on the back side as this will lead to wrong measurement. Goodluck,, Rick