charcoal600

I searched for a while and didn't find exactly what I was after so here goes: I'm going to replace the u-joints in the front driveshaft (3 of them). On the Napa site it lists two different u-joints (for the u-joints at either end of the driveshaft) depending upon OD size of the bearings in H yoke, 1 1/16" or 1 3/16" bearings. For the truck in my sig. line, which size do I need or how can I find this info? If anyone has the part number(s) for greasable u-joints for the front driveshaft I'd certainly appreciate it. Thanks in advance

Pooter

Heres a few PNs I copied down from an old thread....

The 2 u-joints in the CV are part #215-0178.
The one by the Diff. is part #215-3105
The ball kit is part #261-0617

Double check them though.


I believe cquestad also has a PN on a complete driveshaft, end to end with new Ujoints from mopar for $200~
Not a bad deal on a complete new dshaft.

Deesil

The H-yoke should take 1 1/16" bearings. the front joint will be bigger.

I replaced mine and by memory the cardan joints mic'd out @ 1.062" and the front joint mic'd @ 1.125" (1 1/16" and 1 1/8")

What the napa guys will probably tell you is to bring them in or mic them yourself because THEY say the joints can change slightly without warning on the same year of truck. Now I don't know a whole helluva lot about how the line work in the mass production business, but I highly doubt they change very often.

In any case, the two joints near the T-case will be the smaller size and the front one a tinge bigger.....at least that's the way mine are....I can't speak for what you have.

mrblond

I read on this or another forum that the whole drive shaft assy is cheaper?

Deesil

I don't know what a driveshaft assembly costs but the u-joints from napa are about $16 each and if you want to change the ball and socket it's about $38.

So I can't imagine the whole assembly being less than $86 (most likely don't even need to replace the ball and socket as it doesn't get much abuse- therefore $48). Not to mention that when it was all said and done you will have serviceable joints....what a novel idea!

charcoal600

Thanks a lot guys, much appreciated, that's what I needed to know. I'll try and replace the u-joints and servicing the ball joint before going ahead and replacing the entire drive shaft.

Deesil

go ahead and pull the double cardan ball and socket and look at it... have to be very careful to not let the needle bearings fall out, but most likely it will have little to no wear and not need replacement, saving you $38

It's kind of a pain in the butt to replace anyway. The ball comes out pretty easily, but the race was a bit of a pain, have to really deform it to get it out.

If you do replace the ball and socket, there will be a cardboard tube holding the new needle bearings in but there is a bunch of grease on it and it's easy to miss and you will try to put it together with the shipping plug in there. Don't ask me how I know that

charcoal600

I went to pull the driveshaft a couple hours ago and didn't have the right size torx driver to remove the four bolts at the differential end of the drive shaft; anyone know what size is needed to remove those four bolts?
I'm hoping the ball socket will be be ok with a clean up and some grease.

Deesil

The torx are T40

They can be a real pain in the butt to get off, in fact I think I ruined 1 T40 and torqued another pretty good. The bolts have locktite on them from the factory. I finally got them little jerks off there and went to the hardware store and got some shoulded grade 8 hex head bolts to replace them.

I think the bolts are 8 mm x 1.25

I hope this helps.

charcoal600

I thaught I'd post up some part numbers (Napa) for front drive shaft u-joints:
at differential end #235 (greasable super strength)
two in the CV at the transfer case # 270 (greasable)