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Capping your rail?

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Old 09-04-2007, 09:02 PM
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Capping your rail?

Ive been told to cap my rail, what are the pros and cons of doing this exactly?
Thanks.
Old 09-04-2007, 09:04 PM
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Pros is that you dont lose pressure if you RV is goin bad and what ever rail pressure you have comin from the CP3 makes it to your injectors.

Con, there is no more relief for your injectors so instead of popin your RV pop goes your injector(s).

I have had my rail capped for about 6 months now after blowin my RV.
Old 09-04-2007, 10:36 PM
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I had one in my 03 and it was the only thing i left on it when it got put on the trailer to its new owner in ohio earlier tonight along with some big stixs. Not sure if i would cap one again.
Old 09-05-2007, 06:41 AM
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Originally Posted by CReed
I had one in my 03 and it was the only thing i left on it when it got put on the trailer to its new owner in ohio earlier tonight along with some big stixs. Not sure if i would cap one again.
What problems did you have?
Old 09-05-2007, 08:49 AM
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Looking at your sig, your ARE probably maxing out the relief valve. You can get a modded relief valve, it will take more fuel pressure than the stock valve, but will still relieve at some point.

I had relief valve issues when I first got my truck running stock. I picked up a kit to bypass the RV just in case it stuck open and left me stranded with no rail pressure. I have yet to use/install it and have considered going to a modded relief valve if I have troubles down line. The modded valve would at least offer some protection to damages that could happen to your injectors without it.

CD
Old 09-05-2007, 12:39 PM
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Injector problems 4 different times not sure if it was due to the cap or fuel. Only had the cap in the last two times I blew my injectors. Injectors get expensive after you replace them as much as I have.
Old 09-05-2007, 02:07 PM
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Quit running such high pressures then...or get Flux sticks!
Old 09-05-2007, 02:27 PM
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considering a replacement R/V is over $400 from cummins, the cap looks mighty attractive when yours starts leaking.
Old 09-05-2007, 02:42 PM
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I was looking into gettting one. it doesnt matter what it is. seems like anything to do with rail pressure can hurt the injectors. I dont wanna tear my injectors up but if they fail I will get new fluxes then.
Old 09-05-2007, 02:43 PM
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Flux's arent fro me and 3 of the 4 times it was a crack in the body and not the nozzles. Id say that a relief valve is a good bit of insurance considering a new injector costs me 350 each time they blow.
Old 09-05-2007, 03:03 PM
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I have a sweet set up for my relief valve. I didn't make it.

Since the bolt is hollow, why not thread the inside of the bolt and screw in a brass pipe plug? I carry the plug with me. So if the RV goes out, all I have to do is pull out the bolt and screw in the plug. Very small and very easy side of the road fix.



un-screwing the plug....



plug out.

Sorry the pics are cheap. I took the pics with my phone.
Old 09-05-2007, 03:24 PM
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i dont know if i would use brass.... the material is too soft. at those pressures, the threads could peel right off the plug and you're done. how about a stainless one, or plain black iron?
Old 09-05-2007, 04:30 PM
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I am not sure where the plug would go...its an interference fit.
Old 09-05-2007, 06:32 PM
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You have to thread the Bango bolt. I did this before I went to dual cp3s. The inside of the bango bolt is already the perfect size for an 1/8" pipe tap. You don't have to worry about the brass. I can't go anywhere. The threads are so it won't fall down.
Old 09-06-2007, 01:24 AM
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Originally Posted by chrleb1
You have to thread the Bango bolt. I did this before I went to dual cp3s. The inside of the bango bolt is already the perfect size for an 1/8" pipe tap. You don't have to worry about the brass. I can't go anywhere. The threads are so it won't fall down.
Exactly. It's only a temporary fix til i can get home anyway.
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