sootnsmoke

Looking for feedback, thoughts and suggested sources for it. With our older flat tappet cam motors and changes in oil compositions, seems like there might be a compelling reason to run the additives. Thoughts?

user name

I believe the C rated oils are better off than the S rated because they ran flat tappets much longer than gas. I could be wrong but I'm not worried about it yet. Also ZDDP builds up on metal parts so the older parts that were run with high zddp oil to last longer than new stuff. There are claims to the fact that modern S rated oils can be run after initial cam break in with all engines. Bottom line do whatever you feel good about.

thrashingcows

Yup I run some in my oil. Better safe then sorry....

BC847

I started running it with the recent install and break-in of the new cam.

Most any of the ZDDP supplement additives will work.

sootnsmoke

I was reading up a bit more on ZDDP and it appears the Boron additive is the modern day substitute for the EPA limited ZDDP in new oils. Just can't seem to find any reference as to how effective it is compared to ZDDP which has been reduced in current oils. Also, I haven't seen the ZDDP additive for sale locally. Have you guys been ordering online? Have you seen it at NAPA or any auto part stores?

For those interested I found some info in the link below. Of course, they make the additive so a grain of salt is required.

http://www.zddplus.com/TechBrief2%20...Oil%20Myth.pdf

apwatson50

I figure the cam has 300k miles on it now so it should be pretty well broken in by now. So I don't run any additive. Plus stock cam is pretty mild, not very aggressive. Although I am running the 60lb springs.

If I was running a new cam with a more aggressive lobe I would definitely run additive.

enafzige

I've run it before...the ZDDPlus that is. I always run a CI4+ oil though with high zinc and phosphorous anyway.

--Eric

sootnsmoke

Where are you finding the CI4+ oil? I looked for it recently and could not find it anywhere. Only could find current spec oil.

Rick 12v CTD

the 5 gallon pail of rotella t 1540 I bought last week was CI-4.

93flatbed

After I switched to T-6 I started putting a bottle of General Motors E.O.S. in each oil change.

sootnsmoke

I am going to make some calls and see if I can find some CI-4 + rated 15w-40 somewhere by me. I would prefer to just run CI-4 + with the higher Zinc and Phosphorus for flat tappet cams rather than run ZDDP additives in the CJ-4 oils I find everywhere. Where did you buy that CI-4 Rotella? Is it a CI-4 or CI-4 +?

Grey Wolf

I don't know if all Car Quest's have this but I asked for it and they got!

http://www.lucasoil.com/products/dis...how&headTitle= - Engine Break-In Oil Additive - TB Zinc Plus

There is a zip code retail locator provided by the web site..

sootnsmoke

Great option there. If I can't locate some CI4+ oil, I will look into getting that. How long have you been running it and how many bottles do you use with a 12 quart motor? It would be interesting to run an oil analysis after running it for a few thousand miles to see zinc and phosphorus PPM levels.

Grey Wolf

I don't personally use it but it comes in every cam that Shieds Diesel sends out. My friend has a shop and purchases from Schieds and asked me if he knew were he could purchase it locally. That's when I got my local CQ to handle it. I do know that Schieds asks one bottle per 12qts to used for the initial cam run in.

Rick 12v CTD

to be honest with you I'm not sure if it's ci-4 or ci-4+. More than likely ci-4+
And I bought it at walmart

Also as a side note, I ran amsoil series 3000 5w-30 full sythetic in my mess for just about 30k miles. Never changed the oil, never changed a filter (Had the cummins bypass system too though). When I took the motor apart about a month ago, everything still looked great. Bearings were all good, rings were fine. For a motor with just about 300k miles on it total it looked fantastic. Also, according to the amsoil website the series 3000 oil is a ci-4+ rated oil.

I put new rings and bearing in anyway. Didn't seem right pulling a motor apart to put it back together with the old stuff. Haisley rod and mains, cummins cam bushing and sealed power rings. All genuine cummins gaskets too.