Disabling Wastegate Solenoid?
Disabling Wastegate Solenoid?
My truck is throwing a code "wastegate solenoid" (can't remember what the actual code was) and I am seeing about 20psi max boost. I was told by a local shop that I should be able to disable the solenoid with a Smarty. However, I can't seem to figure out how to do so. I am running software that is a few years old. Is this possible to do? Do I need to update my software?
Any other opinions as to how to deal with this solenoid problem? The local dealership tells me that they don't sell the solenoid separately and I would have to spend 2grand on a new turbo
Thanks!
Any other opinions as to how to deal with this solenoid problem? The local dealership tells me that they don't sell the solenoid separately and I would have to spend 2grand on a new turbo

Thanks!
no the smarty can not disable it. it works different than you think read the following, it was for using the he351 on a 12 valve. you will need to place a 140 or 150 ohm 1 1/2 watt resistor across the ecm leads, just cut the plug off the solenoid and use it.when 12 volts is applied to the solenoid it opens up a port and bleeds some of the air back into the volute increasing the waste gate opening from 20 psi to 30 psi. remove the three o rings to prevent damaging them and cut the solenoid into about 7/8 inch above the base that mates to the turbo next cut the square part where the wrench go's deeper to make it easer to tighten up. i cut some more of the outer barrel off for looks but you do not have to. next remove any parts left in the center tube, you will be able to see all the way through the tube. tap the tube with a 1/8 in. npt. and install a 1/8 pipe plug. replace the o rings and install see pix. The solenoid is 11 ohms. The largest resistor used to date to fool the ecm is 147 ohms
zack i am going to attach some pix and copies of how to i sent to others, after you read email me with specific questions. i will explain more on the intake later. the mention of the resistors was for installing a aftermarket turbo to a 06.
http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/...rljr48/161.jpg http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/...rljr48/157.jpg
http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/...rljr48/150.jpg
zack i am going to attach some pix and copies of how to i sent to others, after you read email me with specific questions. i will explain more on the intake later. the mention of the resistors was for installing a aftermarket turbo to a 06.
http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/...rljr48/161.jpg http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/...rljr48/157.jpg
http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/...rljr48/150.jpg
The solenoid by itself is here http://hoeslidiesel.com/store/page13.html if you want.
A cheaper fix is get a turbo controller fooler from Industrial Injection or HTT or TST then add a boost elbow to the existing boost hose on the back of the turbo.
That will turn off the CEL and allow you to tune the max boost you see. When the controller fails it goes to full boost to the WG which will open anywhere from 20-26 psi.
A quick temporary fix is crimp the boost reference hose with a pair of vice grips to get your boost back, then, just go easy on the pedal and dumping at high throttle.
A cheaper fix is get a turbo controller fooler from Industrial Injection or HTT or TST then add a boost elbow to the existing boost hose on the back of the turbo.
That will turn off the CEL and allow you to tune the max boost you see. When the controller fails it goes to full boost to the WG which will open anywhere from 20-26 psi.
A quick temporary fix is crimp the boost reference hose with a pair of vice grips to get your boost back, then, just go easy on the pedal and dumping at high throttle.
I just bought a wastegate fooler from BD Biesel for $13.00 for my twin set up. Easy as pie, plug it in and forget about it. The same one from II or ATS is $30.00, don't ask me why it is more for the same thing??
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