Turning the Full Fuel Screw
#1
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Turning the Full Fuel Screw
After reading Greg's amusing comment about the "evil useless" smoke screw, I decided to have another stab at the VE. So it only went in another half turn before it seemed to bottom/bind. Is it possible my recall pump came installed turned up close to full already?
It is still showing a thread count of about six threads outside the locknut. What does this sound/look like to you?
It is still showing a thread count of about six threads outside the locknut. What does this sound/look like to you?
#2
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Cape Girardeau MO
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Sounds like my mom's 184 pump. I had it set up to 100cc when I got it rebuilt, and I turned it in a little more (transmission warranty issues), and only got 2more turns.
Daniel
Daniel
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#6
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Nope. Had the screw out when I removed the lock collar and chased them with that same nut. Those threads were clean and good to go when I put it back in.
It still puffs a big dense black cloud down low if I get into it at all before boost builds, even with the smoke screw all the way out flush with the housing now. I suspect that full fuel screw is just already maxed the way it is. Maybe that also explains the dramatic improvement it had after I put in the 366 spring and turned the fuel pin.
Any more ideas?
It still puffs a big dense black cloud down low if I get into it at all before boost builds, even with the smoke screw all the way out flush with the housing now. I suspect that full fuel screw is just already maxed the way it is. Maybe that also explains the dramatic improvement it had after I put in the 366 spring and turned the fuel pin.
Any more ideas?
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#8
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When it starts binding, the most likely thing is the o-ring moving to the end of the bore. Adding a 1/8" will move the o-ring back, thus giving more threads to turn in.
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