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Am I missing something, or is this a good "plan"

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Old 04-25-2006, 09:52 AM
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Am I missing something, or is this a good "plan"

OK...bought my truck this past Saturday, and getting the mods lined up...

probably spent 15-18 hours reading on here since then, and want to see what I've learned...

I'll use the truck to haul my Jeep to the trails...6,000lbs or so...and then drive it around town on the days I don't drive the Jeep...

Items I've ordered, or already have:
1. Smokey pin
2. 3200 spring
3. BHAF and cover
4. pyro/tach/boost gauges
5. two 5" stacks

Planned mods:
1. install pin and spring
2. install gauges (will do this first and get some baseline numbers)
3. straight pipe it with 3" to the front of the bed, then come up and split it with 4", running to the 5" stacks
4. tweak the smoke screw, full load diaphragm (including grinding the nylon washer), AFC star, and full power adjustment
5. advance timing 1/8"

I'm not going to grind the foot, as I understand that won't be good for towing...

I guess I'll need to adjust idle after doing all this?

I've done some reading on swapping to a piston pump, but not sure if I need to...your thoughts?

Are POD's a necessity, or will the combo above get me good gains by themselves...

I believe that swapping from a 18.5 to a 16 housing would be a waste of time and money...

sound like a good start? good for towing?


also going to drain the 5-speed, and fill with 4.5-5 qts of synthetic...not sure when the last time it was done...

truck has ~265K, and is bone stock other than some air ride seats and Bilstein shocks...bought it from the original owner...any concerns with doing any of these to a motor that's "just getting broken in"?

one thing I can't answer at the moment, is what gear is in it...I'm guessing it's either a 3.54 or a 4.10, right? I'm out of town, and will have to check when i get home...

Thanks.
Greg
Old 04-25-2006, 11:58 AM
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Sounds like you've got a very good plan lined up! Your idle will not change as long as you don't mess with the full fuel screw. May I suggest you make sure you have full throttle travel by having someone cycle the pedal to the floor while you watch the linkage under the hood. Make sure the throttle shaft linkage hits the high idle stop screw. If it doesn't, you can make adjustments with the throttle rod turnbuckle. This way, you'll get the most out of that 3200 spring when you get it installed. I vote no on the pods because of the two variables you have combined---1:you have no intercooler and 2:you plan to work the truck. You can get plenty of fuel for towing out of your stock sticks. I just yanked my 5ver (10-11k) up a 5% grade last week @62mph using about 1/4 throttle. Moving on...get your hands on a 12cm housing. It cannot be beat for towing and will take a fair amount of fuel as well for playtime. I'm running one and wouldn't be without it for the kind of driving I do. Go ahead and start modding. Mine had 376k when I got it and I haven't looked back, except to see the smoke!--406k now and going as strong as ever. Take note of your adjustment so you can put them back if you don't like the results. Have fun!!
greg
Old 04-25-2006, 12:03 PM
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good info...especially the tip on the linkage...

where do you find the 12cm housings? is that a better option than the 14? what's the actual reasoning behind changing to a smaller housing for towing? (I'm still getting a handle on what some of these things do)...

are you suggesting not to adjust the full fuel screw?
Old 04-25-2006, 12:41 PM
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The smaller the ex housing the faster the turbo spools uo, which means your power comes on faster. If you go to small it can hurt you on top end. And heck no he wasnt suggesting not to adjust full power screw
Old 04-25-2006, 01:04 PM
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I found a couple places to buy them...but is there a write-up on how to swap housings? (I do use the same internals, right?)

Thanks.
Greg
Old 04-25-2006, 01:08 PM
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We have almost the same truck except my pump had already been tweaked by the PO. I found a WH1C turbo on Ebay for $150.00. The WH1C has a 12cm wastegated exhaust housing.

Edwin
Old 04-25-2006, 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by BigWaylon
I found a couple places to buy them...but is there a write-up on how to swap housings? (I do use the same internals, right?)

Thanks.
Greg
To get your old housing off you take out four bolts which are through two clamping straps. Soak it liberally with penetrating oil for a day or so. Then get a big hammer and start wailing on it. Once it starts moving switch to the other side to keep it even so you don't ding the vanes on the turbine.

Edwin
Old 04-25-2006, 01:20 PM
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Edwin,

Thanks for the tips...

NEWBIE QUESTION ALERT...I see wastegated and nonwastegated 14cm housings for sale on website...they also have 12cm nonwastegated...which one do I need?

Thanks.
Greg
Old 04-25-2006, 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by BigWaylon
Edwin,

Thanks for the tips...

NEWBIE QUESTION ALERT...I see wastegated and nonwastegated 14cm housings for sale on website...they also have 12cm nonwastegated...which one do I need?

Thanks.
Greg
I'm not sure but I'm thinking I may need to eventually go to the 14cm since my EGT's go to high on WOT. My guess is that if you're planning to add fuel you need the 14. Hopefully more experienced members wil chime in.

Edwin
Old 04-25-2006, 01:32 PM
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Originally Posted by edwinsmith
I'm not sure but I'm thinking I may need to eventually go to the 14cm since my EGT's go to high on WOT. My guess is that if you're planning to add fuel you need the 14. Hopefully more experienced members wil chime in.

Edwin

I was thinking 14, but that leads me to the wastegated ($415) vs. nonwastegted ($175) question...

????

Greg
Old 04-25-2006, 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by BigWaylon
I was thinking 14, but that leads me to the wastegated ($415) vs. nonwastegted ($175) question...

????

Greg
The wastegate allows more unrestricted exhaust on the top end while preventing your boost from getting to high. I would say you definitely need it. I have heard good things about the 16 non-WG if you adding a lot of fuel but then you're almost back to the 18 IMHO.

I had the stock 18 when I got my truck then I got the 12-WG and it made a lot of difference in-town. I may regret it when I start towing my 5er though. I sold the 18 so I can't go back.

I was also advised here to drill a hole through the center divider via the WG port in order to allow the front three cylinders to flow better at the high end. I used a 7/16 drill which was the largest I had.

Edwin
Old 04-25-2006, 02:12 PM
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Greg, as I mentioned in the PM. the wastegated 14 is a $400.00 bandaid for a setup that needs a bigger turbo (sorry Dave ) A 12cm housing, 3200 rpm spring and a compressor upgrade (HTT, etc) would turn your truck into the pulling beast it wants to be---for not too much cash
Old 04-25-2006, 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by G1625S
Greg, as I mentioned in the PM. the wastegated 14 is a $400.00 bandaid for a setup that needs a bigger turbo (sorry Dave ) A 12cm housing, 3200 rpm spring and a compressor upgrade (HTT, etc) would turn your truck into the pulling beast it wants to be---for not too much cash

thanks for the PM info...I sent you another one with a couple follow-up questions...

but, I'll ask this here for future searching references...I see 16, non-wg, 14wg, 14non-wg and 12non-wg on HTT's site...do you just have to call for the 12wg?

Thanks.
Greg
Old 04-25-2006, 02:47 PM
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oh yeah...and how much boost do you think I'll be seeing?

more or less with the smaller housing? or just more, but I'll see it quicker?

Greg
Old 04-25-2006, 04:11 PM
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More and quicker--more quicker! Give Paul a ring/e-mail at HTT. He'll square you away on what they have and don't have---it's not all listed on the website


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