Need help with brrake job PLEASE
Need help with brrake job PLEASE
hey guys I am in the middle of a brake job and I have the calipers off but I cannot get the rotor off. I need to get the fronts turned. Do I need to take the nut off that has the cotter pin through it? I am stuck and I need my truck this week. Thanks in advance
no need to take that nut off,after the calipers are off the rotors will be loose did you take the small bolts off to get the pads off,if so there is a bigger set tha takes off what the calipers bolt to this will nee to be removed also for clearance then they will fall off unless they are rusted on, then all you need is a hammer.
It's my pot and I'll stir it if I want to. If you're not careful, I'll stir your's as well!

Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 3,269
Likes: 211
From: Central Mexico.
Are you sure you need to get the rotors turned? If the brake pedal was not pulsing before you started the job, then maybe it is fine for a second set of pads?
I know this may be contraversial, but I know many mechanics, myself included who have installed new pads without turning the rotors and the brakes worked just fine. One car I owned went thru at least 6 sets of pads in about 250,000 kms and I never turned the rotors and never had brake problems or a pulsing brake pedal. All I even did was grind off the outside ridge.
I know this may be contraversial, but I know many mechanics, myself included who have installed new pads without turning the rotors and the brakes worked just fine. One car I owned went thru at least 6 sets of pads in about 250,000 kms and I never turned the rotors and never had brake problems or a pulsing brake pedal. All I even did was grind off the outside ridge.
I just bought my second set of replacement front pads and I have not turned the rotors yet. I usually just scuff them up with some sandpaper to get rid of any glaze that may have accumulated...
From working with taxi companies for several years I learned that a was said... If there is no pulsation, leave them alone. My truck has 360,000 on it with the roters never being turned. Grooves will just wear in. Just look at the roters for burn spots which indicate uneven wear. No burns, everything round, don't cut them.
Yeah I know, everyone thinks they have to be pretty and ground surface. Not to argue with anyone, but I said how I have done it on mine for many years. The rear drums have never been turned either. Stops great, never a problem.
Yeah I know, everyone thinks they have to be pretty and ground surface. Not to argue with anyone, but I said how I have done it on mine for many years. The rear drums have never been turned either. Stops great, never a problem.
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Sounds like you need to use Infidel's ingenious trick of using the power steering as a built-in hydraulic press. Here’s the jist of it:
“You use the same size socket used to remove the four 12 point bolts that hold the unit bearing on. They are on the back of the rotor. Use either a deep socket or a short one with a short extension. Loosen all four bolts, leave the large axle end nut tight but break it loose. While one person holds the socket still on one of the 12 point bolts have another person turn the steering wheel, engine started, aim the socket so it contacts the turn stop.
Turn the steering wheel hard, increase rpms if needed, the bearing will pop loose from the axle, you will hear it.
Built in hydraulic press!
The reason for keeping the large nut tight is that it prevents the bearing from being popped apart which often happens when using a puller.”
The link to the complete thread is: https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ress+hydraulic
Good luck!
“You use the same size socket used to remove the four 12 point bolts that hold the unit bearing on. They are on the back of the rotor. Use either a deep socket or a short one with a short extension. Loosen all four bolts, leave the large axle end nut tight but break it loose. While one person holds the socket still on one of the 12 point bolts have another person turn the steering wheel, engine started, aim the socket so it contacts the turn stop.
Turn the steering wheel hard, increase rpms if needed, the bearing will pop loose from the axle, you will hear it.
Built in hydraulic press!
The reason for keeping the large nut tight is that it prevents the bearing from being popped apart which often happens when using a puller.”
The link to the complete thread is: https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ress+hydraulic
Good luck!
One tip though if you are intent on cutting the roters. A shop that is set up for the vehicle will have a cutter that does it on the vehicle so that you don't have to pull them. The extra spent will be well worth it.
you may try loosinging the 4 bolts that hold the hub bearing on(inner side of rotor) and then putting wheel back on with 2 or so lug nuts( at least one at top and one at bottom) on tire. If there isn't much rust there it may pop off, or at least break loose. Just be careful not to let jack all the way down so truck could fall too far if it comes off.
wow thanks for all the feed back guys. I needed to turn them they had grooves in them and I just figured I should do it. I finally got them off. I have never had sucha hard time getting rotors off in my life. I guess when i started having such hard time with them I figured something must be different. Anyways its done and no more squeeking, thanks guys.
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