12 Valve power loss??
#1
12 Valve power loss??
A friend of mine is having some probs with a truck any other Ideas???
96 12valve 5spd 215 pump. 65k on the odo.
Installed 370's, 100plate, 3000GSK and the truck ran great lots of power smoke and heat. Slipped stock clutch easily, could peg 1600* at will and smoke with the best of them until last week when power suddenly dropped off. Now its a struggle to get to 1400* and it puffs a little black smoke with a little white/grey smoke.
Here is a list of whats been checked with symptoms:
Timing set at 16 and has not slipped
Governor arm is hitting the plate (power still down with plate removed completely)
New fuel filter
Cleaned Sediment bowl
New Overflow Valve
Fuel pressure is OK, little high, 28-32 at idle close to 40 at 2000rpm
AFC is working
Valves recently adjusted
2 full tanks of fuel from 2 different stations with gobs of stanadyne
Boost is 40psi with adjustable elbow installed (no boost reading before problem started)
Idle is a little more shakey than before
What else is there to look for. Next step is to check the supply and return lines for kinks and drop the tank to check the pickup for a clog or debris.
Any tips or ideas on what to test/check/look for that could case this?
96 12valve 5spd 215 pump. 65k on the odo.
Installed 370's, 100plate, 3000GSK and the truck ran great lots of power smoke and heat. Slipped stock clutch easily, could peg 1600* at will and smoke with the best of them until last week when power suddenly dropped off. Now its a struggle to get to 1400* and it puffs a little black smoke with a little white/grey smoke.
Here is a list of whats been checked with symptoms:
Timing set at 16 and has not slipped
Governor arm is hitting the plate (power still down with plate removed completely)
New fuel filter
Cleaned Sediment bowl
New Overflow Valve
Fuel pressure is OK, little high, 28-32 at idle close to 40 at 2000rpm
AFC is working
Valves recently adjusted
2 full tanks of fuel from 2 different stations with gobs of stanadyne
Boost is 40psi with adjustable elbow installed (no boost reading before problem started)
Idle is a little more shakey than before
What else is there to look for. Next step is to check the supply and return lines for kinks and drop the tank to check the pickup for a clog or debris.
Any tips or ideas on what to test/check/look for that could case this?
#2
Registered User
Was the timing checked before or after the power loss?
It's fairly common for the timing to slip after a hp increase if the timing gear nut isn't torqued enough or the shaft wasn't totally clean.
It's fairly common for the timing to slip after a hp increase if the timing gear nut isn't torqued enough or the shaft wasn't totally clean.
#4
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Austin, TX, Toronto, ON
Posts: 1,488
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
bad injector or injectors...melted pistons? 1600 degrees is very high...cracked/leaking fuel lines?...double check that plate and the gov arm...the stock plates can be soft and easy to chew after they're grinded
#6
Originally posted by John Faughn
I'ld 2nd that on the high temps should be not more than1150-1200 to play safe.
I'ld 2nd that on the high temps should be not more than1150-1200 to play safe.
Trending Topics
#9
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Western IL
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Check the fuel return check valve on the pump your symtoms are not much different than mine were when my return valve died.
If you have a temp gauge available check the temps at each cylinder (pre turbo) if you melted something inside the bad cylinder will be much colder than the others. This trick will also help find a clogged injector.
If you have a temp gauge available check the temps at each cylinder (pre turbo) if you melted something inside the bad cylinder will be much colder than the others. This trick will also help find a clogged injector.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
RHC
3rd Gen Engine and Drivetrain -> 2003-2007
4
08-12-2019 03:32 PM