clebmotors

not every time but sometimes when I start my 05 3500, oil pressure drops to zero and if i put on the throttle makes bad noise. than ill shut it off and restart and all will be fine? hate to sound like an idiot here just need some direction. read plenty about ppl saying hook up a mechanical gauge but maybe someone here has had same issue and can pin point this, Thanks

Purplezr2

You need to hook up a mechanical gauge and see what is going on.

no_6_oh_no

You quite likely have a failed oil pressure relief valve, oil pump, or a problem with the oil pickup tube. Since it seems to be intermittent the PR valve and\or pump would be my guess.

You definitely need to have a manual gauge to verify the pressure is actual low as the dash gauge us totally fake.

clebmotors

Ill do that tomorrow and let u know whats up

clebmotors

ok. i know its been a while but it stopped till last friday. I hooked up a mechanical gauge and nothing. even put an open tube on the same feed line to see if i had any at all and still nothing. p/r valve all checks out and changed the oil and flushed it with new oil. So do I just assume its the pump and order it tomorrow? i dought its the pickup tube...

papaduck

You need to drop the pan to see just what is the problem. Start with the pump and make sure it is working. If the pump checks out OK then make sure oil is getting into the pump. Check the flow through the galleys, could be blocked or oil could be exiting the galley and going directly back into the pan.

clebmotors

Ok how do you check the oil pump?

papaduck

I have not had a Cummins pump out to see how it is driven. On some gassers it can be driven with an electric drill to check if it will flow, but will not show if it will build pressure.

This is from my manual, sorry the pictures will not copy and paste. The pump is located at the front of the engine and the pan will not need to be removed to get to the pump. After looking at my manual, I do not think that the pump is your problem, it is probably the oil is not getting to the pump. I still think that you need to drop the pan to check the suction tube. I have included the pan removal and inspection instructions. Hope this helps.


OIL PUMP
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cables.
(2) Remove fan/drive assembly (Refer to 7 - COOLING/
ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN - REMOVAL).
(3) Remove the accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS -
REMOVAL).
(4) Remove the fan support/hub assembly.
(5) Remove crankshaft damper (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER -
REMOVAL) and speed indicator ring.
(6) Remove hydraulic pump.
(7) Remove accessory drive belt tensioner.
(8) Remove the gear housing cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/GEAR HOUSING COVER
- REMOVAL).
Fig. 114 Oil Pressure Regulator
1 - OIL FILTER
2 - PLUG
3 - GASKET
4 - SPRING
5 - VALVE
Fig. 115 Oil Pressure Regulator Spring Check
DR ENGINE 5.9L DIESEL 9 - 343
(9) Remove the four mounting bolts and pull the
oil pump from the bore in the cylinder block (Fig.
116).

CLEANING
Clean all parts in solvent and dry with compressed
air. Clean the old sealer residue from the back of the
gear housing cover and front of the gear housing.
INSPECTION
Disassemble and inspect the oil pump as follows:
(1) Visually inspect the lube pump gears for chips,
cracks or excessive wear.
(2) Remove the back plate (Fig. 117).
(3) Mark TOP on the gerotor planetary using a felt
tip pen (Fig. 117).
(4) Remove the gerotor planetary (Fig. 117).
Inspect for excessive wear or damage. Inspect the
pump housing and gerotor drive for damaged and
excessive wear.
(5) Install the gerotor planetary in the original
position.
(6) Measure the tip clearance (Fig. 118). Maximum
clearance is 0.1778 mm (0.007 inch). If the oil pump
is out of limits, replace the pump.
(7) Measure the clearance of the gerotor drive/
gerotor planetary to port plate (Fig. 119). Maximum
clearance is 0.127 mm (0.005 inch). If the oil pump is
out of limits, replace the pump.
(8) Measure the clearance of the gerotor planetary
to the body bore (Fig. 120). Maximum clearance is
0.381 mm (0.015 inch). If the oil pump is out of limits,
replace the pump.
(9) Measure the gears backlash (Fig. 121). The
limits of a used pump is 0.15- 0.25 mm (0.006-0.010
inch). If the backlash is out of limits, replace the oil
pump.
(10) Install the back plate.


OIL PAN
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect the battery negative cables.
(2) Install engine support fixture # 8534.
(3) Raise vehicle on hoist.
(4) Disconnect starter cables from starter motor.
(5) Remove starter motor (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/
STARTING/STARTER MOTOR - REMOVAL)
and transmission adapter plate assembly.
(6) Remove transmission and transfer case (if
equipped).
(7) Remove flywheel or flexplate.
(8) Remove the transmission adapter plate.
WARNING: HOT OIL CAN CAUSE PERSONAL
INJURY.
(9) Drain the engine oil (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/LUBRICATION/
OIL - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(10) Install the oil pan drain plug if sealing surface
is not damaged and tighten to 50 N·m (57 ft.
lbs.) torque.
(11) Remove oil pan bolts, break the pan to block
seal, and lower pan slightly and remove oil suction
tube fasteners.
(12) Remove oil pan and suction tube.
CLEANING
Remove all gasket material from the oil pan and
cylinder block sealing surfaces. Extra effort may be
required around T-joint areas. Clean oil pan and
flush suction tube with a suitable solvent.
INSPECTION
Inspect the oil pan, suction tube, and tube braces
for cracks and damage. Replace any defective component.
Inspect the oil drain plug and drain hole
threads. Inspect the oil pan sealing surface for
straightness. Repair any minor imperfections with a
ball-peen hammer. Do not attempt to repair an oil
pan by welding.
INSTALLATION
(1) Fill the T-joint between the pan rail/gear housing
and pan rail/rear seal retainer with sealant. Use
Mopart Silicone Rubber Adhesive Sealant or equivalent.
(2) Place suction tube in oil pan and guide them
into place. Using a new tube to block gasket, install
and tighten the suction tube bolts by hand. Starting
with the oil pump inlet bolts, tighten the bolts to 24
N·m (18 ft. lbs.) torque. Tighten the remaining tube
brace bolts to 43 N·m (32 ft. lbs.) torque.
(3) Starting in the center and working outward,
tighten the oil pan bolts to 28 N·m (21 ft. lbs.)
torque.
(4) Install the flywheel housing assembly with the
starter motor attached and tighten bolts to 77 N·m
(57 ft. lbs.) torque.
(5) Connect starter motor cables.
(6) Install the flywheel or flexplate. Torque to 137
N·m (101 ft. lbs.).
(7) Install transmission and transfer case (if
equipped).
(8) Lower vehicle.
(9) Remove the engine support fixture # 8534.
(10) Install battery negative cables.
(11) Fill the crankcase with new engine oil.
(12) Start engine and check for leaks. Stop engine,
check oil level, and adjust, if necessary

papaduck

I am not sure but I think there is an easier way to drop the pan. Put the truck on jack stands to the frame and let the axel drop down. There are others that may know for sure a better way and will input their knowledge.

clebmotors

Ya dropping the pan sounds like a real pita. I can't check pump for pressure with a drill seeing that its all internal gear driven by the crank. It doesn't say but do I need to drain the oil when checking the pump? (When I pull the timing cover off)

papaduck

No you do not need to drain the oil to get to the pump.

I think the oil is not getting to the pump and the suction tube is more likely your problem. It has a gasket and air is more likely being pulled by the pump. Before you said that you could restart the engine and would have pressure. The leak was probably small and oil was slowly being pulled into the tube and as the oil filled the tube above the leak it would pull the oil more quickly. In other words the oil partially sealed the leak.

I would check the suction tube before you pull the pump.

I studied my manual to see if there was any way to check the suction tube without dropping the pan. I do not see any good way to check it. The suction tube goes to the pump and I do not see a way to connect to the tube before the pump. There may be a way but without haven't taking an engine apart I do not know.

highmileage

If you have something else to drive in the meantime...that has to be hard on the rotating assembly..if you know someone with a borescope,you might try going thru the drainplug and take a peek at the pickup tube(which as above poster stated)will probably find a cracked pickup tube.Might even find a cheapo scope at Harbor Freight.Also,dont know what you use your truck for(fun,offroading or running over an import or 2) it doesnt have any dents in the oil pan?

clebmotors

Ya I've been driving my f-150. Makes since what ur saying and my neighbor has a borescope so ill borrow that from him and check it out tomorrow. Thanks for ur time in looking into all this for me.

clebmotors

Ok well I pulled the pan and everything looked good so put new gaskets on and still nothing. Guess I'm driving down to cummins again and buying a pump.

clebmotors

alright I have pressure! oil cooler gasket did the trick. I replaced both of them.