Slight grumbling 0-7mph and from 10-0mph
#1
DTR Detective
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Slight grumbling 0-7mph and from 10-0mph
The wife never mentioned it, but I noticed soon as I took her for a drive. It's a vibration almost like you're on washboard but much more subtle. Feels to be coming from the rear but not positive. I'm thinking Universals but I've never witnessed a failed universal except one that let go immediately and dropped the driveshaft.
50k on vehicle
50k on vehicle
#2
The wife never mentioned it, but I noticed soon as I took her for a drive. It's a vibration almost like you're on washboard but much more subtle. Feels to be coming from the rear but not positive. I'm thinking Universals but I've never witnessed a failed universal except one that let go immediately and dropped the driveshaft.
50k on vehicle
50k on vehicle
#4
DTR Detective
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I do have M/T's, but I noticed it with my almost bald A/T's, it's much more pronounced since changing the tires around 1k ago. She drives it in the winter while I drive our Jeep. 2 weeks ago she started a new job that requires the Jeep so I'm now finding all these quirky things that I don't recall being there.
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#7
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I noticed this the minute I went from Toyo AT's to MT's. Starts about 3-4mph and quits about 10mph, and again when comming to a stop, kind of a grumble. I knew it had to be the MT's, because it never did it before, the Les Schwab employee played dumb.... Truck also pulls to the right slightly, never did that before either.
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#8
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I just went through that. Low speed (under 10) feels like going over washboards.
Be sure to match mark the front and rear shafts, and the pinion flange. The shafts are balanced as an assembly, so you don't want to assemble them out of phase.
With mine, as soon as you unbolt the rear flange, it became apparent that the center U joint flexed only one way, and was seized the other way.
Changing the bugger was a bit of a pain. Heating the yoke seemed to help make pressing the stock plastic injected cups out easier.
Be sure to match mark the front and rear shafts, and the pinion flange. The shafts are balanced as an assembly, so you don't want to assemble them out of phase.
With mine, as soon as you unbolt the rear flange, it became apparent that the center U joint flexed only one way, and was seized the other way.
Changing the bugger was a bit of a pain. Heating the yoke seemed to help make pressing the stock plastic injected cups out easier.
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