Neal Cassady

Anybody replace one of these? Blew mine out Sunday braking hard to avoid a deer.

Fitting comes out of the anti lock module easily, looks like a metric bubble flare 10mmx1(12 mm head on tube nut). Have been soaking the other end with Kroil, doesn't want to turn, feels like its going to round off even with a tubing nut wrench. The line leading from the junction off the frame rail to the rear axle looks like it should be replaced as well. Anyone know the specs on the line in and line out of the L shaped junction on the RF frame rail. I had to replace a section from around the fuel tank to the real axle junction a few years ago. IIRC the fitting on the rear axle junction was 3/16" US thread with standard double flair. I cut the line and spliced in a 6' section from the near the fuel tank to the real axle junction using a tube nut, double flare and union. 6' piece was standard auto parts store green brake line, 3/16 US thread, double flare. Brake line from anti lock module to junction block that feeds the RF as well as the line that runs over to RF caliper looks crusty as well. Probably time to replace everything.

Seems like I have run into more than a few cars and trucks lately that use metric bubble flairs on one end and US double flares on the other.

Thanks,
Neal

Neal Cassady

Update my own thread, after many sprays with Kroil I used some CRC Freeze spray my neighbor had. Not sure if it was the Kroil soaking in or the Freeze Spray or a combination of the two, I was able to remove the tube nut at the junction block. Its a standard double flare, much larger than 3/16, off to the auto parts store to see what size the tubing nut is, it is large, 9/16".

Going to have to cut the end off a metric brake line with bubble flair and add correct tubing nut and create a double flair. Fortunately line came off in one piece so I have a decent template to bend my new line against.

Thanks,
Neal

patdaly

Sounds about like the one on my 97 w/2WABS. I reused the big nut, and the other was a standard nut for the 3/16" tubing, bent to fit and double flared the side with the big nut.

Neal Cassady

Looks like the connection at at the L shaped junction on the frame rail is 5/16, double flair. The existing tube nut is crusty and slightly rounded from removal. I was able to obtain a new one at Advanced, had to root through the tube nut bins. No one there had a clue what I was talking about.

Going to fab the new line tomorrow after work, should be able to get it close enough to fit in the retainers.

Thanks,
Neal

Neal Cassady

New line installed, had to cut to approx. 42", metric 10x1 bubble flair on the anti lock module, 5/16 US inverted flair on the L shaped junction on the frame rail. Cut an auto parts store "green brake line to length", installed a new 5/16 inverted flair nut and double flaired the end, no leaks. My bends were close but not perfect, even though I had the old line as a template, 4 90 degree bends in the line. Should work fine, I will probably install a line closer to the factory shape as time permits. Truck is probably ready to have all lines replaced at this point.

Why do manufactures insist on mixing metric bubble flairs and US inverted flairs on the same vehicle?

Thanks,
Neal

patdaly

To keep people like us cussing at them...........

But seriously, it is probably more the result of globalization and using small parts across different car lines.

gorms

I was able to track down some brass adapters at NAPA, bubble male and standard double flare female. Also for future reference, all I run for lines now is the copper nickel alloy stuff, conifer? line. Corrosion free and bends/flares 2x easier then steel. Really don't even need a bender with it, can almost wrap it around my finger with no kinks. A 25' roll was under $50.

Neal Cassady

My nearest NAPA is approx. 30 miles away. I do use them occasionally, their prices are a bit high but they normally have what you need in stock. Also, their parts guys actually know something about vehicle repair and parts, unlike the typical Advanced Auto Parts Zone counter help who stare at you with a blank expression if its not "in the computer".

Adapter wouldn't have helped much, at least for me, in this application. I still would have had to cut and flair one end to get the length right. My bends were good enough to go back in the factory clips, with some tweaking after install. I did all bends by hand, couldn't find my good tubing bender, my son didn't put it back in the box last time he used it. There are 4 90 degree bends and two beyond 90 in that short run. I agree the copper nickle tubing is they way to go, I still have a ton of the green steel line in the shop, using that up as I go along, I have had good luck with it, way better that then factory installed line.

Truck back on the road, hopefully no more popped lines until September, waiting for it to cool down a bit before I replace everything. Working in 90+ degree temps with a 75 degree dew point isn't good for me, the humidity whips by but. Cold doesn't bother me at all.

Thanks,
Neal