KATOOM

I completely agree totalloser. I've never been unhappy with the stopping power of the rear drums. I think most people are unaware that they need to stay adjusted. Usually the auto adjuster does its job but can get sticky, especially if corrosion is a problem. I will give the brakes a good press when backing up which helps the star turn.

totalloser

I didn't have trouble with the noise until I got the exhaust brake. Then the lack of use, proximity to ocean, and long dusty driveway added up to irritated driver.

One other note: Though I find the rears more than adequate for performance, there is an upgrade. Larger bore GM slave cylinders increase pressure on the shoes, which applies rears harder. I never did it because with the ABS non-functional the truck already tries to trade ends due to the stronger rear brakes. I drove with a bad module for a few years, but even with it fixed, I am hesitant in case it fails again since it's common.

I occasionally bumper pull really big (dozer) so having the rears lock no matter how unlikely is frighteningly unappealing. But for other folks, it's a really simple mod. And as long as the ABS or RWAL system is working, it won't pull the butt first routine.

SIXSLUG

The rear drums are adequate if you put GM wheel cylinders in and keep them adjusted, also make sure you have the springs in correctly, if they overlap wrong they can bind.

I have 4 wheel discs in mine and they are fine. The emergency brake is small and I don't trust it to hold on the boat ramps. They are easy to change out pads and work on without having to pull the axles...

I will convert to 3rd gen front rotors and calipers after the present set wears out. You need 17" or larger wheels to do this by the way...

VADSLRAM

I hope they didn't leave the master and reservior in place. Disks adjust with fluid and have a larger capacity. When the pads get low enough with a standard drum sized master setup you are going to suck air and have no rear brakes.

I can't understand why the springs are breaking. I still have the same ones that my rig came with.

I don't know about rear disks but if you want same real stopping power switch out the slaves with the oversized GM part. I did that 10 yrs ago and love it. I can lock up the rears with a full load..if I have to. everything else is bone stock from drums to pads just a simple bolt up replacement of the slave cylinder.

totalloser

Two things: Most masters have a baffle that sits low so that when properly filled the master shares fluid. If it sucks air, the brakes get spongy but will still work- albeit not as well and may drag.

I'd be more worried about proportioning since disc takes things out of balance. But usually OEM rear rotor diameter is smaller and usually brake caliper bore is smaller, which helps balance things out.

Having said that I haven't taken a close look at the dodge rears, so all of these issues should probably at least be considered.

With home made rear disc setups that use fronts on the rear, it's a REAL problem without a proportioning valve- touch the brakes and the rig will immediately trade ends.

VADSLRAM

Air in the brake lines is bad with a capital clean your shorts. There is no mechanical connection between the pedal and the wheels, just hydraulic. Air compresses exponentially more than oil and won't develop enough pressure to stop a 7000 lb truck doing 55 mph.
You are right that a properly filled master cylinder won't be a problem but the CORRECT master cylinder will be less of a problem. Just as a note. If you retro fitted the brakes and used an improper master cylinder and then you get into a rear end accident the insurance companies have a good case for negligence and the people you hit could very well own everything you have and maybe will make for a long time. It's not worth the couple of bucks you save.

totalloser

I agree, don't fill your brake system fully with air, that would be bad.