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Replacing Injectors today...

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Old Oct 8, 2011 | 08:22 AM
  #1  
cgoaks77's Avatar
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From: Brownfield, TX
Replacing Injectors today...

...wondering if anybody had any tips or tricks that I would need to know. I'm pretty sure that I can do it with no problem, but...
Could someone fill me in on the torque specs for the tubes, cross bars, and anything else I might need and have trouble finding?

Thanks Ya'll
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Old Oct 8, 2011 | 09:30 AM
  #2  
Mclair's Avatar
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From: Indiana
I just did them got them form JL Machine they are top noch to deal with just use the guide on this fourm and have a little patience on the back 2 cyl's
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Old Oct 8, 2011 | 10:04 AM
  #3  
BigIron70's Avatar
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From: Sunny Southern California Land of Fruits and Nuts
Some special tools are needed, but can be done without in most cases. Inch lbs torque recomended for tightening injectors.


REMOVAL
CAUTION: Refer to Cleaning Fuel System Parts.

Six individual, solenoid actuated high-pressure fuel injectors are used (FUEL INJECTOR - DIESEL). The injectors are vertically mounted into a bored hole in the top of the cylinder head. This bored hole is located between the intake/exhaust valves. High-pressure connectors (HIGH-PRESSURE CONNECTOR), mounted into the side of the cylinder head, connect each fuel injector to each high-pressure fuel line.

Disconnect both negative battery cables from both batteries. Cover and isolate ends of cables.
Remove breather assembly.
Remove valve cover. Refer to Engines for procedures.
Remove necessary high pressure fuel line connecting necessary fuel injector rail to high pressure connector. Refer to Fuel Line Removal for procedures.
A connector retainer (nut) (HIGH-PRESSURE CONNECTOR) is used on each connector tube. Remove this nut(s) by unthreading from cylinder head.
Using special high-pressure connector removal tool #9015 (CONNECTOR TUBE REMOVAL), or (TOOL #9015 AND CONNECTOR TUBE) remove necessary high-pressure connector(s) from cylinder head. Tool #9015 threads onto connector tube. Use tool to pry connector tube(s) from cylinder head.
Remove necessary exhaust rocker arm assembly(s).
Disconnect injector solenoid wire nuts at top of injectors (FUEL INJECTORS).
Remove 2 fuel injector hold-down clamp bolts at each injector being removed.
USING TOOL #9010:
Special Tool #9010 (FUEL INJECTOR REMOVER - #9010) is equipped with 2 clamshell clamps, a sliding retainer sleeve to retain the clamshell clamps, a 2–piece mounting stud, and a pivoting handle. Do not attempt to remove the fuel injector with any other device. Damage to injector will occur.
The rocker housing (FUEL INJECTORS) is bolted to the top of cylinder head. The mounting stud from tool #9010 was meant to temporarily replace a rocker housing mounting bolt. Remove the necessary rocker housing mounting bolt. These mounting bolts are located at the center of each of the 3 rocker housing support bridges.
Install and tighten 2–piece mounting stud to rocker housing. If removing the #6 fuel injector, separate the 2–piece mounting stud. Install lower half of mounting stud to center of rocker housing bridge. Install upper half of mounting stud to lower half.
Position tool handle to mounting stud and install handle nut. Leave handle nut loose to allow a pivoting action.
Position lower part of clamshell halves to sides of fuel injector (wider shoulder to bottom). The upper part of clamshell halves should also be positioned into machined shoulder on the handles pivoting head.
Slide the retainer sleeve over pivoting handle head to lock clamshell halves together.
Be sure handle pivot nut is loose.
Depress handle downward to remove fuel injector straight up from cylinder head bore.
Remove and discard injector sealing washer. This should be located on tip of injector (FUEL INJECTOR SEALING WASHER (SHIM) LOCATION) or (MEASURING INJECTOR SEALING WASHER (SHIM)).


INSTALLATION
Inspect fuel injector:
Look for burrs on injector inlet.
Check nozzle holes for hole erosion or plugging.
Inspect end of nozzle for burrs or rough machine marks.
Look for cracks at nozzle end.
Check nozzle color for signs of overheating. Overheating will cause nozzle to turn a dark yellow/tan or blue (depending on overheating temperature).
If any of these conditions occur, replace injector.
Thoroughly clean fuel injector cylinder head bore with special Cummins wire brush tool or equivalent (CLEANING CYLINDER HEAD INJECTOR BORE - TYPICAL BORE). Blow out bore hole with compressed air.
The bottom of fuel injector is sealed to cylinder head bore with a copper sealing washer (shim) of a certain thickness (FUEL INJECTOR SEALING WASHER (SHIM) LOCATION). A new shim with correct thickness must always be re-installed after removing injector. Measure thickness of injector shim (MEASURING INJECTOR SEALING WASHER (SHIM)). Shim Thickness: 1.5 mm (.060”)
Install new shim (washer) to bottom of injector. Apply light coating of clean engine oil to washer. This will keep washer in place during installation.
Install new o-ring to fuel injector. Apply small amount of clean engine oil to o-ring.
Install injector into cylinder head with male connector port facing the intake manifold. Push down on fuel injector mounting flange to engage o-ring and seat injector.
Install fuel injector holdown clamp (mounting flange) bolts. Do a preliminary tightening of these bolts to 5 N·m (44 in. lbs.) torque. This preliminary tightening insures the fuel injector is seated and centered. After tightening, relieve bolt torque, but leave both bolts threaded in place.
If required, assemble o-ring to injector fuel supply connector. Lubricate connector bore and threads. Install fuel supply connector into cylinder head by engaging locator into groove and push to engage o-ring. Install fuel supply connector nut (fitting) into cylinder head. Do a preliminary tightening of this nut to 15 N·m (11 ft. lbs.) torque.
Perform final tightening of fuel injector mounting clamp bolts to 10 N·m (89 in. lbs.) torque.
Perform final tightening of fuel connector nut to 50 N·m (37 ft. lbs.) torque.
Connect injector solenoid wires and nuts to top of injectors (FUEL INJECTORS). Tighten connector nuts to 1.25 N·m (11 in. lbs.). Be very careful not to overtighten these nuts as damage to fuel injector will occur.
Install exhaust rocker arm assembly.
Set exhaust valve lash. Refer to Engine.
Install high pressure fuel line. Tighten to 30 N·m (22 ft. lbs.) torque. Be sure to use a secondary back-up wrench on the connector nut (fitting) while torquing fuel line fitting. Refer to Fuel Line Installation for additional information.
Install valve cover. Refer to Engine.
Install breather assembly.
Connect negative battery cables to both batteries.
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Old Oct 10, 2011 | 07:29 AM
  #4  
leonesm's Avatar
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From: Hogansville, GA
I did mine a couple of weeks ago. I used these two sets of instructions and didn't have any problems other than a bad connector tube.

http://carlsprojects.com/images/hotl..._injectors.pdf

https://www.dynomitediesel.com/conte...ructions_1.pdf

A few tips:

Take the bracket behind the #6 injector off first. It's a PITA and it's easiet to remove from the bottom. That should be the only time you're under the truck.

Make sure the injectors and the connector tubes both "snap" into place. It'll take a little pressure to get the injectors in.

I didn't have the special tools to do it and didn't have a problem. The connector tubes pulled out easily by hand. The injectors took a large screwdriver prying up a little bit at a time on each side.

One set of those instructions tells you to remove the valve cover riser and the other doesn't mention it. It needs to be removed to properly tighten the connector tube nuts. I removed it after I took the injectors out because it gave me something to pry against.

Make sure you have an inch pounds torque wrench and a 24mm wrench before starting. Tighten everything to according to the instructions.


It was a fairly straightforward job and took me about 3.5 hours using air tools. Take your time and make sure everything is done right or you'll be taking it back apart for something simple!
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Old Oct 10, 2011 | 07:46 PM
  #5  
cgoaks77's Avatar
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From: Brownfield, TX
Did it on Saturday. No special tools. Took me about 5 hours (I'm sure no pro), but everything went fine. She starts and runs like a top now. Thanks ya'll
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