davemhughes

I took my 2001 dually in to get the clutch replaced. I pull skid steers around and finally wore the stock clutch out. My truck has the 6 speed and is 4x4. Well I have bought a SBC con fe about 2 years ago because I figured I would need one sooner or later.

Well they pulled the tranny out and sent the flywheel off to get turned, The guy took .0010 off and they put it back in and then it was extremely hard shift. So they pulled it back out saying the flywheel can not be turned and showed me some print out saying such. They said there is no shim for these and because of the special shape of the flywheel you can not turn them then shim it. So they put a reman one in and still the same problem. I asked what the difference is between a turned one and reman one. Well there is no difference as they both have been turned. So now I have to put a brand new flywheel in it they say. I also has a new master cylinder and slave. Do I need upgraded hydro for this clutch to work right.

Thoughts / Suggestions on what I am being told

I read almost evey clutch post I could find

davemhughes

If possible some solid input would be extremely appreciated.

nickg

I dont know much about the dodge clutch system, as I've never worked on one yet, but if you have hard shifts meaning that the gears are " clashing" it could be possible that the input shaft is hanging up in the pilot bearing causing the clutch not to disengage when you shift, I'm not sure I buy into the you need a new flywheel theory. if pressure plate bolts to it flush how can it make a difference?? what kind of shim are they talking about??
Did they change your tranny fluid when they were in there doing a clutch??
I'd bet SBC would have the answers you need. as for upgraded hydralics,I've read that stock will only last so long before it fails and I thought I read it makes for less leg effort to operate the clutch

davemhughes

Thank you for the input. I plan on calling SBC tomorrow. I have no idea exactly what the problem is.

davemhughes

Posting this for someone else that might have the same problem.

SBC rep said to just drive it hard for several hundred miles. He said the flywheel issue is not an issue and you can run a turned flywheel with the 6sp trans and a con ofe clutch kit.

So I am going to go drive it hard and we will see.

ddestruel

as long as the bolts werent bottoming out in the flywheel. turned flywheels are just that hair enough thinner that the stock pressure plate bolts bottom out before pulling the pressure plate flush to the surface. all you need to do is stick lock washers on the stock bolts that will space the bolt head up jsut enough fromt he flywheel surface to push the pp all the way down without the threads bottoming out. this happens with all turned 6spd flywheels. so i would call the shop that did you install and ask them if they added lock washers to the stock bolts when they installed it or if they just reused the stock bolts and tightened em down. Cant tell you how many times the local dodge dealer did this to people.

just a thought..

01RAMer

Something sounds fishy to me. I just did a clutch job and sent out my flywheel to be turned. It had a couple of scorched spots so they had to do some additional turning. Got it back, installed it with a new master and slave and everything works fine. Yours isn't disengaging all the way. Are you sure you blead all the air out of the clutch system? Air will cause it not to retract all the way. Another thing is to revisit how you remounted the throwout.

dozer12216

Yea, you got something wrong on hyd clutch.

davemhughes

They said the bolts did not Bottom out but they also did not put lock washers on either they just put the old bolts in and torqued them down.

I asked if there could be an air in the line issue and he said no. He told me there was no bleed valve. I guess thats something I can do myself just have to research how. I have am shaky on my confidence in them right now as their story has changed on items and events. I think the mech is a good guy but.......

I asked about the throw out bearing maybe binding and they said no.

I have put 100miles on it so far and if I start in neutral, 1st / 2nd / reverse are very difficult to go into gear most of the time. Sometimes it grinds and sometimes I just have to bear down on it to make it go into gear. Once its in 1st it will usually go into 2nd with a little force. Reverse is the worst to get into gear and I have been killing the truck then starting it in reverse. 4th / 5th / 6th slide into gear smooth.

One thing I kind of noticed even though it is a small thing is the truck has always did a little rpm burp when the clutch was pressed in and then let out while Not in a gear. It seldom does that now.

I am concerned that continuing to do what I am doing is going to hurt the 6sp tranny.

Thank you again as this thing is costing $$ and if i have to have the trans pulled again I would like it fixed and be done, Already have a new flywheel just hoping on not having to spend more $$.

Busboy

Sure sounds like the PILOT bearing is dragging like Nick said, after all the gear crashing I would also change the oil in the gearbox for the correct kind only.

turbo2

Even though I am getting older , real busy and can now afford to have others do my work I still do my own mechanical work myself because of the situation you now find yourself in. I just can't face taking the truck back in over and over to get it right. Its just so frustrating. I recently took my old clutch out on a Friday and put the new one in on Saturday. I carefully put it back together with the help of a good tranny jack that I rented for $38.00. It runs real good so far, knock on wood! These guys are right on with their advice. Check the easy stuff first. The hydraulics , first, then check to see if you got the right fluid back in the tranny. I wonder if the shop crushed the pilot bearing? Good luck!

denny G

I had a similar problem on mine. I modified the throw on the clutch pedal to get more travel at the throw-out bearing. NO problem since.