T-Cows Hydroboost thread....
11-10-2015, 10:38 PM
#31
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Thread Starter
Thanks for doing this write up! I'll be tackling this conversion on mine this winter. You answered some of my questions. I'm using a HB that is new (not reman cardone garbage) and was listed for a Chevy 3500 w/ JB8 brake system.
Do all Astrovans have HydroBoost or only certain years/models? I need to grab the bracket off of one. I might make my own bracket so that the stock GM pushrod will be the correct length for the brake pedal. That way If I have to replace it on the road I can use stock parts and not have to worry about making the rod work.
Nice work all around man!
Do all Astrovans have HydroBoost or only certain years/models? I need to grab the bracket off of one. I might make my own bracket so that the stock GM pushrod will be the correct length for the brake pedal. That way If I have to replace it on the road I can use stock parts and not have to worry about making the rod work.
Nice work all around man!
No not all Astro Vans have the hydroboost option. If you look at the Tallon Hyd link I posted up, they also carry fire wall brackets.
11-15-2015, 12:28 AM
#32
Registered User
Thread Starter
Forgot to update this thread. Here's my posts from earlier this week.
Originally Posted by Nov 11/15
Was driving home this evening and had to make a hard right hand turn....all the way to lock. The truck....obviously the PS system....made a horrible squeal/honk noise, and I lost most of my power steering! I have made that turn 100's of times with no problem, only thing different is the hydroboost upgrade, and a new PS pump.
I was only a minute from home so made it here and when I parked the wheels would barely turn...like the PS pump is not getting enough fluid pressure. I looked into the reservoir while running and it kind of looked like it might have a little air in the system. Going to let it sit for an hour or so and then go check it again.
The fluid level in the reservoir was fine...been checking it every day since the upgrade. So not sure how it would have sucked air into the system? Or am I looking at bigger problems?
But I'm afraid that the new higher pressure PS pump blew out an internal seal or two in my PS box?
I was only a minute from home so made it here and when I parked the wheels would barely turn...like the PS pump is not getting enough fluid pressure. I looked into the reservoir while running and it kind of looked like it might have a little air in the system. Going to let it sit for an hour or so and then go check it again.
The fluid level in the reservoir was fine...been checking it every day since the upgrade. So not sure how it would have sucked air into the system? Or am I looking at bigger problems?
But I'm afraid that the new higher pressure PS pump blew out an internal seal or two in my PS box?
Originally Posted by Nov 11/15
Well it's either the new PS pump, or the PS box. I'm leaning towards PS Pump.
I went out a few minutes ago and checked the fluid...looked fine. Fired the truck up and the wheels turned OK...not as easy as they did earlier though. Then went for a drive...as the fluid heated up the steering got worse. When I got back and parked the truck it would not turn the wheels at idle. If I rev it up over 1500 Rpm then it will turn OK...but again not as easy as before.
Also now when I pop the cap off the PS pump when the trucks running, there is a slight whine coming from the PS Pump.
Going to go out a swap the old PS pump back on and see what happens.
I went out a few minutes ago and checked the fluid...looked fine. Fired the truck up and the wheels turned OK...not as easy as they did earlier though. Then went for a drive...as the fluid heated up the steering got worse. When I got back and parked the truck it would not turn the wheels at idle. If I rev it up over 1500 Rpm then it will turn OK...but again not as easy as before.
Also now when I pop the cap off the PS pump when the trucks running, there is a slight whine coming from the PS Pump.
Going to go out a swap the old PS pump back on and see what happens.
Originally Posted by Nov 11/15
Well I couldn't find a "T" anywhere, and all the stores closed early today due to being Remembrance (Veterans) day. So guess taking the Old wagon to work for a coupe days why I source parts for Patches.
11-15-2015, 12:30 AM
#33
Registered User
Thread Starter
So I had some time today to swap out the PS pump....well at least that was what I was going to start with since I still had a spare Vacuum pump/PS set-up. It was actually the original set-up from my 93 motor, but I had converted my 89 motor to the IC style set-up and rebuilt the Vacuum pump, so that was what I swapped onto the 93 before it went in the crewcab. The original set-up from the 93 still had a painted date code of Oct 20/1992 on the PS pump!
I swapped it on, "T" the return line and then primed the system. Fire it up and all seems well. Took it for a good drive and no issues. The temperature of the PS lines was significantly less as well.
So a little info about priming the system after a PS pump, PS box or hydroboost change. Over the last couple days I have been doing some reading and research about priming the PS system properly. I'm pretty sure I am the reason the PS pump failed.
Here's What I did,
- fill the reservoir, then remove the power to the FSS and crank the motor for about 10-15 sec, then check the fluid again.
- Then I fired it up for about 10-15 seconds, shut it off and check fluid again.
- Then fired it up again and this time turned lock to lock with wheels off the ground. Took quite a while to finally get hyd pressure through the system.
It was during this air lock situation that I think the pump burned up the seals.
Now after my research I came across a few references to this procedure.
-fill the reservoir with fresh fluid. DO NOT START THE MOTOR! Then with wheels off the ground "slowly" crank the wheels lock to lock (LH and RH). Then check fluid level.
-Continue lock to lock slowly, checking the fluid after each cycle. I did this 10 times (LH to RH and back).
-Then I unhooked the FSS and cranked the motor for about 10-15 sec. Checked the fluid level.
-Did another 5 lock to lock cycles, checking fluid level.
-Crank motor again (FSS unhooked) for another 10-15 sec.
-Then another 5 lock to lock cycles.
-Fired motor up and cranked lock to lock 5 times, checking fluid.
-Dropped wheels back on the ground and everything was smooth as silk.
So far so good, so Will give it a week or so before purchasing a new PS pump for a 2nd Gen with hydroboost.
I swapped it on, "T" the return line and then primed the system. Fire it up and all seems well. Took it for a good drive and no issues. The temperature of the PS lines was significantly less as well.
So a little info about priming the system after a PS pump, PS box or hydroboost change. Over the last couple days I have been doing some reading and research about priming the PS system properly. I'm pretty sure I am the reason the PS pump failed.
Here's What I did,
- fill the reservoir, then remove the power to the FSS and crank the motor for about 10-15 sec, then check the fluid again.
- Then I fired it up for about 10-15 seconds, shut it off and check fluid again.
- Then fired it up again and this time turned lock to lock with wheels off the ground. Took quite a while to finally get hyd pressure through the system.
It was during this air lock situation that I think the pump burned up the seals.
Now after my research I came across a few references to this procedure.
-fill the reservoir with fresh fluid. DO NOT START THE MOTOR! Then with wheels off the ground "slowly" crank the wheels lock to lock (LH and RH). Then check fluid level.
-Continue lock to lock slowly, checking the fluid after each cycle. I did this 10 times (LH to RH and back).
-Then I unhooked the FSS and cranked the motor for about 10-15 sec. Checked the fluid level.
-Did another 5 lock to lock cycles, checking fluid level.
-Crank motor again (FSS unhooked) for another 10-15 sec.
-Then another 5 lock to lock cycles.
-Fired motor up and cranked lock to lock 5 times, checking fluid.
-Dropped wheels back on the ground and everything was smooth as silk.
So far so good, so Will give it a week or so before purchasing a new PS pump for a 2nd Gen with hydroboost.
11-21-2015, 11:06 PM
#34
Registered User
I did some measuring today and it appears that the 1992 Astro HB set up with the stock pedal push rod will lower the brake pedal 1.5" as measured from the bottom of the brake pedal to the bottom of the "resume" CC switch with the steering column in the straight position. 24" for stock vs. 25.5" for Astro HB. I'm going to see how that works for me because I don't really like how high the brake pedal is now. Just a bit more info to your thread.
11-22-2015, 11:25 AM
#35
Registered User
Thread Starter
I did some measuring today and it appears that the 1992 Astro HB set up with the stock pedal push rod will lower the brake pedal 1.5" as measured from the bottom of the brake pedal to the bottom of the "resume" CC switch with the steering column in the straight position. 24" for stock vs. 25.5" for Astro HB. I'm going to see how that works for me because I don't really like how high the brake pedal is now. Just a bit more info to your thread.
10-26-2017, 10:54 PM
#36
Registered User
Thread Starter
Just archived this thread so if the pics no longer work go to this link....
https://web.archive.org/web/20171027...thread-323472/
https://web.archive.org/web/20171027...thread-323472/
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