I have a 1985 23' Prowler bumper pull and want to upgrade to something bigger. Not going new. I don't know if my truck will fit a 5th wheel or not since it is about 1" higher in the back than stock and I'm running 35" tires, so please advise me. I have some 265's I can put on if needed......they're on a spare set of wheels so no big deal. I want something with bunkbeds and a superslide. Large freshwater capacity is a plus. Something 1995 and newer. I already have a very capable generator, so no onboard gensets. What does everybody recommend and/or recommend to stay away from? Aluminum versus fiberglass siding? Rubber roof versus aluminum? Any other advice would be greatly appreciated, as well as any online sites. I am in Louisiana, but a few hundred miles to save a chunk of $$ is doable. I have already checked out PPL in houston. Thanks in advance.

Waylan

 

As far as height goes, on most 5th wheels the axles can be relocated from above the leaf spring pack to below, raising the body of the RV around 6".

You just buy the spring perches from a trailer parts place, and it is pretty straight forward. The perches are cheap enough that they aren't worth fabricating, and there is a center hole that locates on the bolt in the spring pack.

Roof wise, EDPM rubber membranes are supposed to last many, many years and I think they are a better deal than metal roofs of older units. They do need cleaned/treated once in a while to prevent black streaks by the gutter spouts. Products with petrolium distillates will attack EDPM, so you have to be careful what sealant, cleaners, or other chemicals have been on it. They are also suseptable to tears from low branches.

Still, you would be looking at a pretty old unit to get a metal roof.

As far as fiberglass vs metal, I guess it is a personal preferance. Fiberglass will be heavier, but I think it looks better, and it is supposed to provide additional sound/thermal insulation. Minor damage can be repaired fairly easily, unless it got hit endwise, or it delaminates.

Metal dents fairly easily, but doesn't have delamination problems.

 

Thanks Jeff. Surprised there weren't more opinions on RV's.

Waylan

 

Give us a chance - - you just posted at 5pm yesterday.

As noted previously, you can lift a fiver by axle flipping. You will be limited to weight with the 2500, but could probably support up to a 30'er or so. Be sure to look for something with 1 or 2 slides - - it makes a huge difference in living space. I would go for an aluminum framed unit with fiberglass exterior. The cheaper ones usually use a vacuum bonded wall. The only problem with those they can delaminate. So, you have to carefully walk the sides and look "down" the side to try and pick up any bulges. I highly recommend do not get a rear kitchen - - especially in an older rig with standard suspension.

Be sure to look at the ceilings carefully to find any leaking. Walk the roof carefully and watch for large delamination of the roofing. Rubber roof is good - - it normally has a life span of about 10 years pending care.

I would not look for anything around where you live - - too much storm damaged stuff around your area. Here is a link you might want to browse to get some ideas. Good luck.
Bob

http://www.rvsearch.com/findrv/index...filiateID-106/

 

Here is my two cents, and I have owned RV's since the early 70's.

I am on my second rubber roof on my motorhome. Contrary to the RV sales pitch, you cannot walk on them as it damages the rubber membrane, low hanging tree branches scrape them and that is just like stretching a rubber band and then pricking it with your fingernail - a hole will open up as soon as you hit highway speeds in an air temperature over 80 degrees - you will never find the hole but the water will. To clean them you go up on a tall step ladder (never walk on the roof) every time you use the RV and use a special cleaner and soft brush, then hose them off and recoat them with a preservative.

If you store a rubber roofed RV outside and live where it rains they have to be resealed around all the side flashings and roof penetrations each and every season because the rubber absorbs and holds heat and shrinks the sealant they use. I keep mine undercover except when used, and the sealant lasts several years between trips to the RV guy.

Look at the higher end RV's, such as Holiday Rambler. They use a white EDPM roof that is the best currently available. I bought a diesel pusher Fleetwood and the OEM rubber roof failed in the second year, it now has the EDPM membrane used by Holiday Rambler, and has been relatively trouble free - as long as I am careful.

I am unaware of any newer RV other than Airstream trailers and the high end bus conversions that still have aluminum roofs. You also have to be careful about aluminum roofs. There were some manufacturers that used an inferior aluminum back in the 90's, and those roofs would corrode right through anywhere there was anything mounted if they got wet. There were also some that used aluminum glued to plywood, and the glue ate the aluminum from inside out. If you do get a good aluminum roof, you hit it once every two years with Sharkhide aluminum boat treatment, and they look like new forever. You can also walk on the aluminum roof, you can drive under trees, you can install and use a working luggage rack on an aluminum roof as long as you seal the roof connections to avoid corrosion, and aluminum reflects heat and keeps the RV much cooler.

Avoid a fiberglass roof like the plague. They cook away in the sun, and are like doing deck maintenance on the Titanic. You simply cannot keep them waxed enough!

In hot climates a 5th wheel requires running the AC all the time to keep the upstairs cool enough to sleep while the downstairs guys are a bit too cool. In cold weather you run the heaters all the time and the upstairs is always too hot and the downstairs is too cold. The major advantages to a 5th wheel is that they have much better load balance and control for driving, and you can gain significant useful length in a package that is much shorter than with a bumper pull trailer. A 5th wheel also offers more privacy by its very design, and that is handy if you have children or guests.

On any towed RV carefully inspect the frame where the hitch attaches for evidence of metal fatigue. On a fifth wheel, new or used, have it hooked to a truck so it is hanging by the hitch with the landing gear lifted, then get six or eight good sized people to go in and walk around. Watch the area where the extended front part that reaches over the truck bed is attached to the main body. Sometimes you have to open gas bottle access doors to inspect the frame on a 5er, but do it! If there is any movement, forget that 5th wheel, as it means the frame is too weak at that juncture.

As far as siding is concerned, either aluminum or fiberglass is just fine as long as it is not a glued composite. Trailers and 5ft wheels get small dings all the time if you camp much. Look for a siding that is replaceable. Fiberglass siding requires more maintenance, and is frequently waxed just like a boat to keep it sealed and to avoid the drying of the volitile oils from the plastics. Aluminum siding can be waxed just like a car, and you do not have any problem with it checking or cracking from the weather.

Your biggest bug-a-boo will be the appliances like ranges, refridgerators, water heaters, and furnaces. They are no longer the quality of what was built in the 80's, and simply do not last as long. Everything is now made lighter to save weight.

The one inch lift on your truck should be easily overcome by axle relocation on any spring mounted trailer or 5th wheel. The torsion sprung RV's cannot be adjusted for height, so watch that.

Be aware that just about anything built in the last six or seven years will have the lowest cost available Chinese bearings and axles. So, just plan on replacing bearings as part of the deal.

If I were buying used, I would not let the year dictate my choice. There are some excellent buys on all rivited aluminum 5th wheels and trailers made by folks like Airstream and Holiday Rambler. Also, do not worry about something from a manufacturer that is no longer in the business if it is priced right and in excellent condition. Look for a retirement community and then visit their RV storage lot, look for "for sale" signs. You will find any number of older premium RV's being sold by folks that can no longer drive or tow them, and in many cases they are more interested in them going to someone that can really use them than in the money they get.

 

We have a rear kitchen model with stardard suspension and have had no problems at so I don't know why FiverBob recommends you not get one. I had the tires balanced and metal valve stems installed as soon as we got it and we do not have anything move in the kitchen area if that is what he is referring to. We leave a coffee maker on the kitchen counter and it never moves a inch nor does anything in the cabinets. I say get the floor plan you like and very carefully look the unit over for the other things mentioned here.