So Why Can't I Put A Boost-Fooler On My AFC?
07-27-2008, 08:29 AM
#16
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fergavs, the way the VE with afc makes fuel, if it doesn't see air, it doesn't produce a ton of fuel, = no smoke.
The silver colored spring is super stiff. Much tighter than the blue green, green only and maybe a little red with green from the springs I've had in my hands before. A stiffer spring will delay max fueling, the pump will require much more air/boost to push the diaphragm down etc. PM me your mailing address if you'd like to try one out
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11-10-2010, 01:32 AM
#18
Registered User
I've been digging around the archives...since this very same thought has been nagging me for a while now. Came across this thread and thought I'd trow it back up top.
Here are my thoughts. Our trucks were originally designed for 10-15lbs boost, and the AFC was set-up accordingly. Now with the big, better trubos we are creating 30+ lbs. So with a fooler of some sort set at 50% you could still get the same AFC performance as the stock set-up, but with more boost. I then believe you could tweak things with more fuel from the fuel screw?
Here are my thoughts. Our trucks were originally designed for 10-15lbs boost, and the AFC was set-up accordingly. Now with the big, better trubos we are creating 30+ lbs. So with a fooler of some sort set at 50% you could still get the same AFC performance as the stock set-up, but with more boost. I then believe you could tweak things with more fuel from the fuel screw?
11-10-2010, 09:54 PM
#21
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block off the afc boost input, build a bracket that holds a linear solenoid on top with a push rod sitting on top of the fuel pin..
at 15 psi the solenoid would depress the fuel pin to full fuel.
solenoid would be controlled by pressure switch to a relay.
rubber diaphram would "seal" the linear push solenoids rod going into the afc housing.
there would be two modes low fuel up to 15 psi then full fuel
at 15 psi the solenoid would depress the fuel pin to full fuel.
solenoid would be controlled by pressure switch to a relay.
rubber diaphram would "seal" the linear push solenoids rod going into the afc housing.
there would be two modes low fuel up to 15 psi then full fuel
11-10-2010, 10:25 PM
#22
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block off the afc boost input, build a bracket that holds a linear solenoid on top with a push rod sitting on top of the fuel pin..
at 15 psi the solenoid would depress the fuel pin to full fuel.
solenoid would be controlled by pressure switch to a relay.
rubber diaphram would "seal" the linear push solenoids rod going into the afc housing.
there would be two modes low fuel up to 15 psi then full fuel
at 15 psi the solenoid would depress the fuel pin to full fuel.
solenoid would be controlled by pressure switch to a relay.
rubber diaphram would "seal" the linear push solenoids rod going into the afc housing.
there would be two modes low fuel up to 15 psi then full fuel
Sounds overly complicated to me. I think the stock spring does that by itself as well.
11-10-2010, 10:30 PM
#23
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11-10-2010, 10:57 PM
#24
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having a stock turbo on my truck again. i think that you don't need anything over 20psi for daily driving. Even my quick runs from redlights don't get me past 20. Now if i want to FOG out an intersection and squeel some tires i just lay the hammer down and its lights out after 8psi. I can really see where the boost fooler would be nice.
11-11-2010, 05:36 PM
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Where do you get different springs for the AFC? What I want, I think, is the fueling to be somewhat linear, not full fuel at 18 psi.
11-11-2010, 09:00 PM
#26
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A lot of this could be over come too with a stiffer spring, but there doesn't seem to be any aftermarket assistance in this area. I have read of a few guys shimming up the spring, not sure how well this would work?
11-11-2010, 09:20 PM
#28
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I agree...if your running a bigger turbo then your AFC should allow the boost and fuel to come on together, therefore cutting down on the excess smoke and unburnt fuel.
A lot of this could be over come too with a stiffer spring, but there doesn't seem to be any aftermarket assistance in this area. I have read of a few guys shimming up the spring, not sure how well this would work?
A lot of this could be over come too with a stiffer spring, but there doesn't seem to be any aftermarket assistance in this area. I have read of a few guys shimming up the spring, not sure how well this would work?
A stiffer spring would be nice but who stays at a given maximum boost? About the time you get one spring ciphered, somebody gives you a bigger turbo.
It's been my experience that shims don't work with the OEM spring. With enough boost and the star-wheel run up enough to control part-throttle smoke, the spring is completely compressed.
11-12-2010, 10:58 AM
#29
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With my valet on - blocking maximum boost - I get to 26 - 27 psi.
With the valet off and With my custom wound spring that's enough boost to push my M2 pin down far enough to get a mark on the flat part of the ramp.
I've still got nearly 1/4" of travel left in the pin and 47 psi bottoms it out long before getting there.
If I watch the pedal I only haze up to ~ 50 mph then it clears up because I'm moving enough air.
To try to get as many variables out of the equation as possible I normally set my cruise at 80 then slow down to 35 and hit resume. That's pretty close to 'normal' driving and I've adjusted the power screw and the AFC so I get minimal smoke and max performance. If I want more I hit the valet switch and get more fuel - and smoke - lower in the rpm range.
Of course when I want max performance I have to readjust the power screw to max - 2 full turns in. ( I guess I should change my sig to reflect that )
That's the next hurdle - to rig a 'valet' style setup for the power screw.
That'll be an interesting project
With the valet off and With my custom wound spring that's enough boost to push my M2 pin down far enough to get a mark on the flat part of the ramp.
I've still got nearly 1/4" of travel left in the pin and 47 psi bottoms it out long before getting there.
If I watch the pedal I only haze up to ~ 50 mph then it clears up because I'm moving enough air.
To try to get as many variables out of the equation as possible I normally set my cruise at 80 then slow down to 35 and hit resume. That's pretty close to 'normal' driving and I've adjusted the power screw and the AFC so I get minimal smoke and max performance. If I want more I hit the valet switch and get more fuel - and smoke - lower in the rpm range.
Of course when I want max performance I have to readjust the power screw to max - 2 full turns in. ( I guess I should change my sig to reflect that )
That's the next hurdle - to rig a 'valet' style setup for the power screw.
That'll be an interesting project
Last edited by unixcowboy; 11-12-2010 at 11:42 AM. Reason: Realized fingers were slower than brain
11-12-2010, 07:22 PM
#30
My goal is to clean up the no/low boost smoke. This is further aggravated with less than instantaneous boost when tapping the throttle.
A stiffer spring would be nice but who stays at a given maximum boost? About the time you get one spring ciphered, somebody gives you a bigger turbo.
It's been my experience that shims don't work with the OEM spring. With enough boost and the star-wheel run up enough to control part-throttle smoke, the spring is completely compressed.
A stiffer spring would be nice but who stays at a given maximum boost? About the time you get one spring ciphered, somebody gives you a bigger turbo.
It's been my experience that shims don't work with the OEM spring. With enough boost and the star-wheel run up enough to control part-throttle smoke, the spring is completely compressed.