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RV Woes - Onan Marquis Gold 5500 Problems

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Old Nov 9, 2015 | 06:03 PM
  #16  
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From: Udaho
Two six-volt golf-cart batteries and a solar panel on the roof = never need a generator again

(unless you go into the back-country to watch TV or something).
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Old Nov 9, 2015 | 06:30 PM
  #17  
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I was waiting for that response from someone..... Try to ask a question about generators on an RV forum and you have to beat the solar guys from chiming in.
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Old Nov 9, 2015 | 08:51 PM
  #18  
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I have 2 group 27 farm store deep cycle batteries, 125 AH each. It's about the same amount of storage as golf cart batteries at 60% of the money. They just barely shoehorn in with marine battery boxes.

If I'm boondocking in the cold and the 12v water system rescue heaters kick in, I need a generator in the morning. It has to hit 33° under the trailer to do that.
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Old Nov 16, 2015 | 12:32 AM
  #19  
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From: Somewhere between Here & There Over the Hill
Originally Posted by KATOOM
Yes, I believe when I installed the fuel pump there was a metal filter you screw on the pump, and there is also a metal filter screwed to a 90* fitting on the carb. A plugged filter would allow the engine to run under no load, unless it was really plugged up whereby it would possibly act like you described. That said, I'd certainly replace the one on the fuel pump first since it would seem obvious that its going to plug before the second carb filter.

Just the other day I ran my gen, as I do about every 2 months for around 15-30 min, and you can clearly feel the fuel pump when priming but yes, its hard to tell if its running when the generator is running. I guess to be absolutely sure I could check voltage to the pumps wire connectors. But in all the years I've worked on engines this would be one of the only I've ran across where the fuel pump doesnt run full time. Its just not logical to think that Onan would rely on gravity to feed the engine enough fuel. Especially with the multitude of variables they would be out of control with installation from the trailer manufactures regarding the fuel cell placement, lines, etc... Onan provides a stand alone system, which in my book would mean a fuel pump capable of supplying that system without other variables involved.
We decided to take the trailer out today so the kids could ride their dirt bikes and also gave me a chance to work on the generator some more. I replaced both filters and both spark plugs. The fuel pump primed the system right away, but sounded a bit weird doing so. It started right up and ran for a few minutes then shut down....so I think I'm starting to lean towards a fuel pump now...if it isn't that, I guess a new carb.

I don't even know why I would have said the fuel pump would shut off once the gen started....not logical at all as there is no way for it to be gravity fed with the fuel tank being about 15 feet or so away. There was something else I had read about on the trailer that shuts off, but can't recall what it was now.

The codes I got this go around was 36, 37, and 41 (not all at the same time)...which the service manual shows, after testing loads and windings, fuel pump or carb adjustments/replacement.
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Old Nov 16, 2015 | 12:37 AM
  #20  
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From: Somewhere between Here & There Over the Hill
Originally Posted by SOhappy
Two six-volt golf-cart batteries and a solar panel on the roof = never need a generator again

(unless you go into the back-country to watch TV or something).
I have 4 - Trojan T-105 batteries, no solar panels...yet.

We don't necessarily need the generator except during the summer when it is blazing hot out. We prefer mostly back-country, primitive camping.
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Old Nov 16, 2015 | 12:45 AM
  #21  
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From: Somewhere between Here & There Over the Hill
Originally Posted by j_martin
I have 2 group 27 farm store deep cycle batteries, 125 AH each. It's about the same amount of storage as golf cart batteries at 60% of the money. They just barely shoehorn in with marine battery boxes.

If I'm boondocking in the cold and the 12v water system rescue heaters kick in, I need a generator in the morning. It has to hit 33° under the trailer to do that.
Thanks for intriguing me on something else to look into buying need to look into those water system rescue heaters...when we went up to Utah a couple weekends ago, there was quite a bit of snow (not where we camped, but definitely around), so I was a bit worried that the lines would freeze.

Our batteries held up great running the heater at about 65 degs all night...kept the kids comfy. Heck we even had to turn it down a bit. When I got up that morning, the batteries still showed as having a full charge (judged by the LEDs on the control panel--forgot my multimeter).
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Old Dec 5, 2015 | 06:51 PM
  #22  
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From: Somewhere between Here & There Over the Hill
Replaced the fuel pump and same symptoms

I guess our next step is a new carb?

Not sure what else it would be.

Code 37 multiple times (after running a couple minutes then shutting down), then after it decided to not start anymore, back to code 36.
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Old Dec 6, 2015 | 10:16 AM
  #23  
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From: Cochrane Alberta
Did you check the oil level?

I did a quick google search and code 36 seems to be indicative of something fuel related carb, etc.

Code 37 seemed to indicate a problem in the generator side of things. Anything from a slipping belt to bad windings.

Try doing some google search on that model and those codes and see if you can find a service manual or at least an accurate description of the fault codes.
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Old Dec 6, 2015 | 10:49 AM
  #24  
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From: Somewhere between Here & There Over the Hill
RV Woes - Onan Marquis Gold 5500 Problems

Yeah, I have the service manuals.

From looking online it seems with either of those codes it could be anything from fuel to electrical. I think Rocky Mountain Cummins services these, so I may just schedule to drop it off after the new year. These generators run great until something goes wrong, then it's a pain to troubleshoot.
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Old Dec 6, 2015 | 12:15 PM
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To bad..... Well the only other potential culprit item I can think of, which is easy to confirm, is the fuel cutoff solenoid located at the bottom of the fuel bowl. If that solenoid is faulty then will shut off fuel supply to the engine. It retracts when energized and then when you shut the engine off it pops out and cuts off fuel.

You can remove it from the bowl and try connecting it to 12 volts and seeing if it will move. If it does then while you're at the carb, remove the bowl and assure yourself that the float is moving and the main jet is clear.

Other than that, I dont know what else would cause your running issue without getting more involved and more expensive.
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Old Dec 6, 2015 | 05:40 PM
  #26  
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From: Somewhere between Here & There Over the Hill
Thanks for the info regarding the fuel cutoff. Next time I'm out at the storage lot I'll try testing that solenoid and checking the float and jet. I think we are done traveling until the springtime, so I'll have plenty of time to troubleshoot before I end up taking it in for repair. Going through the fuel system section of the service manual now; there is more to service on the carb then I thought. Reading on various troubleshooting threads, it seemed like carb issues required carb replacement.
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Old Dec 6, 2015 | 05:57 PM
  #27  
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Lots of carb issues result in full replacement simply because most people dont know what to look for, and carbs can be too complicated. So full replacements are easier for most.

But that said, letting these generators sit for months on end is NEVER good. A couple months of sitting and even if you have Sta-Bil in the fuel, it will build up some fuel tarnish on and inside the small orifices which will then end up with poor starting/running conditions. I HIGHLY suggest going down to your storage yard every month or two and starting the generator for about 10-15 minutes. And also, dont forget to stick a bowl of water in the microwave for a couple minute of microwave run time, or running the electric hot water heater, or running the AC. Either of those will work because you want to not only run the generator "engine" but also the "generator" itself by forcing it to generator electricity. That way it too gets warm and burns off condensation inside the wiring. Then.....after giving it that short run time, dont shut it down right after a hard electrical load but rather let it run for a few minutes to allow both the engine and generator to cool a little.

Generators which are never used or used too infrequently are the ones which will have the most starting/running problems.
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Old Dec 6, 2015 | 06:02 PM
  #28  
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From: Somewhere between Here & There Over the Hill
Well, looks like I may just order a new fuel cutoff solenoid. According to the manual:

If the engine
does not start because it is not getting fuel, but
fuel can be drained from the carburetor float bowl,
the solenoid probably is not opening and should be
replaced.
That is exactly what I'm experiencing. I'll look into ordering that tonight.
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Old Dec 6, 2015 | 06:08 PM
  #29  
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Keep the thread updated.
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Old Dec 6, 2015 | 06:11 PM
  #30  
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From: Somewhere between Here & There Over the Hill
Cool! Thanks for the tips--especially for the load, I don't know if I would have done that had you not mentioned it! I fully plan on taking monthly trips down to lot to start it once I get it running. I had planned on doing that anyhow, but it ended up sitting inside of BRC's shop for 10-12 weeks waiting for a new awning and ladder. The insurance wasn't gonna let me have it back until it was all together again, so I didn't have access to it. I guess in hindsight, I have a pretty good relationship with them and I'm sure they would have started it up for me, just didn't think about it.
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