morkable

I was planning on a 4 foot "pony wall" Then using 12' 2 x 6 construction from there. Would that work well? I also will probably use asphalt shingles as opposed to tin,, unless there is significant savings in going with Tin? ( I havent checked into this yet) I also havent decided on wether a overhead crane will be needed or not too.

morkable

I definately am no expert at this, so any thoughts/ideas are greatly appreciated

Homestead

Keeping in mind I "only" did 8 foot walls because I have miniature donkeys, I built their 40 x 40 stick framed barn for $27,000 complete.

That is 2x6 construction, 40 ft clear span trusses, 16 inch centers on everything (walls and trusses) It's brutally overbuilt on a 8 inch thick concrete slab and built like a house, insulation and everything, except for OSB on the interior walls instead of drywall.

It was up and sheeted in 2 weekends.

To go 16 foot or higher wouldn't be a big deal, but for the little extra cost, I would step up to 2x8 construction more for the length of lumber than anything, I will when I build my new shop.

Pole buildings can get expensive because of the length of pressure treated 6x6's right now, previously mentioned. My hay supplier just put up a 70x140 and it cost him $50,000 with 2 walls closed in. Granted a good chunk of that is labor. Expensive square footage for sure.

I would go with stick framed and do it yourself, save a ton of cash and build it the way you want with a minimum of 12 foot walls. The pony wall would work just fine but that is a chunk of concrete so the expense goes up there. A cheaper way of getting the height for the lift is to vault a section of the ceiling using built trusses for that purpose. Basically a lower ceiling for most of the building except for the bay with the lift.

Tin can be more economical if you can find the right supplier but it is noisy, whereas going traditional siding and roofing would tie in to your house look and make it look more like is should be there.

A real good place to go and drool over shops and garages is...

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/

Head for the garage gallery and be prepared to spend a whole lot of time looking at different and sometimes expensive ways of building your dream shop.

Hope it helps a little anyways,

Jeff

Another thing to consider, is depending on your area, you may only need a slab foundation. My 40x40 barn has just a slab under it, so it for the most part "floats" on the ground.

morkable

Good points Jeff.. I will definately do most of the work myself.. I never thought of the vaulted ceilings... Does anyone know the cost of concrete in Edmonton? Seems that there is a couple plants very close to the house

Busboy

To build a 4 foot pony wall you will most likely need grade beam and piles for that size building but does depend on the area you are building in. A post and beam needs nothing but a hole drilled in the ground and two guys can set up the posts using road crush to set, notch the posts and sit the 2 2X10s nailed together on the notch.. This is by far the cheapest form of out building and there a still a few companies doing the whole thing for less than you will pay in materials any other way.
I would not suggest using a truss with a vaulted bottom chord, they tell you they WILL sag but they sag more than they say so you will end up with bowed walls over such a long wall, double check this if you decide to go that route. Metal cladding and roofing only needs to be done once and will out last you. There is a wholesaler on the Yellowhead around 127st that brings the metal in from Texas custom cut to length for you if you have a company or know someone with a company so they will deal with you. We found the biggest bang for the buck was a 40X40 with 12 foot walls, we needed 40ft wide for aircraft storage so going 32 wide is ideal for you and cheaper as the price of trusses increases more over 32ft.

morkable

What do you guys think about a steel building from futuresteel?

DWeiler

Only have to build them once,50 year warranty,but they do take time. I just helped build 2 of them last week while on vacation at my folks place northwest of Peace River,one for the old man (24x28x14FT arch height) and one for my sister 20x36x18FT arch height for her horses.They are very well built but flexible from the start and get stronger as more arches are overlapped.You definitly need at least 4 people for assemble,3 sections of scaffolding.Each arch is assembled on the ground and then pulled up into place,the first arch is a mother but it does get easier as more over lap.They bolt into a perimeter floor grid section you assemble first(Hilti hammer drill is a must as each concrete anchor is 5/8x4 inches long---100 for my sister,70 for my dad.Hope you like bolts/nuts cause there is lots---every 6 inches on the overlap plus another 16 for each panel that is put together before you raise it.My dads was a 7 panel kit/14 arch sections and my sister was an 9 panel(a bit taller)-17 arch sections. An electric impact screw gun works wonders but you still need someone on the other side of the panel with a wrench to hold the head from spinning---2 of us took 3 hours to properly torque all on my dads building.Lining up each arch with the previous one is no fun,as you have to match each bolt hole together----20/30 center punches help before bolting together.I like them because of the true interior height,no cross sections/beams and depending on the model you can get true 8 ft walls before they arch to the top,windows/insulation kit are available too.Sorry long winded,Hope this helps---PS--- dads building with 2 windows and a rear wall---no front wall as he will build/install his own door was 12,700 US----concrete pad was 9100CAN(7 inches thick center/12 inches thick perimeter,12 cubic yards total.They will out live you.DW

morkable

What about insulation?

DWeiler

Dad/sister bought the insulation kit as well, R-20(check out Futuresteel website for pics)but we ran out of time to install.Another option is spray foam.There are other manufactures as well from Toro,Powerbilt,Crown steel.Futuresteel was the best price cause they bought 2 buildings together.I am looking at putting one up at at my RV lot in Gull Lake(GABLE STYLE) but i am limited to only 13x30x(12ft height limit) due to my trees/lot size.I want a true 10 foot roll up door to fit my future boat as well as another 10 foot roll up door located at the back so i have a walk though garage to access the back of my lot with my quads etc.I have to make it fit in next to the deck,under the patio cover in the pics.

Nomad

Kev, that's awesome, congratulations to both you guys!! I head back up there after thanksgiving for 5-6weeks so lets grab some lunch and get caught up.
I'm in the process of building a garage at my place as we speak. Its a 30x36. Spent the last 3 weeks prepping the foundation, forms and finally a concrete slab. Now i have to get back to work to pay for the second half.
A couple things that worked for me were to look into local bylaws for height restrictions and max. sq.footage of an accessory building, easements and setbacks with neighbours, streams, creeks etc... before deciding on a size.
Find a good CAD guy for your drawings, because there will be revisions!
I plumbed my shop for a "future" washroom because i didn't want to break up the slab at a later date, i've got 8 skylights going in for natural light, and trusses designed for a potential "storage" area along with 14ft. walls. I poured a 6" slab with a higher MPA value with plans to bolt down a two post lift some day. 10'x10' doors to get a trailer and/or my dually through the door. etc...
Anyhow, lets touch base next week and we'll talk some more.
Cheers!

morkable

I was wondering what happend to you! Havent heard from you forever,, lol Please do call when you get a moment

HDBeauty

Hey Kevin....You are not too far away from me now....I know exactly where Dawn Valley is...

I found an old oilfield compressor building that was surplus equipment. I bought it for cheap and it is all steel, I-Beam construction...it is 42.5 x 50, 6 inch concrete slab..The walls are 26feet tall and 30 feet to the peak. I have a 10x10 door and a 14X18 door. It was a lot cheaper than anything out there and it went together really easily. You just have to line up the cranes to lift all the beams. It is just galvanized tin on the outside but I want to change the color one day. I insulated the inside an put white tin up...I also plumbed it for a bathroom and water in the future. The shop was around $60 000 all together...Not too bad for an all steel shop.

morkable

Heck I am expecting to spend 60 grand anyways,, lol,, unfortunately i am sure that deals like what you have do not happen every day

cLAYH

I talked to Futuresteel a few weeks ago. They currently have 13 30X50 shops sitting near Fort Mac that need a need a home. They were ordered and while on route to site the order got cancelled. Too big for what I wanted nor am I ready at this point but it was a pretty good deal.

han solo

I called Integrity buildings out of Alberta. 40x60, tin on both sides, insulated, couple man doors, couple overheads, couple windows. Cement posts for the posts to sit on was $65,000. But that is still a dirt floor, no heat or power yet.