JD730

Alright, who has them and who's got pics of the install or installed.

I'm in the process of putting one in my 93 out of a 2000 Dodge. In order to use the unit as is I would have to redo the air pipe because the brackets put it too far forward.

It looks like I'm going to use the adapter I made as the bracket, slightly modified. I'm also going to have to shorten the push rod, cut and weld kind of deal.

And yes, for those of you wondering I will take pictures.

BC847

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materdiesel

I'm very interested in this mod

brainfade

I have all the parts for this (I think) but due to umm, domestic priority re-shufflment, I've had to back burner it for a while. Be aware the P/S pump for the hydroboost has a higher relief pressure than the stock job. The pump reservior also has an additional return port, though you could T into the single return.

materdiesel

Do you think you could make something like this work?

JD730

I have heard this before, I'm not against changing it if the current one doesn't cut it. Stock box with 268,000 miles on the truck, don't know if its ever been replaced. The return port really isn't much of an issue, like you said T in the other line, pressure would be.

I can't see a reason it can't be made to work. I'm going to make what I have work.

brainfade

JD730,
The lower relief pressure on the OE pump won't hurt anything in normal operation, the booster just won't produce as much boost at the top end. As long as you have enough pressure output from the M/C to drive the front wheels to lock you're ok. Where you might want the extra pressure would be if you had some mondo big tires or were loaded really heavy.

Materdiesel,
From what I understand, all hydroboosts are basically the same with the exception of some changes to the spool and pilot valves which control sensitivity and apply rates. Also the size of the accumulator (this holds pressure to give assist if the engine quits) varies depending on who the unit was sold to. The things that very per OE application are the mounting plate that clocks the unit on the fire wall, the stud spacing on the M/C end, the input rod length and pin diameter and sometimes the hose fittings. Since it's a custom install that needs fabrication anyway, dealing with this stuff is not too hard. I would suggest that when you sorce one, either new or used that you get the M/C that corrospondes to the application that the booster comes from. That way the stud spacing and pin depth will match. Be aware that the second gen Dodge booster requires a spacer plate on the booster output end to correctly clock the M/C. I don't know if this is true for the Ford and GM applications as well.

andyr354

I have one off an 80 chevy C10 that had a 5.7L olds Diesel under the hood. Never really thought of seeing if it could be made to fit.

Andy

wannadiesel

Maybe SteamDave will chime in, he put a complete hydroboost setup off a '97 on his '93.

BearKiller

We used to have one of those diesel Chevys; those brakes would stand the truck on it's nose.

dumptruck200

Looks a lot cleaner than the stock power brakes I've got now. Can you use those hydraboosts on drum brakes or will that extra boost burn them up?

JD730

I don't see why not, my 2000 has hydro boost brakes and it has rear drum brakes.
I finished the mounting plate last night and installed it to make sure things would clear the hood when closed. I also cut the rod to shorten it so I can connect it to the brake pedal. Pictures to follow when I get time to upload them. Then onto plumbing.

MikeThomas

There was a good post on 1st gen about this. Apparently there are several type of them for disk and drum, disk and disk, etc. I would just find some out of a vehicle with the same brake configuration as you have.

dumptruck200

Thats what I'll do.
I've got front and rear drums; every now and again I'll smell burning shoes when I jump on them too hard.
That 'Binder don't like to stop real quick.

JD730

I finished and did some hauling with it to, had to, I managed to break the pinion yoke on my other truck.

DO NOT slam the brakes on, it will put you into the window. Just setting your foot on there is all you need. My tired old power steering pump does just fine.

Would I do it again? You bet. Would I do it differently? Yup.

When I do it again I'm going to use one out of an older chevy. Mine was out of a 2000(might be 01 after looking at my truck) dodge and required a bit of fabrication to get it in there.
A new bracket had to be made, I used 3/8" plate. The push rod had to be shortened close to 3".
The master cylinder uses a bubble flare, don't ask how I did it.
The lines that came with worked fine, I removed the pressure line from my power steering box and pump, put hydroboost lines in its place and connected them to the proper place on the booster. For the return I cut and put a T in the return line and clamped everything.

Pics are in the camera, I have to get some time at home and get them posted.


Mike, thats the best way to do it, although I found out the master cylinder I'm using is from a rear disc setup and its working fine for me. Now I'm ready for a disc brake Dana 80 for the back.