Nicholas

Greetings,<br><br>Are their any alternative methods for finding true T.D.C. besides using the &quot;TDC Timing Pin&quot;?<br><br>I have been doing some studying on this topic, and I know enough now that the &quot;TDC Timing Pin&quot; has been often found not to be not very accurate. However, I could not find any information on how to find &quot;true TDC&quot; using an alternative method.<br><br>Any information would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.<br><br>Respectfully, <br><br>Nicholas R. Gajewski

Monty

A short version:

Let the engine cool 4 hours and remove the valve covers.
Use the alternator bolt to turn the engine backwards.
When a rocker arm is not on the lift lobe of the cam, adjust the intake valves for 0.010&quot; clearance and the exhaust valves for 0.020&quot;.
Loosen the lock nut
Adjust for the correct clearance - a slight drag will be felt on the feeler gauge
Torque the locknut to 18 ft-lb.
Recheck the clearance - the drag on the gauge should be the same.
Continue turning the engine and adjusting valves until all have been completed (put a small plastic sandwich bag on each valve when it has been done).
When adjustment has been completed, remove the plastic bags from the valves and replace the valve covers
Another short version:

Put the engine on #1 compression stroke, use the timing pin to locate this the first time then mark your harmonic balancer. Set the first 3 valves, skip 2 valves, set 2 valves, skip 2 valves, set the next valve. Rotate engine 360 degrees, until your mark lines up again, now you will be on exhaust stroke of #1 cyl., compression stroke of #6 cyl. Skip the first 3 valves, set the next 2 valves, skip the next 2 valves, set the next 2, skip the next valve, set the last 2.

Another short version:

Crank engine around with ratchet wrench and 15mm socket on one of the bolts that holds the pulley on the vibration damper, until # 5 (the next in the firing order) intake valve goes down and just starts to come back up,STOP! Adjust # 1 intake and exhaust valves at this time. Make sure the feeler gage just sides under the rocker arm smooooothly after you have retightened the lock nut. If its too tight or too loose, try to loosen the lock nut and the adjuster together until the lock nut is loose and then adjust the screw either tighter or looser and retighten them together again. It will take a little time to catch on to it, but you will. The intake valve is in the front and the exhaust is in the back on each cylinder. Now, turn the engine over until # 3 ( the next in the firing order) intake valve goes down and just starts to come back up,STOP. Adjust # 5 the same way you did # 1. Now turn engine over until # 6 (next in order) intake valve starts back up,STOP adjust # 3. Just follow the firing order back to # 1.

Another short version:

Here's a tip for doing valve lash adjustment that will make it go faster...

1. Turn over the motor with a 7/8&quot; socket on the alternator pulley. One other thing, to locate TDC @ #1, watch #6 until it's at crossover (one rocker going up, the other going down at the same time). This is called the &quot;companion cylinder&quot; method. Adjust the proper valves, then rotate the engine over until #6 is at TDC, which means #1 will be at crossover. Gap the intake valves at 0.010&quot; and the exhaust at 0.020.&quot;

When at TDC for #1, check: Intake 1, 2, and 4 Exhaust 1, 3, and 5

When at TDC for #6, check: Intake 3, 5, and 6 Exhaust 2, 4, and 6

dalton4

You should be able to get it by removing injector and placing a small diameter rod on piston top. Slowly turn engine while measuring/noting rod travel (best done with dial indicator). Use top travel point on compression stroke.

Using the valve position method as stated by OkieBroncRider is fine for adjusting valves, but I don't feel that it is best for determinding TDC. If timing an injector pump you should use a more exact TDC method than positioning the valves.

Maybe DonM or others with experience in this area will jump in and correct me if I'm wrong.

Jerry

Rammin On

The most accurate way is to use a dial indicator on the valve train ... second is to get close to TDC and turn the #1 intake valve adjustment down 5 turns ... rotate the engine in dir of rotation until the piston makes contact with the valve .... mark the damper and case ... turn the engone opposite dir of rotation until the piston again makes contact with the valve ... make another mark ... measure the distance between the two and and make another mark in the center of the first two marks .... there is TDC. Check your pin ... bet it falls right in ... DON'T FORGET TO RE-ADJUST THE INTAKE VALVE<br><br>I've only found ONE pin that was not at TDC and this was on a 1992 engine. I've done dozens and dozens .. and have found the timing pin right on the mark ...

Bad B5.9

This is out of the Dodge book.<br>Go to TDC with the timing pin.<br>Adjust #1 exhaust valve to zero valve lash.<br>Remove injectors so engine will turn easy.<br>Install a pointer to mark the damper by.<br>Rotate crank 1/4 turn in the opposite direction of engine rotation.<br>Tighten the # 1 exhaust valve adjuster screw two full turns.<br>Rotate engine in direction of rotation until the piston touches the valve. Mark damper<br>Rotate in opposite direction until the piston touches the valve. Mark damper.<br>Half way between the marks is TDC. Mark this point on the damper.<br>Loosen #1 exhaust valve all the way.<br>Go back to TDC (by your new mark and the tempoary pointer).<br>Adjust the exhaust valve to .020&quot;.<br>Check timing pin for alignment.<br>remove pointer and reinstall injectors.<br>It is easier than it sounds, especially if your changing injectors at the same time.