danalex

I installed the original RAPTOR...did not mess with anything in the tank... maybe that had been my problem since I am now on my 3rd RAPTOR in 6yrs...
Tossed the original pump 6yrs ago.
Will drop the tank and see what's inside. Thanks for all .any info help!!

cougar

This is what I need to do to fix my low tank problem. If the low fuel light comes on, I have 5 miles on flat ground to find a fuel station. This mod puts the pickup back in the basket which also acts as a small reservoir.

SIXSLUG

If you have the intank pump you can disconnect the pickup tube and just attach it to the draw straw. You will still need to pull the bed or drop the tank. It has been suggested you replace the sealing ring on the fuel sender unit. I will post a part number when I get home for you...mine was fine so I reused it.

Coug, when my low fuel light comes on I still have around 9 gallons of fuel left...these things are so inconsistent it is frustrating. My other two fuel senders sent the low fuel light on around five gallons.....

danalex

Ok, here goes...
1. Ref above comment. I installed the RAPTOR..6years ago.... Nothing pulled out of the tank at the time of install. At install, all I did to the "top cap" (on top of the tank) was:
a. disconnected the original full line (the one that sucks). Left it inplace.
b. Connected the "BigLine" hose (Blue, 1/2in) to the original "suck" port tube using the connectors that came with the RAPTOR.
That's all. Truck ran fine.

WEEKEND UPDATE SAGA:
Saturday, drove the truck about 50miles+/-. Same story with the fuel sensor gauge...flopping around between 13-15 psi at low speed. Then around 63mph, it really swings wildly...high..then low...then...erratic...
Fuel gauge showed a tick above 1/4 tank of fuel...
As I approached home, I noticed the fuel sensor gauge drop steady to 8, 7, 6...5....4.....ZERO! The truck died and I literally coasted to a stop 10feet inside my driveway!!! (whew!) Same exact symptom of dieing two previous times in the last 4 months....ggrrrrrr

Sunday (today).
Removed the fuel/gauge sensor (Glowshift) at the VP44 and replaced it with the screw-on "fuel psi" measurement nipple thing (what's that called?) Connected the manual fuel psi gauge (liquid filled). Bumped the starter 3-4 times... Max psi at the VP44 inlet = 4 (not good)
Dropped the tank.
1. Examined the top connections. There's a small black rubber "cap" that sits on top of one nipple-tube. About the size of a pool-stick "cue tip". That cap is SPLIT / TORN NEARLY IN HALF....top portion split around nearly the entire circumference.
2. "Roll over" protection valve. (I think)...just a straight tube...no hose connected to it.
2. Cleaned the top (was very dirty/grimey).
3. Unscrewed the cap "ring"...turned pretty easily by hand...seems like it should have been much tighter. It was semi-snug, but was not tight.
4. Lifted the entire "unit" out of the tank (p.s. Part nr at O'Reilly's is SP7062M). (Mine looks exactly like this (except mine is light-beige color, not white)
DARN TANK IS NEARLY BONE DRY EMPTY!!! A little residual fuel in it, but probably less than 1/2 gallon. Inside the tank is generally clean. A few tiny "flecks" seen, but certainly I'd call it "clean" looking. HHmmm..why'd the gauge show a bit more than 1/4 tank???!!! So, I suspect, I starved it for fuel and then it just sucked fumes/air until it died!!
5. Looking inside the "unit" at the bottom are some black pieces (look like an old o-ring or washer. Not a lot, but chunky.
6. REFER TO #1 ABOVE: Underneath that "cap" is a black hose that curls inside the unit, then exits the unit and is attached to the exterior. it sits about 3inches above the bottom.
7. There is a larger tube which I assume is the 'draw' tube. It is connected to where the BigLine hose was on top of the unit. It looks like a black "garden irrigation" tube, but a little bit smaller diameter. It is hard plastic (not coil/spring tube). It curves around and then is inserted into a "plunger" looking tube at the bottom of the unit.
8. On bottom of the unit is a "cup". I depressed two "tabs" which allows the cup to dangle free...except, I didn't know there is another connection inside the cup and it has a fiber/membrane filter...I kinda tore a hole in that membrane when I removed the cup. (bummer)
There is another fiber/membrane filter at the bottom of the cup (about 1inch below the now-torn membrane...
Inside the cup was about a teaspoon of fine, black gritty material. I emptied and felt it, but can't tell if it is dirt, ground rubber, or what..? I cleaned it out with shop air (easy blow, not full blast).
That's where I stopped. I have a spare car so I'm not stranded.
QUESTIONS:
1. Can I reassemble it using the cup with the torn membrane? or do I have to replace it? (OReilly's wants $780 for the entire unit...I just want the cup at the bottom of the unit)
2. The larger tub (draw?) seems plenty big...not a 1/2 inch size, but still seems large enough. True/False? (remember the RAPTOR 150 lift pump)
3. Why did the dash-gauge show 1/4 tank, but the tank is virtually empty????

DIESELWRKS

would this help at all. A friend of mine had major issues with his factory unit that had mutiple failing or soon failed issues. He bought this.

http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Mod...ule-p/fmds.htm

SIXSLUG

I paid about a hundred bucks for the correct fuel tank unit from member Redlinear. I got a nice used one from him a few years back.

The sending units wear out pretty quickly, you should probably see about replacing it with a new one while you have it apart.

You can also get an emergency cap for that outlet port at Napa. IIRC mine was falling apart too...

danalex

UPDATE (fixed...I think)...
First: I cleaned the entire "sending unit" from top to bottom...removed all the gritty stuff (still not sure what it was). Cleaned out the "chunky" pieces of stuff too. Sprayed the whole thing with brake cleaner (great for cleaning diesel fuel and a bunch of other things).
Then I reassembled all the "sending unit" pieces, including reattaching the "cup" on bottom. (yes, one of the fabric filters is torn..oh well, I guess that's why there are two in the cup).
Second: I crawled under the truck with the sending unit and plugged it in. I sat the unit on the ground so that the float was suspended in the air as far "down" as possible (i.e., as if it were empty). With it plugged in to the electrical connection, I went to the cab and turn the key to "on" and looked at the fuel level gauge on the dash: IT SHOWS 1/4 TANK (163MILES) REMAINING !! But it is in the COMPLETELY EMPTY POSITION. Hhhmmm...that's odd.
NEXT: I called RICHARD at Glacier Diesel (great guy, and always answers the phone...quick to reply to emails too.). He said DODGE makes a replacement for the float-level sensor. Two wires run from the plug, and are attached to a "chip" looking device near the float arm. (thanks Rich!)
NEXT: I called Dodge dealer. Got the part number; $101 total incl tax. Found it cheaper on EBAY, but wanted it now, so I got it. To see what it looks like, just google: Mopar OEM 4897669AB Fuel Tank Sending Unit Level Kit.
NEXT: I replaced and installed the "unit level kit" (above).
p.s. the kit includes a new "ring" that goes around the seal of the fuel tank opening.
NEXT: Re-install the unit inside the tank. Tighten down the cap/seal on top. P.S. The small rubber cap that was torn nearly in half (read above post), I "gooped" it back together with fuel resistant glue..also put a clamp ring around it...good as new! Not sure if this was necessary, but I did it.
NEXT: Reinstalled the fuel tank (easy to move around since the thing is bone empty. Also re-connected the fuel hoses to the top cap...BigLine hose for sucking fuel, and the stock hose for the return. Also reconnected the plug.
(I'm omitting a lot of grunting and humpphing it took to get it back into place, but ...got'r done!)
NEXT: Replaced the fuel filter. The previous one was only a month old, but heck, with everything apart, might as well do that too. Drained the fuel bowl, made sure bottom was clean. Also, noticed the "shaft" thing in the fuel filter bowl was quite loose! Not sure if that had contributed to my problem, but I tightened it up good n snug.
NEXT: While working on the fuel filter canister, I decided to put a fuel pressure check valve thing (like a tire pressure valve check thing) onto the bottom of the fuel filter canister...I had an extra one, so why not.
NEXT: I discovered a small air hose was disconnected from somewhere up near the firewall...(sigh)...the hose must be original cause it was all but rotted (sigh again)...found a rubber hose in the tool box that would fit it, so I reconnected that.
NEXT: Knowing I was going to need fuel, I took a 30gallon drum to the fuel station a few days earlier and filled it up. Transferred the contents to the fuel tank...watched the gauge as it rose from ZERO to full, so I know the float sending unit is now working properly!!! yippie!
NEXT: Spent the next hour trying to bleed air from the fuel line... I have a fuel pressure text hose (liquid filed dial) so I connected that to the check valve under the fuel canister. (NOTE: Saving the story of the check valve at injector pump for later...) ...
Bumped the starter 10-15 times...cracked injectors open...bleed air..bump starter...called wife to come help (she's great helper!!)...cracked..bleed...fuel spraying...dripping... long story short, we got her running!!!! yippie again!!

danalex

(continued)
Back to my original problem: WILD READINGS FROM THE FUEL PRESSURE GAUGE...
With the fuel pressure test gauge (manual) installed, we rev'd the motor up to 2,000 RPM several times in the drive way. Each time, the gauge read 15-16psi STEADY! No flopping around!! yippiee!!!
Ok, time to re-connect the recently purchased GLOWSHIFT MAXTOW fuel pressure gauge. ....(deep breath)...
After researching, I learned that some people had problems with the wild readings whenever they installed the GLOWSHIFT sensor to the VP44 port. Apparently the VP44 connection is quite unforgiving (vibrates) on the fuel sensor. So, here's solution I found on youtube and it works !!!
Material needed:
1 18inch grease gun hose (with 1/8 NPT fittings on each end)
1 needle valve (female end, and male end)..Glowshift sent me one, but you can get them at NAPA store too.
1 female/female connector (1/8 NPT)
INSTRUCTIONS:
Remove the "valve check" banjo bolt thing.
Install the banjo bolt connector that came with the GLOWSHIFT gauge kit
Install one end of the grease gun hose to the banjo bolt.
Install the female/female connector to the other end of the grease gun hose.
Install the needle valve. Note, only need to open the valve very slightly to get a good pressure reading (less than 1/8th of a turn)
Install the GLOWSHIFT fuel sensor.
Mount (or secure) the sensor to someplace in the engine bay that is generally secure and not affected by the engine vibrations (I know this sounds stupid, but...)
THE PROBLEM IS GONE!!! SOLVED!! The fuel pressure sensor reads steady 16psi at idle. At highway speeds, it is rock steady at 14-15 psi--even if I mash on the peddle.

BIG THANKS TO EVERYONE WHO OFFERED ADVICE AND COMMMENTARY. HOPE THIS THREAD HELPS SOMEBODY!
---D

DIESELWRKS

glad you got it fixed.
It has been recommended that a person use needle valves or fuel pressure isolator between the vp and the gauge. This does take alot of the pressure spikes and vibes out. plus a isolator stops diesel fuel from ever reaching the gauge. My current successful set up is a needle valve then a isolator and then a gauge line filled with liquid silicone and then the mechanical gauge.
in past the VP's pressure still damaged the isolators diaphram. this has been trouble free for 4-5 years.

cougar

No its not, it just moved over to my truck! Weird, stable at idle, stable at cruise, but goes nuts during acceleration from a stop. I may have gotten air in the line to the sensor when I did the drain valve R&R. Or it may have something to do with the alternator noise filter that I did at the same time. It was working perfectly before. I also have a Gloshift tow max and remotely mounted sensor.

danalex

Sorry!!!

Although it is a pain, I really recommend dropping the tank and doing full visual inspection of everything. Can't say with certainty that that's what fixed mine; however, I did find enough suspicous things (torn rubber cap...gritty stuff in basket...faulty fuel-level sending/sensor) that I'm glad I took care of. Gave everything a good cleaning.
Also, check that little "shaft" in the center of the fuel filter housing--mine was extremely loose.
Not saying any of these things fixed my problem (wild swinging readings), but my gauge is rock steady now.
You may also want to contact JUSTIN at GLOWSHIT (ext 122). He was very helpful and never rushed thru the repeated phone call with me.
POST WHAT YOU DISCOVER. D

cougar

I dropped the tank when I did my draw straw install about 4-5 months ago. Did a good cleaning at that time and haven't put a thousand mile on it yet. First thing I need to do is bleed the line to the sender, if I can find the time right now.

cougar

Finally got round to bleeding the line to my fp sender. Yep, lots of air. Good and stable reading now.