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Torque converter acting funny...

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Old 11-28-2005, 08:25 AM
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Torque converter acting funny...

OK heres the situation. Crusing down the interstate at 70 I can go up the grades in cruise no problem, TC locked. If i drop the speed to 60 or 65 the TC randomly unlocks going up the slightest of grade and sometimes stays unlocked for a while. There is not much of any load on the engine when this happens. The funny part is, I can be on a secondary road at 55 not on cruise and the TC will NOT unlock unless I push the pedal past the kickdown point. Anyone with a little more Auto tranny and lockup TC experience care to chime in?

Truck (just incase sig doesnt show): 94 CTD Reg cab, auto, 4x4, 3.54 gears, only mods are stacks and silencer ring removal.

Thanks for the help,
Travis

Last edited by tmacie; 11-28-2005 at 08:25 AM. Reason: Gears
Old 11-28-2005, 09:01 AM
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I would do a search on TPS..Throttle Position Sensor. There were some good posts on how to clean, adjust and test your TPS before spending $$$ on a new one.

It sounds to me like you have a dead spot in the TPS where the majority of the driving is done. Take your time and scan those threads for instructions on cleaning the units by drilling a hole in it. Lots of good info here if you take your time on the search.
Old 11-28-2005, 09:28 AM
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Thanks for the info....forgot about the TPS.


Travis
Old 11-28-2005, 09:40 AM
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My 95 3/4 ton 4x4 diesel automatic acts the same way to the "T"
Let me know if you get a good fix on it.
Old 11-28-2005, 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by tmacie
Thanks for the info....forgot about the TPS.


Travis
I had a bad TPS and replaced it fixing the problem. It costed me $130.
Old 11-28-2005, 10:24 AM
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I'm gonna try re-setting it, and the 440 uF cap filter. I'll let everyone know how it goes.


Travis
Old 11-28-2005, 11:45 AM
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It may need to be cleaned as well.. I know there was a post and some pictures of how to drill a hole in the TPS casing in order to get a good shot of electronics cleaner in there. there was a good debate about whether you could get any cleaner in there from spraying it around the input shaft due to the seal on the casing.

Cleaning may help as well.. Might delay the $130 bill..
Old 11-28-2005, 02:02 PM
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I did the cleaning thing twice before the TPS quit completely. It' a good start for a free confirmation of the TPS as the problem BUT I would replace it if you find out it is the problem or you might have the same luck as me and it will fail in the middle of a 1200 mile trip.

Don't say you weren't warned.
Old 11-28-2005, 02:28 PM
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I had this very problem this fall. Turns out it was related to charging problems. Low batteries and a failing alternator caused it to happen. New alternator, charged batteries, and the PCM reflash outlined at dodgeram.info took care of it.

The problem was exactly as you describe it, but it would gradually go away with extended highway driving...batteries charged and low alternator load...but if I did several days of in-town-errand-running the problem would resurface.

Do cheap and easy stuff first. Check your battery condidtion, then your alternator output.
Old 11-28-2005, 03:37 PM
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Matt,
It actually happened opposite what you said, in town driving is fine, but highway driving is affected. Either way, its due for new batteries.


Travis
Old 11-28-2005, 05:41 PM
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the first thing that ever went on me was the tps...i carved the top out, cleaned it, adjusted it and all that and it just didnt do it...i had to be a pricey new one...been 3 years since...no problems....do a search on TPS and try the adjustment procedures available first before coughing up the 200$ in some cases
Old 11-28-2005, 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by tmacie
Matt,
It actually happened opposite what you said, in town driving is fine, but highway driving is affected. Either way, its due for new batteries.


Travis
Yeah- I wasn't very clear. What I meant was: around town running (multiple stop/start) drains the batteries with a bad or weak alternator, then the symptom shows up on the highway. Anyway, you get it.
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