hump

I have a 2007 Ram 3500 mega-cab 4x4 automatic with a two piece rear drive shaft. I have been experiencing the "vibration" for a few months now and it's driving my insane. I have done a ton of reading through various posts and it seems the carrier bearing is usually the main culprit. My question is, should the carrier bearing have any movement in it? If I get under the truck and push up on the drive shaft near the carrier bearing it does in fact move up about 1/2". Some say it should have a little movement and others say it should not move up and down

Should the carrier bearing move up and down when pushed/pulled?

Also I have read a lot of positive posts regarding members going to a one piece drive shaft....which is the way I'm leaning. Pros or cons regarding this?

Thanks!

rockcrawler304

Although I do not have one YET, I will be going that rout if (when) I start having problems.

As far as movement, I just checked mine about 1,000 miles ago and there is very little movement. If you can push up on it and get 1/2 inch I would say that is too much.

Can you also pull it down? If it pulls down 1/2 inch you are actually looking at a full 1" of movement (wobble)

hump

Yes...I can pull it down but it doesn't seem to pull down quite a 1/2".

rockcrawler304

Sounds like that is your issue.

If cash is an issue I would put a new carrier bearing now and look into a 1 piece DS later.

bkrukow

Is there any set amount of play that is acceptable? I have had a vibration in my truck for several years and can not pin it down. I am to the point I realy dont even like driving it. I just put 400 miles on it today and between the vibration its had for the last 60-70thousand miles and now my torque converter starting to shudder when it locks up I realy am not overly happy with the truck. I was under the truck a couple weeks ago and the carrier bearing did have a good solid 1/2" of play in it.

47Dodge

Carrier bearings can cause vibrations and also noise when they are failing. On the old trucks you had to get the drive shafts back in phase or you would have a vibration after fixing. Could also have some dry or wore u joints as well.


47

junebug95628

I've been going down the vibration road for a while now. I did the carrier and ujoints as this was easiest. You don't mention your mileage but if it's substantial you cant hurt by changing them. BTW, this didn't do anything for my truck and I had that amount of play in the carrier at 70k miles. Also, when does the vibration occur? throttle / off throttle, specific engine speed in any gear or specific road speed at any rpm? details will help...

hump

Current mileage is 59,000. The vibration comes on about 50mph and will continue to vibrate up to about 65mph and then seems to fade away. It occurs if I'm on or off the throttle and even when coasting down hill (between 50mph & 65mph) with the transmission in neutral...it still vibrates. To my knowledge, all drive line components are stock. I've noticed that I have had the shudder feeling for some time when taking off from a dead stop especially when towing my 15,000lb camper. When towing, the vibration is much worse feeling....it's actually somewhat scary to drive. I can feel this "vibration" through the floorboard, the seats (on the back side of my legs), and some faint vibration in the steering wheel.

trik396

Sounds like driveshaft u-joints... at 70,000 miles I was on my second aftermarket set!!! These trucks eat u-joints... Thats from my experience AND the guy and my driveshaft shop...

bkrukow

Sounds exaclt like my truck only my vibration will fade if I let off the throttle. Its strongest around that 55-65 range where I drive 99% of the time. Ive got 130,000 on mine, I have replaced the rear Ujoint once and as far as I know the hanger and other joints are the original.

jhenson

The factory carrier bearing design is awful. Yes, it has lot's of up/down play in it....it's inherent in it's design. I changed mine out at over 200k miles because the rubber "tabs" had finally self-destructed and replaced it with an "over the road" design bearing.....the round housing ones.....look on any school bus or big truck and you'll see what I'm talking about.

As for what you are describing....I'd say it's most likely a failed u-joint like others have stated. My first set on the rear driveshaft were completely siezed at 30k miles. Now at 302k miles I'm on my 6th set.

Something about these 2-piece jobbers....they love 'em some u-joints. Next time for me I'm going the 1 piece route.

junebug95628

I have to say Im wondering if carrier or ujoints is all your problem. You state it's at a specific speed regardless of go pedal pressure or gear. Usually a joint issue will smooth out at varying loads even at same speed. Does your steering wheel shimmy? Could it be a wheel bearing?

junebug95628

The shudder at take off when loaded is inherent to the truck. You can add a shim to the carrier but that could move the shudder to take off when empty.

I changed all ujoints and carrier around 75k chasing a vibration. Mistakenly....

If ujoints or carrier are bad they will "clunk" when changing from load to coast or vise versa.

iweb

My 05 had a vibration at 70 mph since new and I was going to make a 4K mile trip so I changed out u-joints and carrier bearing. All the u-joints and carrier bearing were in good shape and the rubber part that holds the carrier bearing was bad. But since it had the vibration since new that was not the problem. Problem was that the drive shaft was out of time, one tooth off, had to grind off the nub that allows the shafts to go in one way but now it is totally vibration free.

hump

How could I check to see if it's a bad wheel bearing?