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Installed new VP44 and intank LP but didnt remove old transfer pump

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Old 08-04-2010, 11:19 PM
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Installed new VP44 and intank LP but didnt remove old transfer pump

To make a long story short I did a trade for some work on my truck. The truck came back to me unfinished but with a new in tank Airtex E7187M (tried to stop him before he installed it so that I could go with the DDRP, but it was too late) and I ordered a new VP44. It's been installed.

We've been having trouble getting things to prime, and noticed that the original transfer pump is still in it's spot above the starter and was still connected. This has to be removed correct? Would this hinder priming?

I am a single Mom and I am not in the financial position to go with the regular FASS system, but hope to soon. I am praying that this hasn't caused more problems for me.

One more question, I just looked at the Airtex website, and it says this model of lifter pump is for "models that have been converted to use an intank pump" ... I am calling Airtex tomorrow, but does anyone know what this "conversion" is comprised of?

And yes ... I got the raw end of the deal on the trade.
Old 08-05-2010, 12:07 AM
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The intank solution is a poor solution. If the existing banjo fittings aren't replaced with open fitting fittings such as with the Vulcan relocator kit from Jeno's Garage and If the block mounted original pump was not bypassed, you will have very poor fuel pressure. This is a recipe for ruining the VP.
Old 08-05-2010, 01:04 AM
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I know the intank solution is a poor one, but it is one that I am stuck with at least for the time being (I am hoping to be able to upgrade in the next few months), first on my list is a fuel pressure gauge. Since the lp is already in the tank, would you be able to tell me what's involved in changing to a different configuration? Is there a solution for me that's not as pricy as the DDRP for instance?

You mentioned that you've replaced the lp twice, which do you have?
Old 08-05-2010, 02:16 AM
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Robin i am not familiar with that particular airtex in tank pump but before you drive it at all get your fuel gauge hooked up and the oem pump on the engine bypassed you don't want to take a chance on trashing your new injection pump.


Are you able to do any work on this truck yourself ??
If you are we can guide you along, to by pass the block mounted pump would not be that hard to do.
Old 08-05-2010, 02:33 AM
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Sorry to hear of your trade deal gone wrong but maybe the mechanic thought he was looking out for your best interest but wasn't in full knowledge of this fuel system.

What you might be experiencing too, if what you described is accurate, the OEM lift pump on the block may no longer be functioning. Adding a pusher pump in the tank isn't the worst thing but by not achieving the necessary fuel pressures in order to keep the VP happy and cool would be. The OEM LP may be impeding the new fuel pump from pushing through the OEM lift pump if its not working to par or not working at all. That being something done in the wiring to add the second pump or that the OEM pump just failed. FYI, just because the OEM lift pump makes noise doesn't mean its actually pumping. They fail in all sorts of ways.

Have your mechanic check to see if the OEM lift pump is working first. Then check that the new fuel pump is working too. Connecting the two working pumps in line should work, but as mentioned, could be a problem if you cant get enough fuel pressure and be disastrous to the VP.

Hope that helps.
Old 08-05-2010, 10:33 AM
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No danger in driving it as we haven't been able to get it to start yet. I am doing the work on the truck with a friend of mine.

We had intended on bypassing (and removing) the oem transfer pump this afternoon. I haven't "got down in there" yet, as we just noticed the transfer pump still being there yesterday, but I don't think any part of it (fuel lines or electrical) were disconnected and rerouted after the in tank pump was installed.

If you guys could guide me through the removal and bypassing that would be awesome.

Robin
Old 08-05-2010, 11:57 AM
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Just curious how the intank pump is getting power if the OEM hasn't been disconnected. You said in the beginning you were screwed over....did the intank pump get installed? I have never dealt with one so I don't know how they hook up, but just a question. Good Luck!
Old 08-05-2010, 12:15 PM
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You only need 1 pump. You also need to know what your fuel pressure is. If the lift pump is putting out stock pressure measured at the VP, loosen and bleed the injector lines at the head just like the FSM says.
Old 08-05-2010, 12:29 PM
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Ah ha!!! We are not so sure that the intank pump is getting power and are calling Airtech today with some questions. It's tough because we aren't sure how things were done, we assumed that the intake pump was installed correctly, but I am thinking stepping through all the steps from the beginning might be a good idea. Pretty sure it was at least installed as the old assembly (without the pump) was in the empty Airtex box (where I got the pump p/n) Definately will be removing the old transfer pump.

On fuel guages, is the 30psi guage sufficient?
Old 08-05-2010, 01:53 PM
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yes 30psi is fine you should not see more then 18-20 psi with 24valve. good luck,Nate
Old 08-05-2010, 03:03 PM
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robinlh, I'm sure we all feel your pain and how inconvenient it is being in the dark as to what exactly was done to your truck. With that said, because you are so unsure of everything going on, and with the little information you've provided, I am not really able to help you diagnose anything. Even though you have mentioned money being a big issue (as it is with most everyone these days), what you clearly need to do is take this truck to someone who is familiar with the 2nd gen Dodge Cummins fuel system. Then at that time you can determine whats exactly going on and what you can do to get your truck back on the road. I know thats not what you want to hear but its obvious that you and your friend are completely unsure of what to do or how to do it and it would be a shame to make anything worse and having to spend more money fixing it twice. If you can find a reputable, honest, and local mechanic who can help you diagnose your situation then feel free to bring their information back to the forum and we will be more than happy to let you know what is true and what is false.
Old 08-05-2010, 04:09 PM
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Setback ... I at least know what part of the problem is ... a big part. Oh my !$~!@#~!@#* .... The pump that was installed is a replacement pump for for trucks ALREADY CONVERTED. The guy at Airtex said I need the conversion kit (from the dealer). Can anyone answer one final question for me ... if all he did was pull the old tank "inards" and replace it with the new fuel pump "inards" and made no wiring changes whatsoever, is a DDRP possible for me?
Old 08-05-2010, 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by robinlh
Setback ... I at least know what part of the problem is ... a big part. Oh my !$~!@#~!@#* .... The pump that was installed is a replacement pump for for trucks ALREADY CONVERTED. The guy at Airtex said I need the conversion kit (from the dealer). Can anyone answer one final question for me ... if all he did was pull the old tank "inards" and replace it with the new fuel pump "inards" and made no wiring changes whatsoever, is a DDRP possible for me?
Yep, but I have to question if he put the pump in at all. From what I remember, there is no way to fit a pump on the diesel module. I would drop the tank and see just what is lurking. If he butchered up the module, Ebay usually has a few used ones on there, you might have to watch for a bit to get a decent price, but I used to pay no more than 50 bucks for a complete good 94-2002 unit.
Old 08-05-2010, 07:06 PM
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Rather than chasing your tail, how about this? Look in the FSM & see how the stock pump is wired. 01 FSM is available at pdftown. Drop the tank enough to see what connections are there.

Get fuel pressure. You can temporarily attach a fuel gauge to the stock location at the VP if you still have the stock lines. Harbor Freight sells a set ($30) with all the connections you need for most vehicles including 24V Dodges.

Decide what pump you want and locate it on the frame in front of the tank. Do this even if you plan on more later. Read what Blue Chip has to say about fuel & VP.

Regarding fuel level sending unit, look at Centroid Products. Not as responsive as stock but more durable. Call them. They've done several for our trucks & have the specs. Good luck.
Old 08-06-2010, 01:22 AM
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The truck came back (on a trailer) from "Mike's" With the fuel tank in the bed. A fuel pump box from Airtex with the p/n E7187M on the box, and what appeared to be I am guessing the old module in the box.

When I called Airtex today, they said the E7187M is a replacement pump for trucks already converted to the intank pump. He also said that the "conversion kit" had to be purchased through the dealership AND comes with a new pump.

It looks like all he did was remove the old module, and put the intank pump in the tank. I am hoping it can just be switched back and I may actually be lucky as the conversion kit was never installed and I can go with a different pump. I guess I can put the E7187M on Ebay when all is said and done. I am going to take your advice


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