need tranny expert here please, had a tq converter failure, truck would shift fine but would kill the engine at a stop, pulled tranny yesterday and replaced tq converter and all solenoids in vb, truck ran and shifted fine for 20 miles, up shift down shift and lock up, came to a stop and took off a little hard, felt like it shifted into 2nd for a second then nothing, came to a stop, would take off 1st gear only, no engine breaking no up shift from 1st, and no reverse, disconnected vb connector and no change, I rebuilt the trans with the normal upgrades and shift kit 35k ago and all was good till the tq converter problem. any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

 

Sounds like it could be an electrical issue. Maybe a connector for the solenoid came loose

 

the harness, p.r. solenoid, transducer, t.q. lock up and 3-4 are all new, will it not up shift from 1st and a no reverse with these disconnected? do you have the logic sheet of events for each gear, trying to figure out what needs to happen for each event

 

Have you checked for codes? Since all the problems (except maybe reverse) you describe are all controlled externally (including TQ that wouldn't unlock) I would look at wiring harness going to trans very carefully and PCM that controls trans.

 

UPDATE! not good, pulled trans down, found rear planitary gear set and thrust washers, wiped out, increased endplay to the extent that the oil slots in the forward clutch hub covered the pump rings. Cause maybe lack of lube from cooler, going with aftermarket 6 gear planitary and looking into a trunion brearing between drive shell and rear planitary, has anyone done this.

 

Did you clean out everything after your TC failure?
Because the fluid goes from the TC through the heat exchanger, the ATF cooler and then through the bearings and gears. Any contamination of the lines or coolers will end up in the bearings and gears.
Also any restriction (from sludge etc) will reduce lockup holding pressure and also increase tranny temperature.

Just my 2c

AlpineRAM

 

Whenever I replace a transmission or torque thats piled up i wont even reuse the cooler. Either it gets plugged and you have nothing but heat problems or the steel that it collected washes out into your nice new components. Mind you thats usually on bulldozers. Either way check that cooler out and clean all your lines before reuse.

 

More info on the no reverse and 2 3 4, after the rear planet and thrust brearings went, it increased the end play to where the drive shell lugs came disenguaged from the clutch lugs and was sliping past eachother. All the trouble shooting guides and pressure test guides i used did not explane this event. I will be back flushing both coolers and removing the check valve in the system.

 

thats strange, Im actually not familiar with the guts of these transmissions Id like to see how your clutch splines got that far out of line. Good luck with the rebuild.

 

not the clutch splines, but the lugs on the outside of the rear clutch, and the lugs on the drive shell that enguage it.

 

ya we're on the same page, I always just end up calling them splines. Bad habit from steering clutches on old cats, they actually had a spline instead of the spaced out lugs.

 

I hear ya, done that been there with wet brakes in the diffs in graders, back hoes and steer brakes in dozers. lots of fun

 

just finished rebuilding the 47RE, all good to go again, install took 1:15min, upgraded overdrive spring, Alto red and kolene? steels, 5 to 1 front band apply lever, billet front servo, 5 clutch front, 6 pinion rear planet, all new thrust washer and bushings, fairbanks shift kit, all new sylenoids, kevlar front band, billet TQ converter, front clutch .025 rear .060, gear end play .015, unit endplay .020, rear band 2 1/2 front band 1 1/2. hint on trans removal, do not remove the cross member, it is spring loaded in there, pain in the rear to reinstall, leave the top rear bolts in and loose, rotate crossmember to the rear, (with a big hammer) remove front cooler line from engine mounted heat exchanger and you will have enough room to drop. 1200.00 in parts, way cheaper than truck payments.