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Turning the Full Fuel Screw

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Old 07-04-2007, 09:56 AM
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Ace
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Turning the Full Fuel Screw

After reading Greg's amusing comment about the "evil useless" smoke screw, I decided to have another stab at the VE. So it only went in another half turn before it seemed to bottom/bind. Is it possible my recall pump came installed turned up close to full already?

It is still showing a thread count of about six threads outside the locknut. What does this sound/look like to you?
Old 07-04-2007, 12:29 PM
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Sounds like my mom's 184 pump. I had it set up to 100cc when I got it rebuilt, and I turned it in a little more (transmission warranty issues), and only got 2more turns.

Daniel
Old 07-04-2007, 01:38 PM
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take the screw out, add a weld about a 1/8" more to the end, round it off, then turn it back in.

HTH

Jon
Old 07-04-2007, 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by dieselJon
...add a weld about a 1/8" more to the end...
How does this do anything if it's already bottoming out with plenty of threads left to turn?
Old 07-04-2007, 03:36 PM
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could just be threads binding, really good
Old 07-04-2007, 04:03 PM
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Nope. Had the screw out when I removed the lock collar and chased them with that same nut. Those threads were clean and good to go when I put it back in.

It still puffs a big dense black cloud down low if I get into it at all before boost builds, even with the smoke screw all the way out flush with the housing now. I suspect that full fuel screw is just already maxed the way it is. Maybe that also explains the dramatic improvement it had after I put in the 366 spring and turned the fuel pin.

Any more ideas?
Old 07-04-2007, 08:09 PM
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I wonder if the adjusting of the govenor shaft would make a difference. The pump would need to come off but backing this screw out some would allow more travel of the lever.

Edwin
Old 07-04-2007, 09:11 PM
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When it starts binding, the most likely thing is the o-ring moving to the end of the bore. Adding a 1/8" will move the o-ring back, thus giving more threads to turn in.
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