Fuel Gauge, easy fix??
#1
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Fuel Gauge, easy fix??
OK,
I know I have a fuel sending unit thats not working correctly. How easy is it to "fix" the problem without spending money on a new sending unit?
I've got the time, just dont want to spend money on something that I know will break again.
Can I drop the tank, fix the sending unit and re-install the tank in less than a day?
OR
Should I just replace the old sending unit with a new one?
Thanks,
Tim
I know I have a fuel sending unit thats not working correctly. How easy is it to "fix" the problem without spending money on a new sending unit?
I've got the time, just dont want to spend money on something that I know will break again.
Can I drop the tank, fix the sending unit and re-install the tank in less than a day?
OR
Should I just replace the old sending unit with a new one?
Thanks,
Tim
#2
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: North Carolina or Kentucky. Take your pick
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You should replace the sending unit. Sometimes there is a repair kit just for the resistor. Perhaps you can find one on ebay where the in tank pump has been installed.
#3
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I fixed mine, but broke it first.
I had a fuel gauge that read zero all the time. After pumping the tank dry (I just used the lift pump and jumped it with a 12v hot wire) I was trying to get the fuel lines off the top of the sender unit. Which is made completely of plastic. I broke the nipple off the fuel 'out' line when the tank fell off the blocks. Don't do that. Unless you're about to spend $450 on a new one anyway.
The sender unit was easy to fix. The little float thingie was broken in two. I skewered the pieces back on the 'L' wire and made a keeper from some light stainless wire and it's worked ever since (2yrs +). I also bent the float wire around some to get 'E to F' a little more accurate.
WHATEVER YOU DO, don't break the plastic nipple(s). You will rue the day. I did.
DW
The sender unit was easy to fix. The little float thingie was broken in two. I skewered the pieces back on the 'L' wire and made a keeper from some light stainless wire and it's worked ever since (2yrs +). I also bent the float wire around some to get 'E to F' a little more accurate.
WHATEVER YOU DO, don't break the plastic nipple(s). You will rue the day. I did.
DW
#4
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Join Date: Aug 2007
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I had a fuel gauge that read zero all the time. After pumping the tank dry (I just used the lift pump and jumped it with a 12v hot wire) I was trying to get the fuel lines off the top of the sender unit. Which is made completely of plastic. I broke the nipple off the fuel 'out' line when the tank fell off the blocks. Don't do that. Unless you're about to spend $450 on a new one anyway.
The sender unit was easy to fix. The little float thingie was broken in two. I skewered the pieces back on the 'L' wire and made a keeper from some light stainless wire and it's worked ever since (2yrs +). I also bent the float wire around some to get 'E to F' a little more accurate.
WHATEVER YOU DO, don't break the plastic nipple(s). You will rue the day. I did.
DW
The sender unit was easy to fix. The little float thingie was broken in two. I skewered the pieces back on the 'L' wire and made a keeper from some light stainless wire and it's worked ever since (2yrs +). I also bent the float wire around some to get 'E to F' a little more accurate.
WHATEVER YOU DO, don't break the plastic nipple(s). You will rue the day. I did.
DW
#6
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Location: Bonneau, SC
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No mods are needed. Here is a link:
http://www.vulcanperformance.com/ser...2%84%A2/Detail
http://www.vulcanperformance.com/ser...2%84%A2/Detail
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