Turbo Upgrade,serial# Help
Turbo Upgrade,serial# Help
Hi everyone,I just came across a Holset turbo WH1E,assy.#3528174 and I was told it came from a '94-1 ton.I was hoping to put this on this weekend,but I have some questions?
It doesn't line up exactly with my original turbo...the air out and the oil in are about 1/4 turn off.Can a guy unbolt it and rotate the turbine from the compressor? or if I do the oil galleries won't line up? Or buy elbow's and longer line's to extend everthing?
Next will this setup give me any benefit's.example i get 21-22lbs boost now would I get over 25 with this turbo?
It doesn't line up exactly with my original turbo...the air out and the oil in are about 1/4 turn off.Can a guy unbolt it and rotate the turbine from the compressor? or if I do the oil galleries won't line up? Or buy elbow's and longer line's to extend everthing?
Next will this setup give me any benefit's.example i get 21-22lbs boost now would I get over 25 with this turbo?
If it's an H1E, then it didn't come off of a 5.9l. You might have meant WH1C. Yes you can rotate the housings to line everything up. There's no harm in that. I think the compressor side is the same size on the WH1C and your stock H1C. But the other one has a smaller exhaust housing (12cm). The smaller exhaust housing will give you faster spool up and a little more top end boost. Just watch your pyro. The smaller housings can get hot, fast.
Dan
Dan
If it's from a 94, it's a WH1C. It will have a 56mm, 8 blade compressor, compared to your stock 54mm compressor. The turbine side should be a 12cm wastegated, so you could hook up a manual boost controller and limit boost to whatever you want. Like 90firstgen said, you'll get better spool up and more boost. The 12cm housings are good for up to about 250 hp before drive pressures and EGT's become a factor.
Both housings can be clocked 360*. Get the oil drain as close to straight down as possible, then line up the turbine and compressor sides to match all the clamps, outlets, and inlets.
Both housings can be clocked 360*. Get the oil drain as close to straight down as possible, then line up the turbine and compressor sides to match all the clamps, outlets, and inlets.
If it's an H1E, then it didn't come off of a 5.9l. You might have meant WH1C. Yes you can rotate the housings to line everything up. There's no harm in that. I think the compressor side is the same size on the WH1C and your stock H1C. But the other one has a smaller exhaust housing (12cm). The smaller exhaust housing will give you faster spool up and a little more top end boost. Just watch your pyro. The smaller housings can get hot, fast.
Dan
Dan
I got the WH1E right off of tag from turbo? Do you know what the difference's are between H1C to H1E? I have read that a smaller exhaust housing probably won't help me @ highway speeds.(both EGT and fuel economy).
Sounds like somebody changed the turbo then if it did come from a 1 ton pickup. The H1E is basically the predecessor to the HX-40 (from 8.3l cummins) I believe. I could be a little wrong on that, but I do know they are roughly the same size. Around a 58 or 60mm compressor and a big exhaust side. You might have picked up a hybrid turbo then! Which would be way better than stock with your setup! Look on the exhaust housing to see what size the housing is. Should be a number stamped on the back of it.
Dan
EDIT: also, a smaller housing helped my mileage. I ran a little more boost on the highway because of it and it helps burn the fuel. It's a better trade off for me than the added flow of a bigger housing.
Dan
EDIT: also, a smaller housing helped my mileage. I ran a little more boost on the highway because of it and it helps burn the fuel. It's a better trade off for me than the added flow of a bigger housing.
Check the exhaust outlet, if it's 4" then it's an H1E. Like 90firstgen said, the H1E should have a 58 or 60mm compressor, but due to the bigger turbine wheel it will be very laggy on a nearly stock truck. If it's a 3" outlet and the compressor side is an H1E, then you'd have a hybrid turbo that would work well on your truck.
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Check the exhaust outlet, if it's 4" then it's an H1E. Like 90firstgen said, the H1E should have a 58 or 60mm compressor, but due to the bigger turbine wheel it will be very laggy on a nearly stock truck. If it's a 3" outlet and the compressor side is an H1E, then you'd have a hybrid turbo that would work well on your truck.
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3528011
JW2129
This might have to much lag out of the hole?
Well if thats the original housing that came with the turbo (which it is), then its going to lag pretty darn bad! I don't think there is a company that makes after market exhaust housings for those... 4 inch outlet, cummins style manifold bolt pattern, and about 14 or 16cm would be sweet
There should be a number cast in the inside of one of the scrolls on the exhaust housing. You should be able to look on the divider (I think) and see a 16, 18, or 19 cast in there. If it's a 16, then it's desirable as far has WH1E's go.
Even if it is a 16, I think it will be too laggy for your liking until you're pushing more fuel.
Even if it is a 16, I think it will be too laggy for your liking until you're pushing more fuel.
You could always slap it on there and try it out. Just will depend on how big those injectors are. Might spool good up top say 2000-3200rpm. Down low around town, forget about it.
If you're only running low 20's for boost with the stock turbo, the WH1E will be way to laggy for you until you crank the fuel, even with a 16cm housing.
However, you could check and see if the compressor wheel and housing will bolt up to your stock turbo, and then you'd have a hybrid that would spool the same as stock and cool better. I would think the housing and wheel should bolt up, but you'd have to check shaft size and exducer diameter to be sure.
However, you could check and see if the compressor wheel and housing will bolt up to your stock turbo, and then you'd have a hybrid that would spool the same as stock and cool better. I would think the housing and wheel should bolt up, but you'd have to check shaft size and exducer diameter to be sure.
o.k. I'll keep you guys posted.thanks for the info.One last question,what is common boost pressure I need to get to,with my stock turbo,so I can maximize power and minimize head explosion? How much should I be shooting for without bumping timing or changing housing.(yet)
Boost is an effect of fuel and timing. The stock turbo works well to about 25 psi, above that it makes a lot of heat. The head gasket can handle around 45 psi, so that won't be a factor for a while.
On that '92, you should change housings ASAP. That 21 cm is awful.
On that '92, you should change housings ASAP. That 21 cm is awful.



