dan123dbl

Can I get some info on what exactly I'm removing here? I hooked up my steering wheel puller and It didn't accomplish anything but bend the bolts to . I've got the nut and washer loose, but nothing gave way besides that. It says to remove the fuel injection pump drive gear but I'm not sure which part that is.




Any info would be great, I need to get the pump off and rebuild or get a new one!

d22019

That is the pump gear you are breaking loose. You need some grade 8 bolts or they will bend or get the threads yanked off them.

dan123dbl

Will a steering wheel puller work fine or do I need to get the T Bar puller like it says in the manual / disassemble video. It also mushroomed the end of the middle bolt, so could I just replace all 3 with grade 8 bolts and wrench on it until it comes off?

93-12Smoke

I always use a steering wheel puller. Did you loosen the three nuts that hold the pump to the timing case and remove the rear support bracket?

dan123dbl

Nope! Instructions told me to pull it first, then remove the 3 nuts and support bracket. Is it supposed to be done the other way around?

93-12Smoke

Loosen the the bolts off, don't remove them completely and remove the bracket on the back. The pump pushes off the gear. You're not pulling the gear off the pump.

dan123dbl

That makes a lot more sense.. Thanks for clearing that up, i'll give it a try when I pick up an S wrench to remove that hidden nut.

jtamulonis

you`ve got that wrong!!! there`s NOTHING holding the gear from moving forward. it is just the morse taper that has the gear locked to the I. P. shaft. get some good bolts and the gear will "pop" off the shaft. it only has to move .001" to be completely free of the shaft.

93-12Smoke

Never said there was anything holding it. In my experience it goes a lot easier if the pump is loose

BC847

Being that they are Helical gears, allowing nothing to turn . . . won't allow the IP gear to pull straight out. Such is further complicated due to the fact the IP gear is keyed to the IP input shaft.

Loosening the IP so as to allow it to rotate will facilitate removing the gear.

- When that boy is stuck on there GOOD, any little bit of help . . . helps.

Jim Lane

You need to borrow the 2 bolts.from the grid heaters to pull the pump, after you have the puller as tight as you think you cat get it smack the back of the puller bolt with a small sledge hammer, it just needs a shock to break it loose and it will pop loose, make sure to leave the nut on the shaft loose 3 or 4 threads.

Or a drift punch placed on the hub of the gear directly above the pump shaft then a few raps will free the shaft, it has to be under tension.

Try and have the key facing up and stuff a rag between the gear and the housing so nothing falls into the timing case.

This is just like separating a tie rod end instated of beating them to death.

Also be smart and keep your face and body parts from the puller in case it flys off the gear.

Jim

Exekiel69

That is exactly what I was thinking. Also make sure You put some rags under the gear to catch the keyway in case it falls before You get to it. You should also use a new lock washer and nut when You re-install the pump.

dan123dbl

Thanks everyone for the suggestions, didn't think it would be all that hard to get this thing loose! I'm just waiting to pick up a halfmoon wrench to get that rear nut off the IP. Hopefully it has enough curve for it to reach it.

Anyone know what size the support bracket bolts are? They look to be allen heads and they're on there pretty good as well ..

93-12Smoke

The bracket the goes from the pump to the block is what needs to be removed. I loosen the bolts on the block, remove the bottom one and lay that bracket back towards the firewall.

dan123dbl

Well I got everything off besides the pump from the drive gear. Sheared the bolt out of it. Gonna pickup some stronger bolts tomorrow and hopefully get the new pump in!