B3.3T Jeep YJ
08-01-2008, 06:58 PM
#556
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Just out of curiosity, does the pump on the 3.3T have the small bolt in the center of the where the injector lines hook up on the pump? I'm assuming that there is very little difference in the pump on my VW as compared to the cummins.
08-01-2008, 09:56 PM
#557
Registered User
Picked up the engine from the FedEx Freight terminal this morning. I was a little disappointed. The engine Cummins Central Power shipped me is the 99/305 FR30231 not the 105/305 FR30230. I called them and asked for an explanation. As it turns out, the engine IS correctly listed on www.dieselenginetrader.com . The description of my ESN is incorrect in Cummins documentation. I asked them how they planned to make things right. The salesman told me $4100 is their cost for this engine and if I did not want it, I had the option to return it to them. I explained that shipping back to Iowa wasn't smart for either of us. In the end, he agreed to send me the dual groove crankshaft pulley for compensation. Even though I did not get the 110/305, I still feel I got an exceptional value for the price I paid.
After studying the torque and power curves, the FR30231 may be better suited for highway use than the FR30230. I've attached a jpeg of the QSB3.3. Comments are welcome.
After studying the torque and power curves, the FR30231 may be better suited for highway use than the FR30230. I've attached a jpeg of the QSB3.3. Comments are welcome.
08-01-2008, 10:08 PM
#558
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08-03-2008, 03:43 PM
#559
Registered User
Thread Starter
Just went and checked. It does have a bolt in the center.
08-03-2008, 03:51 PM
#560
Registered User
Thread Starter
Yikes. I hate incorrect information. However, I think you got a great deal.
Looks like your engine gets ~200 rpm more top end compared to the 110 version. That would make tranny/tire combinations easier to deal with. I kept the B3.3T 2600 rpm stock top end for awhile without problems (in fact I rarely go above ~2300 rpm). The 3.07 axles and AX-15 overdrive were good enough to reach speeds capable of getting a ticket on the interstate.
Looks like your engine gets ~200 rpm more top end compared to the 110 version. That would make tranny/tire combinations easier to deal with. I kept the B3.3T 2600 rpm stock top end for awhile without problems (in fact I rarely go above ~2300 rpm). The 3.07 axles and AX-15 overdrive were good enough to reach speeds capable of getting a ticket on the interstate.
Picked up the engine from the FedEx Freight terminal this morning. I was a little disappointed. The engine Cummins Central Power shipped me is the 99/305 FR30231 not the 105/305 FR30230. I called them and asked for an explanation. As it turns out, the engine IS correctly listed on www.dieselenginetrader.com . The description of my ESN is incorrect in Cummins documentation. I asked them how they planned to make things right. The salesman told me $4100 is their cost for this engine and if I did not want it, I had the option to return it to them. I explained that shipping back to Iowa wasn't smart for either of us. In the end, he agreed to send me the dual groove crankshaft pulley for compensation. Even though I did not get the 110/305, I still feel I got an exceptional value for the price I paid.
After studying the torque and power curves, the FR30231 may be better suited for highway use than the FR30230. I've attached a jpeg of the QSB3.3. Comments are welcome.
After studying the torque and power curves, the FR30231 may be better suited for highway use than the FR30230. I've attached a jpeg of the QSB3.3. Comments are welcome.
08-05-2008, 02:32 AM
#561
Registered User
Manual Fan Switch/MUS On/Off Signal
Clutch/Service Brake/MUS Comp Signal
Alternate Low Idle/Aux Gov Switch
Boost Power Switch
Starter Lockout / Switched Output B Signal
Fan Clutch Signal
High Speed Gov Droop Select
Alternate Torque Switch Signal
Some of these I won't need to install switches for, but should they be NO or NC for my application?
Here's a link to the meagasquirt glossary.
http://www.megamanual.com/v22manual/mapp.htm#gloss
08-05-2008, 04:06 AM
#562
Registered User
Nice document. Looks like you know exactly which sensors you could access to "fool" 
Rail pressure - could be fooled to increase pressure which would push more fuel (I think the QSB has a stock max of 16k psi while the on road common rail have typically ran at ~23k with the next gen version approaching 30k psi). You could probably safely increase this a bit with some simple electronic circuit that reduces the signal level the ECM sees.
Camshaft and crankshaft sensors - perhaps you could do something like the "tone ring" mod that many of us have done with the 5.9 common rail Cummins which advances the injection timing. Should improve thermal efficiency at the expense of NOx.
Looks like there's lots of room to slap and tickle that engine.
Rail pressure - could be fooled to increase pressure which would push more fuel (I think the QSB has a stock max of 16k psi while the on road common rail have typically ran at ~23k with the next gen version approaching 30k psi). You could probably safely increase this a bit with some simple electronic circuit that reduces the signal level the ECM sees.
Camshaft and crankshaft sensors - perhaps you could do something like the "tone ring" mod that many of us have done with the 5.9 common rail Cummins which advances the injection timing. Should improve thermal efficiency at the expense of NOx.
Looks like there's lots of room to slap and tickle that engine.
I'm not familiar with the "tone ring mod". I'm assuming you re-clock the tone ring to fool the computer into thinking the engine timing is retarded forcing it to add advance?
08-05-2008, 04:33 AM
#563
Registered User
95Z have you decided on a recipient yet. It will be a great project to watch. Have you asked about the calibrations for that engine? Are they the same as the other Cummins electric engines? I can’t get a clear answer. I will post those pics I mentioned (I have to buy a new camera).
Let me clarify what I am leery of concerning two mounts. I am unsure of the amount of force the automotive bell can take. Using only the front leaves a lot of weight in-between suspended. In most OEM applications the mounts are close to the COG leaving very little weight on the engine to tranny connection.
From the wiring diagram, I concluded the QSB3.3 uses a drive-by-wire throttle pedal with integral TPS and idle validation switch.
08-05-2008, 04:49 AM
#564
Registered User
Yikes. I hate incorrect information. However, I think you got a great deal.
Looks like your engine gets ~200 rpm more top end compared to the 110 version. That would make tranny/tire combinations easier to deal with. I kept the B3.3T 2600 rpm stock top end for awhile without problems (in fact I rarely go above ~2300 rpm). The 3.07 axles and AX-15 overdrive were good enough to reach speeds capable of getting a ticket on the interstate.
Looks like your engine gets ~200 rpm more top end compared to the 110 version. That would make tranny/tire combinations easier to deal with. I kept the B3.3T 2600 rpm stock top end for awhile without problems (in fact I rarely go above ~2300 rpm). The 3.07 axles and AX-15 overdrive were good enough to reach speeds capable of getting a ticket on the interstate.
If I use the NV3500, 3.07 gears and 235/75/17 tires, my rpm should be:
RPM 1st 2nd 3rd 4th 5th
500 4 6 11 15 20
600 4 8 13 18 25
700 5 9 15 21 29
800 6 10 17 24 33
900 7 12 19 27 37
1000 7 13 21 30 41
1100 8 14 24 33 45
1200 9 15 26 36 49
1300 10 17 28 39 53
1400 10 18 30 42 57
1500 11 19 32 45 61
1600 12 21 34 48 66
1700 13 22 36 51 70
1800 13 23 38 54 74
1900 14 25 41 57 78
2000 15 26 43 60 82
2100 16 27 45 63 86
2200 16 28 47 66 90
2300 17 30 49 69 94
2400 18 31 51 72 98
2500 19 32 53 75 102
2600 19 34 56 78 107
If I use the AX15, 3.07 gears and 235/75/17 tires, my rpm should be:
RPM 1st 2nd 3rd 4th 5th
500 4 6 10 15 19
600 5 8 12 18 23
700 5 9 15 21 27
800 6 10 17 24 30
900 7 12 19 27 34
1000 8 13 21 30 38
1100 9 14 23 33 42
1200 9 15 25 36 45
1300 10 17 27 39 49
1400 11 18 29 42 53
1500 12 19 31 45 57
1600 13 21 33 48 61
1700 13 22 35 51 64
1800 14 23 37 54 68
1900 15 24 39 57 72
2000 16 26 42 60 76
2100 16 27 44 63 80
2200 17 28 46 66 83
2300 18 30 48 69 87
2400 19 31 50 72 91
2500 20 32 52 75 95
2600 20 33 54 78 98
As you can see, cruise RPM at 70 MPH will be 150 RPM lower with the NV3500.
08-05-2008, 07:45 AM
#566
Registered User
Thread Starter
You've got the right idea on the tone ring mod. There's lots of info on this site and others about it if you want to learn more.
If the inputs are a high impedance logic gate type then you might have to do some type of series/shunt approach.
I can't help you with some of those other inputs you list. Don't have a clue. Sorry. However, I would love to hear what you find out.
If the inputs are a high impedance logic gate type then you might have to do some type of series/shunt approach.
I can't help you with some of those other inputs you list. Don't have a clue. Sorry. However, I would love to hear what you find out.
I wonder if a simple potentiometer inline with the sensor could be used to tune fuel pressure. After satisfactory results are achieved, the potentiometer could be removed and measured for resistance. A resistor with the same value could then be installed in place of the potentiometer.
I'm not familiar with the "tone ring mod". I'm assuming you re-clock the tone ring to fool the computer into thinking the engine timing is retarded forcing it to add advance?
I'm not familiar with the "tone ring mod". I'm assuming you re-clock the tone ring to fool the computer into thinking the engine timing is retarded forcing it to add advance?
08-05-2008, 10:14 AM
#567
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I think the NV3500 has been a pretty good match to the engine. I am using a shorter tire than you a 225/60/16 and have a 3.08 rear gear. With the taller tires you have the only thing I would be concerned about is at cruzing speed in overdrive having much passing power. RPM does not seem to affect fuel mileage to bad in this engine. Mine cruises fine at about 80mph. I keep an eye on egt and boost more than anything. The guidelines from the 5.9 seems to hold true on this engine. Stay below 600 Degrees and 5lbs of boost and you should see pretty good mileage.
08-05-2008, 12:34 PM
#569
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I now have 11,000 miles on the engine and have no engine issues. Most of my issues have been with the truck. Bad front spring, front brake system shot(needs calipers, rotors and pads) and had to buy rear tires after one blew from apparent dry rot. Cant expect much from a truck with 140000 miles I guess.
Mileage is very consistent at 37-38 mpg. I did an experiment one tank and drove with full throttle acceleration and 80-85mph for the whole tank to see how how far the mileage drops if you drive it hard. I was suprised to see 34mpg
So not a huge range in mileage for me.
I have not made much progress on the A/C since I have been driving it everyday. Might be a winter project.
Would love to put an itercooler on but have not quite figured out how to make it all fit yet. I can feel a drop in power after sitting in traffic on hot days.
Mileage is very consistent at 37-38 mpg. I did an experiment one tank and drove with full throttle acceleration and 80-85mph for the whole tank to see how how far the mileage drops if you drive it hard. I was suprised to see 34mpg
So not a huge range in mileage for me.
I have not made much progress on the A/C since I have been driving it everyday. Might be a winter project.
Would love to put an itercooler on but have not quite figured out how to make it all fit yet. I can feel a drop in power after sitting in traffic on hot days.
08-05-2008, 03:58 PM
#570
Registered User
Yes, 107 MPH is enough. I used to have a 100 MPH rule. If a vehicle could not achieve at least 100, I fugured it would not have adequate power to pass at 70. I have never owned a diesel, so this thought proccess proabably doesn't apply here.