I can't figure out how to do what I want. My pop-up Truck camper does not come with a battery. It is factory wired that when I am connected to camper, it (camper) draws from my truck batteries. That's fine. Funny the power stays constant with key off though....but anyway, I was going to throw a dissconnect on the bat that feeds the trailer wiring harness voltage. Piece of cake, but I wonder how that truck would start if I only had a strong SINGLE battery?

1. Buy two Blue or yellow tops and put in truck? Then wire so that I can isolate that single battery?

2. Go through the trouble of finding space in the camper, rewire the entire system for a single battery?

3. Use the factory batteries (not RV types) and isolate one for the RV?

I like the idea of just adding two batteries (RV type) to the truck, How often would I really use my Pop-up anyway?? Would the trucks charging system bake the two Blue/yellow tops?

Man, I could really use some input on this....

 

Generally speaking, starting batteries perform poorly and don't last long if deep cycled very often. Conversly, most deep cycle batteries do not perform well when used for starting (super-high current for a short period of time).

If it were mine, I'd find a way to put in a couple of good deep cycles for the camper (maybe ahead of the wheel well?) and then I'd jump a relay into the trailer power circuit on the truck so it charges the deep cycles when the truck runs (or alternately install an isolator).

If you go with more than one battery, a pair of 6v's in series generally perform better than 12v in parallel. Trojan T105's are a good value in a flooded cell, or the Optima deep cycles are good performers for AGM.

 

My advice is to put a deep-cycle in the camper or truck bed and hook it to the truck with an automatic isolator. That way the truck charges the battery when it is running but the camper does not draw on the truck's starting batteries.

 

Mine is fairly simple, but it works for my cabover.

I'll post the pics as soon as they are approved.

 

This is a pic of the wire and fuse holder I connected at the battery. When the camper is not loaded or the truck is parked, I remove the fuse.



This is the electric welder cable type connector I put on it. If I'm going to have the truck/camper parked for awhile, I just unplug the connector since it's just outside the truck door.

 

I second, or third, or whatever putting a battery box on the tongue and installing two Trojan T-105's in it. If your battery is on the truck, I guarantee some day you will pull away some day and forget to unhook. There is no complicated rewiring to do at all.

 

True Bob, been there and done that.

What I like about mine is that I can charge the battery no matter where I am.

 

Thanks Guys!

I decided that I have room for a single battery sideways. I know the wet batteries can't be mounted sideways...That would probably mean the best choice may be a Blue top or yellow top. There is really only lighting, water pump, and CO2, and propane sniffer alarm that draw power. Everything else is propane. I feel a single good battery may be the ticket. The truck's batteries may be a good emergency. I agree about the RV types not being so great for trucks charging systems.

I am really suprised that the 12v charge line on the Dodges' stays hot with the key off. My 97 & 98 did that too. I figured by now, they'd do what everyone else does and kills power when the key is off. I'll have to find a way to add a solenoid. I used to know the spot on the 97/98. Does anyone know where the 12v line is under the hood that goes to the harness in back?

Tom

 

Tom,

I think most any AGM battery (including Optima) will tolerate being mounted sideways. AGM's are handy in that you don't have to add water and they have a significantly longer expected useful life, but they are also usually about twice the price, amp hour per amp hour.

Anyway, the Optima deep cycle would be a good choice. Trojan also makes sealed AGM deep cycles of various shapes and sizes.

Does the camper have a fan driven furnace? If used in below freezing weather that will likely be the thing that draws a lot of 12v power.

 

jeff-

Great point. Yes it does, but I have learned after two other campers, not to use it. I will likely install a wave 6 heater and just run off propane. Your right about the ability to drive the batteries empty quick, using that forced air heater. I could never get used to the darn noise. Nope, won't use it.

I have heard too many happy campers with the Wave heater. I am thinking a wave 6 would be size appropriate. (being a popup too)

Tom

 

Yeah, lots of folks use those to reduce both electric and fuel consumption.

As long as it is a quality unit in good condition, and you have a high quality CO2 alarm...

One battery should drive your water pump and occasional light use for several days...

 

Wave 6 rocks!

I use one to heat my 25' TT. Best investment to save power.

 

I guess you would be surprised to find out that none of the big three have isolation solenoids on the hot line unless it is something very new. They are easy to install and run about $20. I had one on my last truck, but did not install one on this one.

 

Excuse my ignorance (and this hijack) but what is a wave 6 heater? Sounds like something that I need to learn about.
Thanks in advance

 

http://www.ducktec.com/wave6.htm