Towing problems
#1
Towing problems
I've been having a problem with the rear end porpoising and swaying more then I would like. Here's my setup:
95 2500 4x4
285/75/16 on stock steel rims
10k Equilizer hitch with 1k bars
I tow a 29ft car hauler, 1 foot extra height, V-nose. Without a car it is about 5500lb's and tows ok.
When I load a car and the weights gets to 9k or so the rear end porpoises and sways a bit. I've tried adjusting the hitch and the load for more/less tongue weight. Still does it.
I've tried this trailer with a 02 ford 350 and it has no problems.
Any ideas?
Should I add airbags? Which ones would fit with the 285's and 4" exhaust?
Thanks for your help.
95 2500 4x4
285/75/16 on stock steel rims
10k Equilizer hitch with 1k bars
I tow a 29ft car hauler, 1 foot extra height, V-nose. Without a car it is about 5500lb's and tows ok.
When I load a car and the weights gets to 9k or so the rear end porpoises and sways a bit. I've tried adjusting the hitch and the load for more/less tongue weight. Still does it.
I've tried this trailer with a 02 ford 350 and it has no problems.
Any ideas?
Should I add airbags? Which ones would fit with the 285's and 4" exhaust?
Thanks for your help.
#2
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Air bags might help. Should be no clearance issues. I have the bags from firestone and they came with a heat shield for my exhaust (4"). Not really that close though anyway. The airbags mount inboard of the leaves, so tire clearance isn't even a consideration. Some of your swaying could be due to the rim width vs. tire width. Those tires belong on a wider rim and could be the root of the problem. Check your shocks too...maybe time to upgrade to some bigger bilsteins??
#3
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The fact that it tows fine empty, and loaded on the ford indicate there are no inherent issues with the trailer/axle layout.
Try varying load position of the car in/on the trailer. You may have it too far forward which could be too heavy on the tongue, or too rearward, which could be too light on the tongue.
If that is the issue, be prepared to paint or install stop so that the car goes back into the same position.
Let us know how it goes.
Tony
Try varying load position of the car in/on the trailer. You may have it too far forward which could be too heavy on the tongue, or too rearward, which could be too light on the tongue.
If that is the issue, be prepared to paint or install stop so that the car goes back into the same position.
Let us know how it goes.
Tony
#4
I was wondering about the tires as I typed it. I remember when I bought them Discount tire told me they were to small for the rim. I thought they were just trying to sell me wheels? Maybe I should start here instead of airbags.
Any recommendations on cheap replacements? What is the ideal width and backspace for a 285/75/16 on a '95 4x4?
I will also check the shocks.
I have moved the car forward and rearward with some effect. To far back, and it sway city. To far forward and it porpoises. Can't seem to find a happy middle ground where it settles both out with the Dodge.
Thanks for the ideas, Keep them coming, I appreciate them.
Any recommendations on cheap replacements? What is the ideal width and backspace for a 285/75/16 on a '95 4x4?
I will also check the shocks.
I have moved the car forward and rearward with some effect. To far back, and it sway city. To far forward and it porpoises. Can't seem to find a happy middle ground where it settles both out with the Dodge.
Thanks for the ideas, Keep them coming, I appreciate them.
#5
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if possible put the car in the car hauler where it was before and check the tongue weight. is it possible the trailer tongue was to heavy for the 2500 but ok for the 1 ton? depending on the tongue weight air bags may help, i used to have them but took them off because i didn't like how they mounted but now they have different brackets...i had the air lift brand.
#6
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Most tire manufacturers recommend a 7.5-9.5" rim for those tires. 8 or 9 inches would be great. Look around on ebay and you might find a set of newer take offs. Mine are from an 02 2500 dodge, they take a little bit of clearancing, but fit very well in the end. I believe they are 16x8.
#7
Thanks for the replies.
I'm going to wait on the airbags. I have adjustable rancho shocks on the rear, I need to check them.
So what year(s) take off wheels will fit on my truck with the 285's? I see Johnx has 2002. What clearancing needs to be done?
Does anyone have a picture of these wheels mounted on a earlier 2nd gen?
I'm going to wait on the airbags. I have adjustable rancho shocks on the rear, I need to check them.
So what year(s) take off wheels will fit on my truck with the 285's? I see Johnx has 2002. What clearancing needs to be done?
Does anyone have a picture of these wheels mounted on a earlier 2nd gen?
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#9
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Also I think you can use 3rd gen wheels but they are 17 inch. The alum ones are 17x8 and you can run a 285 tire on them, but you'll have to get new tires .
Are your tires E or D rated? If they are D rated (probably) they are gonna sway.
Are your tires E or D rated? If they are D rated (probably) they are gonna sway.
#10
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I really doubt that shocks will make it sway and it seems to me that everyone has forgot about one of the most important things that affect how a bumper hitch trailer trails. HITCH HEIGHT!!!!! It is also something that would have changed when you loaded the trailer and could have been different with the Ford.
#11
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I think the wheels you want are the early 24v wheels. 99-02ish?
Two options on the wheel clearance.
A. Run 1.5 inch spacers front and rear. Cost $$$. This will also widen your stance which will be good for stability, but the tires might stick out a tad.
B. Machine outside of rear drums to clear the wheels...only have to take off about 1/8-1/4" (this is for a 13 inch drum, your 95 could have a smaller drum and may not need any work). Also need to spend some time with a disc sander on the front steering linkage and tie rod ends. Trial fit often and don't take off more than needed. Much cheaper and took me about 3 hours start to finish (including getting the drums machined). I am a mechanic and have air tools, so you can adjust your time according to your skill level.
Don't just assume its the tire now....still a good idea to check out all the other stuff mentioned above.
Two options on the wheel clearance.
A. Run 1.5 inch spacers front and rear. Cost $$$. This will also widen your stance which will be good for stability, but the tires might stick out a tad.
B. Machine outside of rear drums to clear the wheels...only have to take off about 1/8-1/4" (this is for a 13 inch drum, your 95 could have a smaller drum and may not need any work). Also need to spend some time with a disc sander on the front steering linkage and tie rod ends. Trial fit often and don't take off more than needed. Much cheaper and took me about 3 hours start to finish (including getting the drums machined). I am a mechanic and have air tools, so you can adjust your time according to your skill level.
Don't just assume its the tire now....still a good idea to check out all the other stuff mentioned above.
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#13
I really doubt that shocks will make it sway and it seems to me that everyone has forgot about one of the most important things that affect how a bumper hitch trailer trails. HITCH HEIGHT!!!!! It is also something that would have changed when you loaded the trailer and could have been different with the Ford.
What's the best way to adjust the hitch height with an equalizer hitch?
Thanks for the wheel info. If I can find a reasonable price, I'll get 'em!